Wind Turbine Calculator Sent Pair a Wind Turbine to your needs.
Eleven quick questions and we'll point you at the two or three turbines in the range that fit your set-up. Nothing to sign up for. If none of them fit, we'll say so. Already know what you want? Skip to the quote form.
You can buy any turbine without using this. It's here to save you buying the wrong one. Want the long version first? Read our guide to choosing a wind turbine.
Get A Quote For Your Set-Up
Tell us what you've got and we'll come back to you by email with the right turbine, controller and delivery to your door. Or email us direct: quotes@bushline.com.au
Wind Turbine FAQs
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Start with two questions: how much wind does your site actually get, and how much room do you have.
Vertical turbines (X-300, and the H12 and HPRO series) start turning in about 2 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they suit rooftops, suburban blocks and anywhere the wind swirls and shifts. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. They scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W — and most of them survive heavier weather.
Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block. The largest models run at 220 V, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
Rated power is measured at 10–12 m/s. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
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No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will instantly destroy your equipment. You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.
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You must match the turbine and its charge controller to the exact voltage of your existing battery bank:
- 12V: Best for compact mobile setups like caravans, 4WDs, and camper trailers.
- 24V: Great for medium-sized setups like off-grid sheds, cabins, and motorhomes.
- 48V: The gold standard for full off-grid home systems. Higher voltage means less energy loss through your wires and allows you to use thinner, safer cables.
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When your battery bank becomes 100% fully charged, it stops accepting power. If a heavy wind storm hits at night when your batteries are full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will "free-spin" out of control and physically fly apart. The charge controller fixes this by automatically diverting that excess power into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
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No, that is the main benefit of the vertical design. A horizontal "propeller" turbine makes a chopping noise as each blade passes the mast. Our verticals — the X-300, H12 and HPRO series — take wind from any direction with no yaw mechanism, and the HPRO series runs on a magnetic-levitation generator, so most of what you hear is the wind itself. They suit suburban blocks, caravan parks and sites close to neighbours.
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It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start rotating at about 1.5 m/s — a light breeze. Charging starts once the wind clears the cut-in speed of about 3.5 m/s, and output climbs from there — the rated figure is measured at 13 m/s (about 47 km/h). A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries.
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You should connect the wind turbine to a battery bank first, via a dedicated charge controller, rather than directly to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.
🔋 The Correct Wiring SequenceTo safely capture and use the power, your setup must follow this exact order:
- Wind Turbine: Generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC power as wind speeds change.
- Hybrid/Wind Charge Controller: Converts the unstable AC power into steady DC power. It also protects the turbine from over-speeding by applying an electronic brake during high winds.
- Battery Bank (12V/24V/48V): Acts as a buffer to store the energy. It absorbs sudden power spikes from wind gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
- Off-Grid Inverter: Connects to the battery, converting the stored DC battery power into standard AC power for your household appliances.
⚠️ Why You Cannot Skip the Battery
- Unstable Voltage: Wind speeds change second by second. Without a battery to absorb and smooth out these massive fluctuations, a direct-connect inverter would constantly turn off and error out.
- Turbine Destruction: When a battery is full or disconnected, a wind turbine loses its "load" (resistance). Without that resistance, the blades can spin out of control in high winds and physically destroy the unit. The charge controller uses the battery connection to safely dump excess power and slow the turbine down.
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Wiring & Installation Requirement: This wind turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, solar controller, or home inverter. To operate safely, it must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load prevents the turbine from over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are fully charged.
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It is almost always one of three common installation issues. Check them in order:
1. Your multimeter is set to DC (the most common mistake).
- The issue: measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts.
- The reality: wind turbines generate 3-phase AC power directly from the stator.
- The fix: switch your multimeter to AC volts (V~). Testing these wires on a DC setting gives a false reading near zero.
2. The turbine is stalling because of a short.
- The issue: the blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up.
- The reality: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller’s internal braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
- The fix: completely disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it suddenly frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.
3. Voltage drop from thin cables.
- The issue: thin wire run a long way from the tower to the battery shed.
- The reality: thin solar or automotive cable over a long run (20 metres or more) loses the power as heat in the wire before it reaches the controller.
- The fix: use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG.
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Because the number on the box is a peak rating, not a promise. A turbine’s rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — for these models that is 13 m/s, about 47 km/h — and most sites see far less most of the time. Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second with the wind. That is physics, not a fault.
Where these turbines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through weather that shuts solar down. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different issue — see the 0 W question below.
