Wind Turbine FAQs

    • Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
    • Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
    • Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
    • Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
    1. The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
    2. Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
    1. No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
    2. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
    • You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
    • The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.

  • Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:

    • 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
    • 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
    • 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
    • When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
    1. If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
    • The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
    • Yes, you need one.
    • Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
    • Why a Horizontal is Louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
    • Why a Vertical is Usually Quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
    1. What we won't Tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
    2. The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
    • On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
    • It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
    • Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
    1. The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
    • A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
    • No — small turbines are built to spin fast. The smaller the rotor, the faster it has to turn to keep its blade tips up with the wind: the M-400's 1.35 m rotor runs at about 800 rpm, the M-600 and M-800 at about 500, the big G-series at 300.
    • In the manufacturer's words, the high rpm is a design necessity, not a defect. A slower generator would need a bigger stator and more magnets and copper — heavier and dearer.
    • They start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and make power right across the wind range — just less when the wind is light. What you get depends on your site and how high you mount it.
    • Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
    1. Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

    The Correct Order:

    • 1. Wind Turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
    • 2. Hybrid or Wind Charge Controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
    • 3. Battery Bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
    • 4. Off-Grid Inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.

    Why you Cannot Skip the Battery:

    1. Unstable Voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
    2. Turbine Damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
    1. This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
    • It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
    • Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
    • Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.

  • It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.

    Quick Checks — Tick as You Go

    • Is the Meter Set to AC Volts (V~)?
    • Does it Spin Freely Once Disconnected from the Controller?
    • Is the Cable from the Mast Heavy Enough for the Run?

    1. The Multimeter is Set to DC — The Most Common Mistake.

    1. Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
    • Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).

    2. The Turbine is Stalling Because of a Short.

    1. The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
    • Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.

    3. Voltage Drop from Thin Cable.

    1. Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
    • Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
    • The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
    • A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
    • Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
    • As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
    • Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
    1. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
    • Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
    • It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
    • See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting Guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
    • Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
    • Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
    • Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
    • Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
    • See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.
1 12

M10 4 Post Heavy Duty 12-48V 600 Amp Bus Bar

$97.95 AUD
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One Clean Landing Point for Four Heavy Cables.

Every 12V, 24V or 48V build reaches the same moment. The controller, the inverter, the battery bank and a couple of loads all want to meet in one place, so they end up stacked on a battery post — three lugs under one nut, none of them torqued properly. It works until a corrugated road shakes one loose. Then you are on your back under the canopy with a torch, chasing a joint that has gone warm.

This is a four-post bus bar with M10 studs, rated by the supplier at 600A continuous DC and up to 48V DC, under a removable cover. Four heavy cables land on their own stud, each one done up properly, with the cover back on so a dropped spanner cannot bridge two of them.

Single Bars or a Red + Black Pair. Pick Red or Black for one bus bar, or the Red + Black Pair for one of each — the usual positive and negative. The pair is two separate bars and may arrive in two parcels.

Rated to 48V DC, So it Suits 12V, 24V and 48V Systems. One bar for whichever battery bank you run. Just size your cable for your voltage (see below).

What it Solves
  • No More Stacked Lugs on a Battery Post: three heavy cables under one nut is how you get a hot joint. Land them here and the battery post carries one clean connection.
  • One Bar for Any Common Battery Bank: rated to 48V DC, so the same bar suits a 12V ute, a 24V truck or a 48V off-grid bank.
  • Nothing Shorts Across the Studs: the cover clips over the terminals, which matters in a battery box or an engine bay where tools get put down in odd places.
  • Find a Fault in Minutes: when every heavy cable meets in one place you lift a cover and look, instead of tracing wire through a canopy.
  • Room for the Load you Add Next: four posts means the next inverter or winch circuit has somewhere to go without rebuilding the run.
Key Features
  • 600A Continuous DC: the supplier's rating. Read the honest note on conductor thickness in the Q & A before you size a system around it.
  • Four M10 Studs: four heavy ring lugs, each on its own stud.
  • Rated to 48V DC: supplier stated, so it suits 12V, 24V and 48V systems.
  • Tin-Plated Pure Copper Bar: supplier stated. Plating is what keeps a joint from going green and then going hot.
  • Polycarbonate Base, ABS Cover: supplier stated. The seller calls the cover fireproof but publishes no flammability class, so we do not quote one.
  • Removable Cover: moulded cut-outs let the cables out the front while the terminals stay covered.
  • Compact Footprint: 179 x 51 mm base, 55 mm tall with the cover on, so it fits a battery box lid or a bulkhead.
  • Mounting Screws in the Box: ten self-tapping screws are shown supplied with each unit, four base holes to fix it down.
  • Red, Black or a Pair: pick the colour that matches the side you are wiring, or take the Red + Black Pair for both sides.
  • Delivery: Free Standard Delivery, 5 to 10 working days from the day you order. Allow 1–2 days for fulfilment. Regional and remote addresses can take longer.
What Else you'll Need

