Wind Turbine FAQs

    • Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
    • Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
    • Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
    • Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
    1. The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
    2. Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
    1. No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
    2. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
    • You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
    • The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.

  • Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:

    • 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
    • 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
    • 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
    • When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
    1. If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
    • The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
    • Yes, you need one.
    • Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
    • Why a Horizontal is Louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
    • Why a Vertical is Usually Quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
    1. What we won't Tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
    2. The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
    • On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
    • It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
    • Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
    1. The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
    • A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
    • No — small turbines are built to spin fast. The smaller the rotor, the faster it has to turn to keep its blade tips up with the wind: the M-400's 1.35 m rotor runs at about 800 rpm, the M-600 and M-800 at about 500, the big G-series at 300.
    • In the manufacturer's words, the high rpm is a design necessity, not a defect. A slower generator would need a bigger stator and more magnets and copper — heavier and dearer.
    • They start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and make power right across the wind range — just less when the wind is light. What you get depends on your site and how high you mount it.
    • Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
    1. Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

    The Correct Order:

    • 1. Wind Turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
    • 2. Hybrid or Wind Charge Controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
    • 3. Battery Bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
    • 4. Off-Grid Inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.

    Why you Cannot Skip the Battery:

    1. Unstable Voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
    2. Turbine Damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
    1. This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
    • It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
    • Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
    • Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.

  • It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.

    Quick Checks — Tick as You Go

    • Is the Meter Set to AC Volts (V~)?
    • Does it Spin Freely Once Disconnected from the Controller?
    • Is the Cable from the Mast Heavy Enough for the Run?

    1. The Multimeter is Set to DC — The Most Common Mistake.

    1. Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
    • Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).

    2. The Turbine is Stalling Because of a Short.

    1. The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
    • Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.

    3. Voltage Drop from Thin Cable.

    1. Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
    • Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
    • The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
    • A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
    • Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
    • As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
    • Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
    1. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
    • Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
    • It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
    • See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting Guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
    • Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
    • Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
    • Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
    • Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
    • See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.
1 20

MPPT Hybrid Controller Wind & Solar 1kW 2kW 3kW & Dump Load Resistor

$439.00 AUD
Capacity: Wind1000W Solar1000W
Rated Voltage
Controller Type

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The Bank's Full and the Wind's Still Blowing.

A wind turbine has no off switch. When the bank hits full and the breeze keeps coming, that energy still has to go somewhere. If there is nowhere for it to go, the voltage climbs and you find out which part of your system was the cheapest — a cooked controller, a boiled battery bank, or a rotor free-wheeling faster than it was ever meant to on a pole above the shed. Then you are off-grid with no power and a repair bill, a long way from the nearest supplier.

This is a Meteor MPPT hybrid controller with the dump load resistor in the same box. Wind on one set of terminals, solar on another, both charging the one bank through one display. When the bank is full or the wind gets away, it brakes the turbine and burns the surplus off through the resistor instead of through your gear.

Straight Up: it is a charge controller, not an inverter. It charges batteries and runs DC loads — anything at 240V still needs an inverter after it. It will not run without a battery connected, the manual is blunt about that, and like every turbine and controller we sell it needs to be installed by a qualified specialist.

Which One do I Need?

This Controller Comes in Matched Pairs — 1000W wind with 1000W solar, 2000W with 2000W, or 3000W with 3000W. Take your turbine's rated output and pick the pair at or above it. Oversizing doesn't make you more power, it just costs more.

Then pick your voltage. The 12V/24V option auto-detects between those two banks and takes solar up to 55V. The 24V/48V option auto-detects between those two and takes solar up to 95V. Both accept wind up to 80V. Match the option to the bank you actually have.

Buying a Turbine from Us Instead? You don't need to work any of this out. Turbines supplied with a hybrid controller ship one already matched to the turbine's output. This listing is for building or repairing a system around gear you already own.

Not sure? The pairs and the voltage options are set out above, and the spec table lists the input limits and what the supplier doesn't publish. Match those to the gear you've already got, and have your electrician size the run from the measured output.