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Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it's rarely a faulty unit. It's usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done. See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting & Installation Guide for the complete walkthrough, or contact us and we'll help you sort it out.
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Short answer: wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order — battery first, then solar, then wind. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common “spinning but 0 W” problem.
Correct installation comes down to isolation and the right sequence:
- Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar
- Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop
- Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last
See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.
M-800 Horizontal Wind Turbine — 800W at 12 m/s, 24/48V
Pick Your Postcode
Delivery is priced to your door in Australia and New Zealand. Just put in your postcode to see the sea and air options.
Freight is priced in Australian dollars. New Zealand orders are converted to NZ dollars at checkout.
Delivering outside Australia or New Zealand? We quote delivery to your door before you order — use the calculator above or email quotes@bushline.com.au. Import duty, customs charges and any tax on arrival are set by your country and are payable by you.
Tracking
Tracking
Keep an eye on your gear.
Simply enter the tracking number sent to your email to see exactly where your package is and when it is estimated to arrive.
Note: It may take 24-48 hours for tracking information to update after your order has been dispatched.
M-800 Horizontal Wind Turbine — 800W at 12 m/s, 24/48V
Wind pulls its weight when solar clocks off.
Running a house or a working shed off-grid means the battery bank is the whole story. Solar fills it while the sun cooperates — then comes night, then comes winter, and then comes the fortnight of weather where the panels barely wake up and the generator becomes a lifestyle.
The M-800 is the practical starting point for putting real wind into a household bank: a 2 m three-blade rotor, 26 kg, rated 800 W. It starts turning at 2 m/s, charges from 3 m/s, and it earns its keep in exactly the conditions that beat solar — night, cloud, and the blowy systems that sit on a forecast for days.
Straight up about the numbers: the 800 W rating is measured at 12 m/s — a 43 km/h wind. On a decent 7 m/s coastal breeze you will see about 300 W, running around the clock. That is the honest planning number: 300 W coming in hour after hour through the night adds up.
What It Actually Makes
| Wind speed | Feels like | Output |
|---|---|---|
| 4 m/s (14 km/h) | Light breeze | 45 W |
| 5 m/s (18 km/h) | Flags start to lift | 110 W |
| 6 m/s (22 km/h) | Steady inland breeze | 200 W |
| 7 m/s (25 km/h) | Decent coastal day | 300 W |
| 8 m/s (29 km/h) | Good working breeze | 420 W |
| 9 m/s (32 km/h) | Strong breeze | 560 W |
| 10 m/s (36 km/h) | Windy | 700 W |
| 11 m/s (40 km/h) | Very windy | 795 W |
| 12 m/s (43 km/h) | Rated wind speed | 800 W, peaking at 830 W |
That is the manufacturer's own measured curve, and we would rather you saw it before you bought. What the 800 W in the name means: that is the most this turbine makes, and only in a 43 km/h wind. On a normal breezy day — 7 m/s, about 25 km/h — it makes about 300 W. Work out your battery bank and cable from the table above, not from the number in the name.
What It Solves
- The winter energy deficit: when solar drops to a third of its summer take, a 24-hour source keeps the household bank out of the red.
- The remote homestead: four hours from town is a bad place for a flat bank. A second, independent source is resilience, not luxury.
- The farm's always-on loads: water pumps, electric fencing, cool room monitoring — steady draws that never sleep, matched to a source that never sleeps either.
- The telecom or monitoring site: base stations and island outposts are this machine's home turf — constant modest load, no grid, nobody on site.
- Cutting generator hours: every windy night is fuel not carted and engine hours not accrued.
Key Features
- 800 W rated at 12 m/s, peaking at 830 W — with the full measured curve published above.
- 24V or 48V: 24V for a cabin or motorhome bank; 48V halves the current for the same power, so long cable runs from a back-paddock mast get cheaper.
- 2 m three-blade rotor: reinforced nylon-fibre blades, 950 mm each, on a die-cast aluminium body.
- Starts early: turning at 2 m/s, charging from 3 m/s (11 km/h).
- Built to survive 50 m/s: 180 km/h. If your site regularly sees worse, this is the wrong machine and we would rather say so.
- Permanent magnet generator: 3-phase AC synchronous, NdFeB magnets, IP54, auto yaw into the wind.
- Two layers of protection: electromagnetic brake for overspeed, controller over-current protection plus dump load for overload.