A bus bar distributes power. It does not protect anything, and on its own it is half a job. Here is what usually goes around it:

What we do Not Cover for you: cable sizing. It depends on your run length, your voltage and your actual current draw, and nobody can size it for you from a product page. Work it out against your own run or ask your sparky. If you are building 12V or 24V, the current is higher for the same power, so the cable sizing changes again.

Technical electrical equipment — turbines, controllers and distribution gear like this — should be installed by a qualified person. Keep the electrician's invoice: our returns position on electrical goods asks for proof of professional installation.

Q & A

Do I Get One Bus Bar or Two?
One if you pick Red or Black. Two if you pick the Red + Black Pair: one red and one black bar, the usual positive and negative. The pair may arrive in two parcels.

What Torque do the M10 Studs Take?
Not specified by supplier. Do not lean on it with a long spanner. A stud that has been over-tightened either strips or distorts the bar, and neither shows up until the joint gets hot under load. If your ring lug or nut maker publishes a torque, work to that.

The Studs are Marked M10 and Also 3/8-16. Which is it?
The seller's listing says M10 in its title and 3/8 inch in its description, and they are not the same thread — 3/8 inch is 9.5 mm, M10 is 10 mm. The store sells it as M10 and the option list says M10. Either will pass through a 10 mm ring lug hole, so for lugs it makes no practical difference. If you intend to run your own nut onto a stud, check the thread on arrival before you buy hardware for it.

How Thick is the Conductor Bar, and is 600A Real?
Not specified by supplier. That is the honest answer and it matters, because conductor cross-section is what actually sets a current rating — not the number printed on the box. 600A continuous DC is the supplier's figure and we have not seen a conductor size behind it. Our 400A bus bar publishes 8 mm tinned copper and the 500A publishes 6 mm pure copper; this one says tin-plated pure copper but gives no thickness. Size your system on your cable and your breakers, and treat the 600A as headroom rather than a design limit.

The Supplier's Drawing Also Shows AC Figures. Do they Apply?
The supplier lists 300V AC and 545A AC alongside the DC ratings. We sell this as a DC part for 12V to 48V systems, and no certificate has been sighted for the AC figures. If you need a mains-voltage AC rating, this is not the part.

Can I Use it on a 12V or 24V System?
Yes. The supplier rates it to 48V DC, and 12V and 24V sit inside that, so it suits all three. Check your cable sizing for your voltage: at 12V the current is four times what it is at 48V for the same power, so the cable has to be heavier.

Does it Come with a Fuse or Breaker, and is it Waterproof?
No to both. A bus bar distributes, it does not protect — you still need a breaker or isolator on each circuit and a main battery breaker. No ingress rating is specified by supplier. The cover keeps fingers, spanners and falling debris off the terminals; do not treat it as sealed, and do not mount it where it will sit in water.

Specs

Some of the photos show the original maker's drawing and captions. The figures in this table are our current supplier's, and where the two differ, this table is the one we go by.

