Wind Turbine FAQs
-
- Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
- Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
- Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
- Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
- The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
- Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
-
- No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
- Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
- You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
- The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.
-
Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:
- 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
- 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
- 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
-
- When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
- If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
- The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
- Yes, you need one.
-
- Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
- Why a horizontal is louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
- Why a vertical is usually quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
- What we won't tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
- The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
- On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
-
- It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
- Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
- The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
- A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
-
- Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
- Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.
The correct order:
- 1. Wind turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
- 2. Hybrid or wind charge controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
- 3. Battery bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
- 4. Off-grid inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.
Why you cannot skip the battery:
- Unstable voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
- Turbine damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
-
- This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
- It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
- Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
- Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.
-
It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.
1. The multimeter is set to DC — the most common mistake.
- Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
- Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).
2. The turbine is stalling because of a short.
- The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
- Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.
3. Voltage drop from thin cable.
- Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
- Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
-
- The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
- A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
- Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
- As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
- Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
- If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
-
- Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
- It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
- See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
-
- Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
- Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
- Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
- Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
- See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.
Mars 1kW-3kW Wind & Solar Hybrid MPPT Controller Lifepo4 Full Battery Display
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Mars 1kW-3kW Wind & Solar Hybrid MPPT Controller Lifepo4 Full B...
Mount This Outside and You'll Damage It.
The turbine lives out in the weather. The controller doesn't. IP30 means it's protected against solid objects but has no water rating at all, so it goes in the shed, the cabin, the van, or a sealed enclosure with the breakers. Bolt it to a pole next to the turbine and the first decent rain will damage it.
That out of the way — this is the part that does the thinking. The Mars hybrid MPPT controller takes the wild AC coming off your turbine and whatever your panels are making, tracks both to their maximum power point, and delivers a clean charge to the bank. It reads your battery voltage and sets itself to 12V, 24V or 48V without you configuring anything, and it handles lead-acid, LiFePO4 and ternary lithium.
Twelve configurations, from 1000W wind and 1000W solar up to 3000W of each. Match the pair to what you've actually got — the turbine's rated output and your array's total — rather than buying the biggest one.
Straight Up: a controller doesn't make you more power, it stops you wasting what you generate and stops you damaging your batteries. The >98% conversion figure is the supplier's, measured in ideal conditions. And this needs a qualified sparky — wiring order matters here, battery first, then wind, then DC load, then solar.
Problem Solving / Benefits
- One Box, Not Two: wind and solar both run through this unit, on one display, with one set of settings. Fewer things to wire and one place to look when something's off.
- Check the Bank from the Boat: the Wi-Fi module puts the system on your phone, so you can see what the camp is doing from the tinny or the track instead of walking back to the shed.
- Switch to Lithium Later: lead-acid today, LiFePO4 when the budget allows. Selectable charge profiles mean the controller doesn't need replacing when the batteries do.
- Stops the Turbine Overcharging the Bank: when the batteries hit float and the wind keeps blowing, it brakes the turbine and dumps the excess to a load resistor instead of pushing it into full batteries.
- Runs Wind or Solar on its Own: the two inputs are independent. Turbine only, panels only, or both — you don't have to have solar for this to work.
Key Features
- Twelve Configurations: wind 1000W to 3000W paired with solar 1000W to 3000W. Combined 1kW, 2kW and 3kW class options.
- Auto Voltage Sensing: recognises a 12V, 24V or 48V bank on its own. Working windows are 9–16V, 18–32V and 36–60V.
- True MPPT on Both Inputs: tracks the maximum power point for wind and solar separately. Supplier rates conversion efficiency above 98%.
- Four Battery Chemistries: lead-acid (default), LiFePO4, ternary lithium (LiNiCoMn) and a custom profile.
- Wi-Fi App Monitoring: Wi-Fi and GPRS module for cloud monitoring, plus RS485 for wired connection.
- Colour Display on the Unit: full system view at a glance without reaching for your phone.
- Automatic Wind Braking: brakes the turbine and diverts to a dump load when output goes outside the safe range or the bank is full.
- Dump Load Resistor Included: ships with the controller, so you don't have to source one separately.
- Overcharge and Over-Discharge Protection: cuts in at 15.5V / 31.0V / 62.0V and 10.5V / 21.0V / 42.0V respectively.
