48V TO 12V Voltage Reducer DC DC Step Up - Down Converter

Regular priceFrom $60.00 AUD
Color:

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Delivery and Shipping

free shipping

 

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Processing Times

  • Pick & Pack: We aim to process and dispatch all orders within 24 hours (Monday to Friday).
  • Weekends: Orders placed on weekends or public holidays will be processed the next business day.
  • Delivery Estimates Once your order is dispatched, standard delivery typically takes 8–10 working days.
  • Regional Areas: Please allow a little extra time for delivery to remote or rural locations.

Order Tracking As soon as your order leaves the warehouse, you will receive a Shipping Confirmation email containing your tracking number. You can use this to follow your package’s journey to your door.

Our Satisfaction Promise Your satisfaction is our priority. We strive for high standards of excellence and aim for 100% customer satisfaction.

Features

Suitable for everything from Vehicles, Homes to Caravans & Boats

The Daygreen 48V to 12V DC/DC Buck Converter offers precise voltage reduction with high efficiency and reliability. Certified to CE and RoHS standards, it features IP68-rated enclosures for robust protection and free air convection cooling. With output currents ranging from 5A to 60A and power up to 720W, it supports various applications requiring stable 12V output. The converter maintains tight voltage accuracy (±1.5%), line and load regulation (±0.2%), and a low temperature coefficient (±0.03%/°C), ensuring consistent performance in demanding environments. Weighing 500g, it is a compact and durable solution for automotive and industrial power management.

INSTALLATION STEPS

Specs

THREE TERMINAL WIRING:

Input + to Battery +, Input- to Ground.

Output + to Load +, Output- to Ground.

FOUR TERMINAL WIRING:

Input + to Battery +, Input- to Battery-.

Output + to Load +, Output- to Load -.

FIVE TERMINAL WIRING:

ACC is a state in which the car can still listen to songs and air conditioners without a fire, mainly to achieve energy saving and emission reduction.

At the same time, this is equivalent to a switch, when the switch is off, the converter does not work.

ACC to Switch/Ignition

Input + to Battery +, Input- to Battery-.

Output + to Load +, Output- to Load-.

If no need the ACC function, then use clamp insert ACC and INPUT+

Description

Wide input voltage from 30 to 60V

Stable output voltage is 12V

100% full rated power

100% full stable output current

100% burn-in test

High-efficiency up to 95%

Waterproof sealed

Air convection cooling

Surface mountable

Over-current, over-voltage protections

Over-temperature

According to: EN 50498:2010 IP68


12V/24V TO 5V 3A

12V/24V TO 5V 5A

12V/24V TO 5V 10A

12V/24V TO 5V 10A Plus

12V/24V TO 5V 15A Plus

12V/24V TO 5V 20A

12V/24V TO 5V 30A

12V 24V/TO 5V 40A

12V/24V TO 5V 50A

12V/24V TO 6V 10A

24V TO 5V 100A

24V TO 5V 10A

24V TO 5V 15A

12V/24V TO 5V 15A


24V TO 12V 1.5A

24V TO 12V 2A

24V TO 12V 3A

24V TO 12V 5A

24V TO 12V 20A

24V TO 12V 5A 10A

24V TO 12V 30A

24V TO 12V 30A Plus

24V TO 12V 40A

24V TO 12V 40A Plus

24V TO 12V 50A

24V TO 12V 50A Plus

24V TO 12V 60A

24V TO 12V 60A Plus

24V TO 12V 80A 85A

24V TO 12V 120A

24V TO 12V 150A

24V TO 12V 165A

24V TO 12V 200A


24V TO 13.8V 20A

24V TO 13.8V 30A

24V TO 13.8V 80A 85A

24V TO 13.8V 100A


24V TO 13.8V 120A


24V 36V 48V TO 12V 5A

36V 48V TO 12V 8A

36V 48V TO 12V 10A

36V 48V TO 12V 15A

36V 48V TO 12V 20A

36V 48V TO 12V 30A

36V 48V TO 12V 30A Plus




36V TO 12V 8A

36V TO 12V 10A

36V TO 12V 15A

36V TO 12V 20A

36V TO 12V 30A

48V TO 12V 5A

48V TO 12V 8A

48V TO 12V 10A

48V TO 12V 15A

48V TO 12V 20A

48V TO 12V 30A





48V TO 24V 5A

48V TO 24V 10A




30-90V TO 12V 13.8V 10A

40-90V TO 12V 13.8V 20A

40-90V TO 12V 15A



8-40V TO 12V 3A

8-40V TO 12V 6A

8-40V TO 12V 10A






model

input voltage range

(Vdc)

output

voltage

(Vdc)

output current

(A)

output power max

(W)

ripple and noise (mVp-p)

efficiency

typ

( % )

Dimension

(mm)

Net Weight

(g)

Warranty

Function

B05-234-12

18-60

12

5

60

120

93

66*59*24

280

1 year


B10-3648-12

30-60

12

10

120

120

93

74*74*31

280

1 year


B20-3648-12

30-60

12

20

240

120

94

74*74*31

650

1 year


B30-3648-12A

30-60

12

30

360

120

94

100*80*39

500

1 year

With Fuse

B30-48-12

40-60

12

30

360

150

94

130*80*50

650

1 year


A4D12C40

30-60

12

40

480

150

95

100*113*35

650

3 years

ACC

B50-3648-12

30-60

12

50

600

150

94

150*127*63

1600

1 year


B60-3648-12

30-60

12

60

720

150

94

150*127*63

1600

1 year


B10-3648-13R8

30-60

13.8

10

138

150

94

74*74*31

280

1 year


B20-3648-13R8

30-60

13.8

20

276

150

94

74*74*31

280

1 year


A4D13R8C30

30-60

13.8

30

414

150

95

160*113*35

1000

3 years

ACC

A4D13R8C60

30-60

13.8

60

828

150

95

160*113*35

1000

3 years

ACC

 
 

 

Payment & Security

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Wind Turbine FAQ

  • Summary Checklist for Your Choice

    Choose the SR or ST-1200W if you want portability, low noise, and minimal investment for camping or caravans.