Problem Solving / Benefits
  • Somewhere for the Surplus to Go: the dump load resistor is in the box, not an add-on you discover you need after the first windy night. Wire it on the D+ and D− terminals and the controller has somewhere to put the extra.
  • One Box Instead of Two: turbine and panels through a single unit with one screen. Fewer connections to corrode, one place to look when the bank isn't charging, and one thing to isolate when you want to work on it.
  • Wind Covers What Solar can't: overnight, heavy cloud, a week of rain, short winter days. Panels do nothing at 2am; that is usually when it blows. Running both is what smooths the year out.
  • Checks Itself from the Ute: Bluetooth to the phone app means you can see what the bank is doing without climbing into the shed with a torch. The app is Android only — the LCD on the front tells you the same thing either way.
  • Runs a Light Circuit on its Own: the DC load output has a dusk-to-dawn mode and a timed mode with four adjustable phases, so shed lights or a gate light run off the bank without a separate timer.
Key Features
  • Three Matched Pairs — Wind 1000W with Solar 1000W, 2000W with 2000W, or 3000W with 3000W.
  • Two Voltage Options — 12V/24V auto-detect or 24V/48V auto-detect. The menu can lock it to a single voltage if you'd rather it didn't guess.
  • Input Limits are Published — wind ≤80V on both, solar ≤55V on the 12V/24V option and ≤95V on the 48V option.
  • MPPT on the wind side with boost charging, and intelligent disconnection on the solar side once the bank is full.
  • PWM dump load control to the external resistor, plus automatic braking on over-voltage, over-current and over-load.
  • Handles the Usual Battery Chemistries — gel, ternary lithium, lithium iron phosphate, or a custom setting where you set the voltages yourself.
  • Bluetooth on Every Option Sold Here — the supplier's GreenPower app, which the manual states is Android only.
  • Eleven-Terminal Block — dump load, battery, solar, wind three-phase, and DC load, all clearly marked on the case.
  • Protected Against the Common Mistakes — reversed solar charging, reverse battery polarity on a replaceable internal fuse, and battery open circuit.
  • Conformal-coated board in a finned aluminium case, 167 × 137 × 61.8 mm, wall mounted.
  • Indoor Mounting Only — no IP rating is published for it, so it wants to be inside or in a sealed enclosure.

One warning worth more than the rest of this page. The wattage in the title is a configuration name, not a current rating. Nobody publishes the maximum charging amps for this controller — not the case, not the images, not the manual. Do not size cable, fuses or breakers off a wattage figure. Amps are what melts wire. Have your electrician size the run from the measured output.

The Dump Load Numbers, in Full

The resistor supplied in the box carries its rating on its own plate, and we have read it off the plate rather than taken anyone's word for it: 800W 1RJ. In standard resistor marking that is 800 watts, 1 ohm, 5% tolerance. Put Ohm's law across the bank voltages this controller is sold for and the three answers do not land in the same place:

  • On a 12V Bank: 12 amps through 1 ohm, about 144 watts. Well inside an 800 watt part.
  • On a 24V Bank: 24 amps, about 576 watts. Still inside the rating.
  • On a 48V Bank: 48 amps, about 2,300 watts — roughly 2.9 times the 800 watts on the plate.

We sell a 24V/48V option, so 48V systems are being sold this resistor. The same resistor appears in the supplier's photographs of the 1000W, 2000W and 3000W options — the three pictures are the one photograph with the caption changed, so nothing in the imagery shows a larger resistor going out with the larger units. We are not telling you the controller is unsafe and we are not telling you the resistor is unsafe. We are telling you that the supplier's part and the supplier's own supported bank voltages do not reconcile at 48V, and that you are better placed to size it yourself knowing that than not.

The caveat, stated honestly in both directions. The controller switches the dump load with PWM rather than holding it on flat out, so the average power going through the resistor is lower than the full-duty figures above — how much lower depends on how hard it is dumping. That does not make the number go away. While it is switched on it is still 48 amps through a part rated at 800 watts. Amps are physics; the watts on a label are marketing.