- IP30 Rated: dust protected, no water rating. Indoor or enclosure mounting only, 10% to 90% humidity, non-condensing.
- CE, FCC and RoHS certified.
Q & A
Can I Mount it Outside Next to the Turbine?
No. It's IP30 — dust protected, no water rating. It needs to be indoors, in a shed, or inside a sealed weatherproof enclosure. This is the single most common way these units get damaged.
Which Configuration do I Need?
Match it to the gear you've got, not to your ambitions. Take your turbine's rated output for the wind figure and the total of your panels for the solar figure, then pick the configuration at or above both. Oversizing the controller doesn't produce more power.
What Solar Panels will it Take?
The panel array's Vmp needs to sit above your battery voltage by at least 1V, and open-circuit voltage must stay under 27.6V on a 12V system, 55.2V on 24V, or 105V on 48V. As a rough guide the supplier suggests roughly 18V Vmp for a 12V bank, 36V for 24V and 72V for 48V.
Do I Need Solar Panels for This to Work?
No. Wind charging and solar charging are independent. You can run the turbine on its own, the panels on their own, or both together.
What Order do I Wire it Up in?
Battery first, then wind, then DC load, then solar. Shutting down is the reverse. Fit a breaker or isolator on every input and output — see our electrical supplies for cable and breakers.
Why is Nothing Showing on the Screen When the Turbine is Turning?
Input has to reach the MPPT start-up voltage before it will charge — 8V on a 12V system, 16V on 24V, 32V on 48V. The battery also has to be properly connected and not already full.
Why does the Turbine Slow Right Down Once it's Connected?
Usually because the bank has reached float voltage. Turbine speed is proportional to output voltage, and once the battery is holding the voltage down the wheel slows with it. That's the system working, not a fault.
What does the Dump Load do?
It diverts excess power away from the batteries once they're full, dissipating it as heat through a resistor rather than overcharging the bank or letting the turbine over-speed. The dump load resistor is included with the controller, so there's nothing extra to source.
Why does the Size of the Dump Load Resistor Matter?
A wind turbine has to stay under load. Once your bank is full the controller diverts the turbine into the dump load resistor and uses it as an electronic brake, so the resistor has to absorb the turbine's peak output in a gust, not its average. A resistor that is too small overheats, and the controller falls back on its over-voltage brake — on controllers of this type that brake holds the turbine for around ten minutes before it releases, so an undersized dump load means more lock-outs in gusty weather and less charging. A resistor with headroom keeps absorbing through the gust and the brake does not need to latch. That is one reason this is our pick over the budget units: the unit we bought for our own testing came with a dump load resistor rated well above the turbine power it is paired with. We have not printed the resistor's rating because the manufacturer does not publish one and we will not print a figure we cannot source — read the plate on the resistor you receive, and have your electrician confirm it against your turbine and your bank voltage.
Do I Need a Qualified Electrician?
Yes. All wind turbines and charge controllers must be installed by a qualified specialist. Damage from DIY installation or improper wiring isn't covered — see our Return Policy. Lightning protection on the system is also strongly recommended.
Specs
| Model | Mars Wind & Solar Hybrid MPPT Controller |
| Supported Power Range | 1kW, 2kW & 3kW Class (Combined Wind + Solar) |
| Configurations | Wind 1000W–3000W Paired with Solar 1000W–3000W, Twelve Combinations |
| System Voltage | 12V / 24V / 48V, Auto-Recognised from the Battery Bank |
| Working Voltage Range | 9–16 VDC (12V) · 18–32 VDC (24V) · 36–60 VDC (48V) |
| Charging Technology | MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking), Wind & Solar Independent |
| Wind Input Type | Three-Phase AC, Terminals Marked U, V & W |
| Maximum Charging Current | Not specified by supplier. No rated current figure is published on the product, the packaging or any supplier image. Do not size cable, lugs or breakers from the wattage figure in the variant name. Have your electrician size it from the measured output |
| Conversion Efficiency | Above 98% (Supplier Figure) |
| Battery Compatibility | Lead-Acid (Default), LiFePO4, Ternary Lithium (LiNiCoMn), Custom |
| Solar Maximum Open-Circuit Voltage | 27.6V (12V) · 55.2V (24V) · 105V (48V) |
| Solar Vmp | Battery Voltage Plus at Least 1V |
| MPPT Start-Up Voltage | 8V (12V) · 16V (24V) · 32V (48V) |
| Over-Charge Voltage | 15.5V / 31.0V / 62.0V |
| Over-Discharge Voltage | 10.5V / 21.0V / 42.0V |
| Floating Charge Voltage | 13.8V / 27.6V / 55.2V |
| Wind Braking Voltage | 15.5V / 31.0V / 62.0V |
| Terminals | PV+ · PV− · B+ · B− · L+ · L− on the left block; D+ · U · V · W · D− on the right block, plus an RJ45 RS485 socket |
| Dump Load Resistor | Included. Connects to the D+ and D− terminals. Resistance and wattage rating: Not specified by supplier — read the plate on the resistor you receive |
| Load Output | Switched DC output on L+ and L−, with day and night modes and adjustable output time. Rated load current: Not specified by supplier |
| Protections | Overcharge, Over-Discharge & Overload |
| Communication | Wi-Fi / GPRS module for app and cloud monitoring, plus RS485 |
| Display | Colour Screen on the Unit |
| Enclosure | Sheet metal body, fanless, with a finned heatsink on the back |
| Protection Rating | IP30 — dust protected, no water rating. Indoor or enclosure mounting only |
| Operating Humidity | 10% to 90%, Non-Condensing |
| Dimensions & Weight | Not Specified by Supplier |
| In The Box | Controller · Wi-Fi module · dump load resistor · cable, screws and nuts · one pair of MC4 connectors · MC4 spanner · manual |