    Choose the ST-2000, ST-3000, or ST-5000 if you have a stationary house/cabin and want to supplement solar panels at night.

    Choose the ST-10kW or 20kW if you have heavy agricultural power needs, acreage, and a budget for proper mast engineering.

    The vertical axis wind turbines listed on the BushLine Outdoor Equipment catalog are categorized by physical design shapes, which dictate their ideal applications.

  • No.Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will instantly destroy your equipment. Youmustwire the turbine into a dedicatedWind/Solar Hybrid MPPT Controller with an integrated Dump Load Resistor. The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.

  • You must match the turbine and its hybrid controller to the exact voltage of your existing battery bank:

    • 12V: Best for compact mobile setups like caravans, 4WDs, and camper trailers.
    • 24V: Great for medium-sized setups like off-grid sheds, cabins, and motorhomes.
    • 48V: The gold standard for full off-grid home systems. Higher voltage means less energy loss through your wires and allows you to use thinner, safer cables.
  • When your battery bank becomes 100% fully charged, it stops accepting power. If a heavy wind storm hits at night when your batteries are full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will "free-spin" out of control and physically fly apart. A hybrid controller fixes this by automatically diverting that excess power into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.

  • No,that is the main benefit of the vertical design. Traditional horizontal "propeller" turbines create a high-pitched, annoying "chopping" noise. Our ST Tulip and Flower series utilise advanced omnidirectional maglev-style bearings, making them virtually silent and completely vibration-free, all you will hear is the wind. They are perfect for suburban blocks, tight caravan parks, and areas close to neighbours.

  • Yes.These turbines have an incredibly low startup wind speed of just 2.0 m/s, meaning the blades will begin rotating in a very gentle breeze. However, please note that physical power generation only starts accumulating once wind speeds consistently clear 4 to 5 m/s.

  • It is almost always caused by one of three common installation errors. Check these variables in order: Checking the Multi-Meter Setting (Most Common Mistake)

    • The Issue: The customer is likely measuring the three wires coming out of the turbine using a DC voltage setting on their multimeter.
    • The Reality: Wind turbines generate 3-Phase AC power directly from the stator.
    • The Fix: Instruct them to switch their multi-meter to AC Voltage (V~). Testing the wires under a DC setting will provide a false, completely inaccurate reading near zero.

    2. The Turbine is Stalling Due to Incorrect Wiring

    • The Issue: The turbine blades are spinning heavily but turning very slowly or locking up because of an electrical short.
    • The Reality: If any of the three AC output wires are accidentally touching each other, or if the controller's internal braking diodes have short-circuited, it creates a magnetic brake. This bogs down the turbine, physically stopping it from spinning fast enough to build voltage.
    • The Fix: Have them completely disconnect the turbine from the controller. If the turbine suddenly unbogs and spins much faster when disconnected, the problem is a short circuit in the wiring or a faulty controller.

    3. Voltage Drop Caused by Thin Cables

    • The Issue: The customer ran thin wiring over a long distance from the tower down to the battery shed.
    • The Reality: If they used standard thin solar cables or thin automotive wire over a long distance (e.g., 20+ metres), the natural resistance of the copper wire will choke out the electricity. The energy is lost as heat inside the wire before it ever reaches the meter.
    • The Fix: Ensure they are using heavy-duty, minimum 8 AWG or 6 AWG thick cable lines between the mast and the controller house
  • Wiring & Installation Requirement:This wind turbine generates 3-phase AC power andcannotbe connected directly to a battery, solar controller, or home inverter. To operate safely, it must run through a dedicatedWind/Solar Hybrid MPPT Controller with an integrated Dump Load Resistor. The dump load prevents the turbine from over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are fully charged.

  • Wind turbines are rated byCumulative Daily Capacity, not instantaneous hourly peak output. Because wind speeds fluctuate constantly second-by-second, a 1200W turbine is designed to yield up to 1200W of total poweraccumulated over a 24-hour periodin optimal conditions (averaging roughly 50W per hour). This constant, steady trickle is exactly what makes vertical turbines perfect for maintaining batteries overnight when solar panels are offline.

  • You should connect the wind turbine to a battery bank first, via a dedicated charge controller, rather than directly to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

    🔋 The Correct Wiring SequenceTo safely capture and use the power, your setup must follow this exact order:

    1. Wind Turbine: Generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC power as wind speeds change.
    2. Hybrid/Wind Charge Controller: Converts the unstable AC power into steady DC power. It also protects the turbine from over-speeding by applying an electronic brake during high winds.
    3. Battery Bank (12V/24V/48V): Acts as a buffer to store the energy. It absorbs sudden power spikes from wind gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
    4. Off-Grid Inverter: Connects to the battery, converting the stored DC battery power into standard AC power for your household appliances.

    ⚠️ Why You Cannot Skip the Battery

    • Unstable Voltage: Wind speeds change second by second. Without a battery to absorb and smooth out these massive fluctuations, a direct-connect inverter would constantly turn off and error out.
    • Turbine Destruction: When a battery is full or disconnected, a wind turbine loses its "load" (resistance). Without that resistance, the blades can spin out of control in high winds and physically destroy the unit. The charge controller uses the battery connection to safely dump excess power and slow the turbine down.

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