If you are on a 48V bank, size the dump load for your bank or have your sparky size it, and treat the supplied resistor as the starting point rather than the finished job. This Matters More than a Spec Line Usually Does: the dump load is the turbine's brake. Once the bank is full it is the only thing loading the generator. If it cooks and fails open, the turbine loses its load and can run away — and an overspeeding rotor in a decent blow is how these tear themselves apart.

Q & A

Does the Dump Load Resistor Come with it, or is That Extra?

It's in the box. Every option on this page ships the controller and the external dump load resistor together, on its mounting brackets, with a pair of leads. There is no variant here that gives you the controller on its own.

What Size is the Dump Load Resistor?

The plate on the resistor reads 800W 1RJ — in standard resistor marking, 800 watts, 1 ohm, 5% tolerance. Run the arithmetic across the banks this controller supports and a 1 ohm dump draws 12 amps at 12V (about 144 watts), 24 amps at 24V (about 576 watts) and 48 amps at 48V (about 2,300 watts, roughly 2.9 times the 800 watts on the plate). The controller switches the dump load rather than running it flat out, so the average is lower than that — but the instantaneous current at 48V is still 48 amps through an 800 watt part. It is also the same resistor in the photographs of all three options, including the 3000W pair. We are not saying it is unsafe. We are saying the supplier's part and the supplier's supported bank voltages do not reconcile at 48V, and we would rather you knew. On a 48V bank, size a dump load for your bank or have your sparky do it. The full working is set out above.

What do the Options Actually Change?

Two things. The first is the matched wind and solar pair — 1000W/1000W, 2000W/2000W or 3000W/3000W. The second is the battery voltage range — 12V/24V auto-detect or 24V/48V auto-detect. Every option is the Bluetooth version; there is no non-Bluetooth choice to make.

How Many Amps will it Put Out?

We don't know, and we won't guess. The maximum charging current isn't printed on the unit, isn't on the supplier's spec images and isn't in the manual that comes with it. That matters because amps are what you size cable and breakers from, not watts. Have your electrician size the run off the measured output. Anyone who hands you a cable size based on the number in the title is guessing.

What can I Connect to the Inputs?

Wind up to 80V on either version. Solar up to 55V on the 12V/24V option, or up to 95V on the 48V option. Those are the supplier's own figures. Check your panel's open-circuit voltage in the cold, not its working voltage — that is where people go over.

Will the Bluetooth App Work on my iPhone?

Not according to the manual, which says the GreenPower app is Android only. The LCD on the front of the controller shows the same information, so nothing is lost except reading it from the ute. If that matters to you, plan on an Android phone or tablet living in the shed.

What Batteries does it Suit?

Gel, ternary lithium, lithium iron phosphate, or a custom setting where you enter the over-discharge, recovery and over-charge voltages yourself. Set the battery type before you commission it, not after.

Can I Mount it Outside on the Pole?

No. There is no IP rating published for this controller, and the manual says keep water and snow out, away from corrosive gases and away from strong electromagnetic interference. Inside the shed, the van or a sealed enclosure.

What Order do I Connect Everything in?

It's printed on the front of the unit and it is not optional: dump load and load first, then the battery, then the solar panel, then the wind turbine. It also says do not short the circuit. Connect the turbine last and connect it when it isn't spinning hard.

My Turbine Slows Right Down as Soon as I Connect it. Is it Broken?

Usually not. The manual gives three reasons: the bank has reached float voltage, or the turbine's output voltage is much higher than the bank so the battery drags the speed down, or the dump load has been damaged by an incorrect connection. If it's spinning and showing nothing at all, read the 0W troubleshooting guide before you assume a fault.

Do I Need an Electrician?

Yes. Wind turbines, solar controllers and technical electrical gear all have to be installed by a qualified specialist. Damage from DIY installation or improper wiring isn't covered — see our Return Policy.

How Long will it Take to Get Here?

5 to 10 working days from the day you place the order, not from the day we dispatch it. Allow 1–2 days for fulfilment. Regional and remote addresses can take longer. Free Standard Delivery with no minimum spend.

What if it Turns Up Faulty?