- Kit or turbine only: the manufacturer's matched pure-wind WCMD MPPT controller with its dump load, or the turbine on its own if you already have a controller rated for it.
Kit, Or Turbine Only
The kit pairs the turbine with the manufacturer's matched pure-wind MPPT controller for your voltage — LWCMD800W-24V on 24V, LWCMD800W-48V on 48V — plus the dump-load resistor. Wind only: this controller has no solar input. Running panels as well? Give them their own solar charge controller on the same battery bank and the two charge side by side. One honesty note: the WCMD unit is rated to 800 W of wind and this turbine can peak at 830 W. The manufacturer pairs them regardless; we have queried the headroom and will publish the answer when we have it. Already sorted for control? Pick Turbine only.
What Else You'll Need
A mast in clean air, cable sized for the run, breakers and an isolator, and a bank worth feeding. Cable sizing depends on run length, voltage and current — that is your electrician's call. Browse bus bars, breakers and wiring in the Electrical Supplies collection, and the full controller range here.
Representative photos: the manufacturer supplies one set of photographs per turbine family, not per model. The M-800 you receive is this design, at the sizes in the spec table.
Limits
It is not 24/7 power. It makes power when the wind blows and none when it drops. Run it alongside solar and a properly sized bank; do not plan a household around the rated wattage.
The rated figure needs a 43 km/h wind. Most sites, most of the time, will see a fraction of 800 W. The output table on this page is the honest planning number.
The matched controller sits at the top of its rating. The WCMD kit controller is rated to 800 W of wind; this turbine peaks at 830 W. That pairing is the manufacturer's own recommendation, but we have asked them about the headroom and will publish their answer.
No charging current in amps is published for the matched controllers, and we will not invent one by dividing watts by volts. Do not size cable or breakers from the wattage in any product title.
Certification: CE marked by the manufacturer — see the Specs tab. CE is a European mark with no legal standing in Australia, and this unit does not yet carry an RCM mark.
It is not plug-and-play. Professional installation by a licensed electrician is a warranty condition — keep the invoice. The manufacturer treats blade damage from consistently extreme wind, and motor burnout after prolonged high-speed running, as case-by-case assessments rather than automatic cover.
Q & A
Will it really make 800 watts?
In a 43 km/h wind, yes — and it peaks at 830 W. On a typical usable breeze of 5 to 8 m/s you will see roughly 110 to 420 W, day and night. Work out what you will actually get from the output table above, not from the 800 W in the product name.
Does the kit controller take solar panels?
No. The WCMD kit controller is pure-wind and has no solar input. Run your panels through their own solar charge controller onto the same battery bank — the two charge side by side. Want wind and solar on the one controller? We sell wind-solar hybrid controllers separately — for a turbine this size the 600 W, 800 W and 1.2 kW wind-solar hybrid is the budget option and the Mars 1 kW–3 kW wind-solar hybrid MPPT is our pick. A hybrid takes the place of the kit controller, so take the turbine only and add it. See the Wind and Solar Controllers collection.
Is the cable from the turbine AC or DC?
AC. The turbine generates 3-phase AC; the rectifier inside the controller converts it to DC, and the DC charges the battery. The voltage on the tower cable rises with rotor speed — which is why the controller is built to take far more than the nominal battery voltage on its input. Cable selection and protection are your electrician's job.
Is 800 W enough to run a house?
Not on its own, and we will not pretend otherwise. It is a strong second source: several kilowatt hours on a windy day, delivered mostly at night and in weather when your solar is doing nothing. The right way to use it is wind plus solar into one bank sized for your loads.
24V or 48V — which should I run?
Match your existing bank. Starting fresh, 48V moves the same power at half the current, so the long run from a mast costs less in copper and losses. This turbine is supplied in 24V and 48V only; for a 12V caravan or boat bank, look at the M-400 or M-600 instead.
What happens to it in a storm?
The electromagnetic brake and the controller's overspeed protection wind it back, and the machine is built to survive 50 m/s (180 km/h). If your site regularly sees more than that, this is the wrong machine for it.
How long until it arrives?
Built to order and shipped from the factory. Delivery to Australia and New Zealand is priced to your door by postcode — put your postcode in above to see the sea price (4 to 6 weeks, allow up to 7 for WA and regional addresses) and the air price (around 2 to 3 weeks), then pick one at checkout. New Zealand freight shows in Australian dollars and is converted to NZ dollars at checkout. The kit arrives as separate boxes: the turbine, and the controller with its dump load.
Not sure this is the right turbine?