Product Type DC Power Distribution Bus Bar, Four Post
Supplied as Red or Black: One Bus Bar. Red + Black Pair: Two Bus Bars (one of each)
Max Continuous Current 600A DC (Supplier Stated)
System Voltage 12V, 24V or 48V DC (Rated to 48V DC Max, Supplier Stated)
AC Figures Listed by the Supplier 300V AC / 545A AC also listed by the supplier. Sold here as a DC part for 12V to 48V — no certificate sighted for the AC figures
Terminal Studs 4 x M10
Stud Thread Marking Seller lists both "M10" and "3/8 in" (9.5 mm). Check the thread before buying loose nuts
Stud Spacing Not Specified by Supplier
Stud Torque Not Specified by Supplier
Stud Material Not Specified by Supplier
Conductor Bar Material Pure Copper (Supplier Stated)
Conductor Thickness / Cross-Section Not specified by supplier — this is what sets a real current rating, so treat the 600A figure accordingly
Conductor Plating Tin-Plated (Supplier Stated)
Cable Size Compatibility Not specified by supplier — set by the M10 ring lug that fits
Base & Cover Material Polycarbonate base, ABS cover (supplier stated). The seller calls it fireproof; no flammability class specified by supplier
Cover Removable, with Moulded Cable Cut-Outs Over the Studs
Base Footprint 179 x 51 mm
Cover Length 182 mm
Overall Height 55 mm
Base Thickness 13 mm
Mounting Four base holes for 1/4 in (6.35 mm) screws; ten self-tapping screws shown supplied with each unit
Auxiliary Screw Terminals Small screw terminals sit at the ends of the bar. Count and rating not specified by supplier
Colours Red, Black, or a Red + Black Pair
Ingress Rating Not Specified by Supplier
Weight 716 g (Supplier Stated)
Circuit Protection None Included — Fit your Own Breakers & Isolators
Applications 12V, 24V and 48V off-grid solar and wind, battery banks, marine, RV, truck, 4x4

Watch Me

The short video in the photo gallery shows the bar with its cover lifted off. If you are wiring an off-grid system, these two guides cover the sequence and the hazards:

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Wind Turbine FAQs

    • Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
    • Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
    • Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
    • Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
    1. The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
    2. Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
    1. No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
    2. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
    • You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
    • The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.

  • Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:

    • 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
    • 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
    • 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
    • When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
    1. If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
    • The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
    • Yes, you need one.
    • Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
    • Why a Horizontal is Louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
    • Why a Vertical is Usually Quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
    1. What we won't Tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
    2. The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
    • On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
    • It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
    • Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
    1. The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
    • A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
    • No — small turbines are built to spin fast. The smaller the rotor, the faster it has to turn to keep its blade tips up with the wind: the M-400's 1.35 m rotor runs at about 800 rpm, the M-600 and M-800 at about 500, the big G-series at 300.
    • In the manufacturer's words, the high rpm is a design necessity, not a defect. A slower generator would need a bigger stator and more magnets and copper — heavier and dearer.
    • They start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and make power right across the wind range — just less when the wind is light. What you get depends on your site and how high you mount it.
    • Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
    1. Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

    The Correct Order:

    • 1. Wind Turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
    • 2. Hybrid or Wind Charge Controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
    • 3. Battery Bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
    • 4. Off-Grid Inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.

    Why you Cannot Skip the Battery:

    1. Unstable Voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
    2. Turbine Damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
    1. This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
    • It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
    • Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
    • Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.

  • It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.

    Quick Checks — Tick as You Go

    • Is the Meter Set to AC Volts (V~)?
    • Does it Spin Freely Once Disconnected from the Controller?
    • Is the Cable from the Mast Heavy Enough for the Run?

    1. The Multimeter is Set to DC — The Most Common Mistake.

    1. Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
    • Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).

    2. The Turbine is Stalling Because of a Short.

    1. The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
    • Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.

    3. Voltage Drop from Thin Cable.

    1. Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
    • Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
    • The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
    • A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
    • Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
    • As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
    • Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
    1. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
    • Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
    • It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
    • See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting Guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
    • Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
    • Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
    • Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
    • Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
    • See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.

You Might Also Need

  • Free Delivery

    Excluding Some Wind Turbines

  • 10–14 Days From Order

    Allow Up to 3 Weeks for Remote Areas

  • Simple & Easy Tracking

    Updates to Your Phone

  • A Real Person Replies

    Covered by Australian Consumer Law

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