Ring 0400 333 898 or email Support@BushLine.com.au and we'll sort it. Returns cover faulty or not-as-described, not change of mind. On electrical gear a fault return needs proof of professional installation — an electrician's invoice.

Specs

Brand Meteor (As Marked on the Supplier's Own Product Images)
Type MPPT wind & solar hybrid charge controller, with external dump load resistor
Configurations Matched pairs — Wind 1000W + Solar 1000W · Wind 2000W + Solar 2000W · Wind 3000W + Solar 3000W. Selected at checkout
System Voltage 12V/24V auto-detect, or 24V/48V auto-detect — selected at checkout. The menu can also lock the controller to 12V, 24V or 48V instead of auto
Maximum Wind Input Voltage Wind turbine ≤ 80V, stated on the supplier spec image for both system options
Maximum Solar Input Voltage Solar panel ≤ 55V on the 12V/24V option, ≤ 95V on the 48V option, per the supplier spec image
Maximum Charging Current Not specified by supplier. It is not stated on the unit, on the supplier's spec images, or in the manual supplied with this controller. Do not size cable, fuses or breakers from the wattage in the product title — watts are not amps. Have your electrician size the run from the measured output
Wind Charging MPPT Boost Charging
Solar Charging Intelligent Disconnection When the Bank is Full
Dump Load PWM control to an external dump load resistor. Resistor supplied in the box
Dump Load Resistor Rating The dump load resistor is 800W, 1 ohm (plate reading). The plate reads 800W 1RJ, which in standard resistor marking is 800 watts, 1 ohm, 5% tolerance. Read off the plate in the supplier's photographs — we have no written confirmation of it from the supplier. It is the same resistor in the photographs of all three options, including the 3000W pair
Dump Load at Each Bank Voltage Ohm's law across a 1 ohm dump load: 12V — 12 amps, about 144 watts · 24V — 24 amps, about 576 watts · 48V — 48 amps, about 2,300 watts, roughly 2.9 times the 800 watts on the plate. The controller switches the dump load with PWM, so the average power is lower than these full-duty figures; the instantaneous current is not. On a 48V bank, size a dump load for your bank or have your electrician size it
Brake Behaviour Once the brake engages it holds before releasing. The manual supplied with this unit gives around 10 minutes; on some models in this family the brake time is an adjustable setting. Check your own unit's menu
Battery Types Gel, ternary lithium (two preset string counts), lithium iron phosphate, or a fully custom setting where you set the voltages yourself
Adjustable Voltages Over-discharge protection, over-discharge recovery and over-charge protection voltages, set in the menu
Display LCD — wind, solar and load voltage and current, battery capacity and voltage, charging power, load status, controller temperature, daily/30 day/cumulative generation and consumption
Connectivity Bluetooth to the supplier's GreenPower phone app. The manual states the app is Android only. Every option sold here is the Bluetooth version
Data Address RS485 Device Address, Settable in the Menu
DC Load Output Modes 3 — light control (off by day, on at night at full power) · always on at full power · light plus time control, with four time phases and a morning phase, each 0−900 minutes at 0−100% power
Terminals D+ B+ B− S+ S− U V W L+ L− D− (dump load, battery, solar, wind, load)
Connection Order Printed on the unit: connect the dump load and the load first, then the battery, then the solar panel, then the wind turbine
Protections Reversed solar charging, reverse battery polarity (internal replaceable fuse), battery open circuit, over-voltage, over-current and over-load with automatic braking
Lightning Protection Not included, and we don't supply it. The manual lists it as an extra-cost option. If you're somewhere lightning-prone, have your electrician fit lightning protection as part of the install — it's the last line of defence for the whole system, not just this controller
Circuit Board Conformal Coated Against Dust, Moisture & Static
Housing Finned Aluminium
Dimensions 167 × 137 × 61.8 mm
Mounting Wall mount, four ø4.5 mm holes at 145.5 mm horizontal centres. The manual drawing also carries a 110.5 mm vertical dimension — measure the unit before you drill
Mounting Location Indoors or in a sealed enclosure. Keep water and snow out, away from corrosive gases and strong electromagnetic interference
Weight Not Specified by Supplier
Ingress Protection (IP) Rating Not specified by supplier. Treat it as indoor-only
Operating Temperature Not Specified by Supplier
Certification A CE mark is printed on the housing and is visible in the product photographs. No certificate has been sighted. An ISO logo also appears on one supplier marketing image with no standard number against it — treat that one as marketing, not evidence
In the Box Controller, external dump load resistor on its mounting brackets, one pair of red and black leads with ring terminals, and a cable tie

Figures above are taken from the manufacturer's manual and the supplier's own spec images and product photographs. Where nothing is stated, we've said so rather than guess.