| Certification | CE, FCC, RoHS |
Turbine Spinning But Showing 0W?
It is almost never a faulty turbine or controller. Read the 0W troubleshooting & correct installation guide before you assume something is broken.
Matching Your System
- 12V Bank: 12V wind generator plus a solar array of roughly 18V Vmp.
- 24V Bank: 24V wind generator plus a solar array of roughly 36V Vmp.
- 48V Bank: 48V wind generator plus a solar array of roughly 72V Vmp.
Typical Off-Grid Wiring Layout
What Else You'll Need
A controller is the middle of a system. This is the gear either side of it, and why it matters.
- 3-pin Anderson plug: put one between the turbine and this controller and you can unplug the turbine — drop it for maintenance, swap it out, or take it off the van before you travel.
- Bus bars: where everything lands between this controller and the battery. Properly rated 48V bus bars are genuinely hard to find — most of what's sold online is light-duty gear. There's also a 500A marine version.
- Breakers and isolators: every input and output wants a breaker or isolator on it — that's not optional here, it's the wiring order this unit needs. It means you can safely shut down and isolate the system before you touch anything. That protects you, and it stops a surge damaging the controller or the rest of your power system. Also a DIN-rail mini breaker and a 100A–300A rotary isolator.
- Cable and lugs: flexible copper cable, shielded 2 and 3 core, and a lug crimper if you're making up your own runs.
Straight Up on Cable Sizing: it depends on your run length, your system voltage and your current, and every setup is a bit different. What we stock covers 48V systems and shorter runs well. If you're building 12V or 24V, check the sizing against your own run and talk to your sparky — we'd rather you fitted the right cable than the one we happen to have on the shelf.
Watch Me
Everything we know about this one is written down: the Specs for the supplier's published figures, and the Q & A for the questions buyers ask before they order.
Payment & Security
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Wind Turbine FAQs
-
- Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
- Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
- Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
- Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
- The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
- Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
-
- No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
- Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
- You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
- The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.
-
Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:
- 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
- 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
- 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
-
- When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
- If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
- The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
- Yes, you need one.
-
- Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
- Why a horizontal is louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
- Why a vertical is usually quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
- What we won't tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
- The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
- On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
-
- It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
- Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
- The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
- A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
-
- Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
- Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.
The correct order:
- 1. Wind turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
- 2. Hybrid or wind charge controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
- 3. Battery bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
- 4. Off-grid inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.
Why you cannot skip the battery:
- Unstable voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
- Turbine damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
-
- This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
- It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
- Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
- Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.
-
It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.
1. The multimeter is set to DC — the most common mistake.
- Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
- Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).
2. The turbine is stalling because of a short.
- The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
- Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.
3. Voltage drop from thin cable.
- Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
- Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
-
- The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
- A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
- Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
- As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
- Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
- If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
-
- Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
- It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
- See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
-
- Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
- Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
- Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
- Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
- See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.