Turbine Spinning but Showing 0W?

It is almost never a faulty turbine or controller. Read the 0W troubleshooting & correct installation guide before you assume something is broken.

Typical Off-Grid Wiring Layout

Off-grid wiring layout — vertical axis wind turbine and solar panel into a hybrid MPPT controller, with dump load, main battery circuit breaker, DC bus bar, 12V 24V 48V battery bank and inverter

What Else you'll Need

A controller on the wall is only part of a system. This is the gear that goes around it, and why it matters.

  • 3-Pin Anderson Plug: wire one in between the turbine and the controller and you can unplug the whole turbine — drop it for maintenance, swap it out, or take it off the van before you travel. Five minutes' work and you'll thank yourself later.
  • Bus Bars: where everything lands before it reaches the battery. Properly rated 48V bus bars are genuinely hard to find — most of what's sold online is light-duty gear. There's also a 500A marine version.
  • Breakers & Isolators: every input and output wants a breaker or isolator on it so you can shut the turbine down and isolate it before you touch anything. There's also a 100A−300A rotary isolator.
  • Cable & Lugs: shielded 2 and 3 core copper cable, and a lug crimper if you're making up your own runs.

Straight Up on Cable Sizing: it depends on your run length, your system voltage and your current, and every setup is a bit different. What we stock covers 48V systems and shorter runs well. If you're building 12V or 24V, check the sizing against your own run and talk to your sparky — we'd rather you fitted the right cable than the one we happen to have on the shelf.

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Wind Turbine FAQs

    • Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
    • Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
    • Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
    • Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
    1. The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
    2. Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
    1. No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
    2. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
    • You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
    • The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.

  • Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:

    • 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
    • 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
    • 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
    • When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
    1. If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
    • The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
    • Yes, you need one.
    • Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
    • Why a Horizontal is Louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
    • Why a Vertical is Usually Quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
    1. What we won't Tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
    2. The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
    • On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
    • It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
    • Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
    1. The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
    • A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
    • No — small turbines are built to spin fast. The smaller the rotor, the faster it has to turn to keep its blade tips up with the wind: the M-400's 1.35 m rotor runs at about 800 rpm, the M-600 and M-800 at about 500, the big G-series at 300.
    • In the manufacturer's words, the high rpm is a design necessity, not a defect. A slower generator would need a bigger stator and more magnets and copper — heavier and dearer.
    • They start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and make power right across the wind range — just less when the wind is light. What you get depends on your site and how high you mount it.
    • Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
    1. Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

    The Correct Order:

    • 1. Wind Turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
    • 2. Hybrid or Wind Charge Controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
    • 3. Battery Bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
    • 4. Off-Grid Inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.

    Why you Cannot Skip the Battery:

    1. Unstable Voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
    2. Turbine Damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
    1. This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
    • It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
    • Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
    • Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.

  • It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.

    Quick Checks — Tick as You Go

    • Is the Meter Set to AC Volts (V~)?
    • Does it Spin Freely Once Disconnected from the Controller?
    • Is the Cable from the Mast Heavy Enough for the Run?

    1. The Multimeter is Set to DC — The Most Common Mistake.

    1. Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
    • Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).

    2. The Turbine is Stalling Because of a Short.

    1. The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
    • Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.

    3. Voltage Drop from Thin Cable.

    1. Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
    • Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
    • The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
    • A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
    • Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
    • As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
    • Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
    1. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
    • Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
    • It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
    • See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting Guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
    • Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
    • Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
    • Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
    • Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
    • See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.

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