Read Choosing a Wind Turbine first. It covers which size suits your site and battery bank, vertical or horizontal, what wind will and will not do, and the parts you need around it.
Specs
| Specification | Detail | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Rated power | 800 W at 12 m/s (43.2 km/h) | ||
| Maximum power output | 830 W | ||
| Rated voltage | 24 V / 48 V | ||
| Maximum voltage output | 26.4 / 52.8 V (24 V / 48 V) | ||
| Start-up wind speed | 2 m/s (7.2 km/h) | ||
| Cut-in wind speed | 3 m/s (10.8 km/h) | ||
| Rated wind speed | 12 m/s (43.2 km/h) | ||
| Survival / safe wind speed | Up to 50 m/s (180 km/h) | ||
| Rotor diameter | 2 m (2000 mm) | ||
| Blade length | 950 mm | ||
| Number of blades | 3 | ||
| Blade material | Reinforced nylon fibre | ||
| Body material | Reinforced die-cast aluminium | ||
| Magnet material | NdFeB | ||
| Generator type | 3-phase AC permanent magnet synchronous generator | ||
| Generator speed | 500 rpm | ||
| Over-speed protection | Electromagnetic brake | ||
| Overload protection | Controller over-current protection + dump load | ||
| Wind direction adjustment | Auto yaw | ||
| Generator protection grade | IP54 | ||
| Working temperature | -20°C to +50°C | ||
| Working humidity | 0-90% RH (non-condensing) | ||
| Mount height | Ground: 6-10 m; rooftop: 3-6 m above the roofline | ||
| Design life | 20+ years | ||
| Warranty | 1 year | ||
| Colour | White | ||
| Net weight | 26 kg | ||
| Gross weight | 28 kg | ||
| Packing size | 1150 × 400 × 300 mm | ||
| Certification | CE marked to the Low Voltage Directive 2014/35/EU, EMC Directive 2014/30/EU and Machinery Directive 2006/42/EC. Tested to EN 61400-2 (small wind turbines), EN ISO 12100 and EN 60204-1. CE is a European mark and carries no legal standing in Australia. | ||
The Kit Controller
| Specification | LWCMD800W-24V (24V kit) | LWCMD800W-48V (48V kit) |
|---|---|---|
| Controller type | Pure-wind MPPT (no PV input at all) | |
| Battery voltage | 24 V | 48 V |
| Max wind power | 800 W | |
| Max wind input voltage | 180 V | 180 V |
| Wind charging method | Boost / buck / boost-buck MPPT | |
| Unloading | External unloading — dump-load resistor included with the controller; an enclosed resistance box is available as an optional extra | |
| Load output | None | |
| Protection | Over-voltage, over-current, reverse connection, over-speed and dump-load protection | |
| Display | Built-in LCD | |
| Working temperature | -20°C to +55°C | |
| Static loss | 1.8 W or less | |
| Warranty | 1 year | |
| Maximum battery charging current | Not specified by supplier — do not size cable or breakers from the wattage in the product title | |
The kit wires this way — wind only, no solar input:
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Wind Turbine FAQs
-
Start with two questions: how much wind does your site actually get, and how much room do you have.
Vertical turbines (X-300, and the H12 and HPRO series) start turning in about 2 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they suit rooftops, suburban blocks and anywhere the wind swirls and shifts. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. They scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W — and most of them survive heavier weather.
Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block. The largest models run at 220 V, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
Rated power is measured at 10–12 m/s. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
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No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will instantly destroy your equipment. You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.
-
You must match the turbine and its charge controller to the exact voltage of your existing battery bank:
- 12V: Best for compact mobile setups like caravans, 4WDs, and camper trailers.
- 24V: Great for medium-sized setups like off-grid sheds, cabins, and motorhomes.
- 48V: The gold standard for full off-grid home systems. Higher voltage means less energy loss through your wires and allows you to use thinner, safer cables.
-
When your battery bank becomes 100% fully charged, it stops accepting power. If a heavy wind storm hits at night when your batteries are full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will "free-spin" out of control and physically fly apart. The charge controller fixes this by automatically diverting that excess power into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
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No, that is the main benefit of the vertical design. A horizontal "propeller" turbine makes a chopping noise as each blade passes the mast. Our verticals — the X-300, H12 and HPRO series — take wind from any direction with no yaw mechanism, and the HPRO series runs on a magnetic-levitation generator, so most of what you hear is the wind itself. They suit suburban blocks, caravan parks and sites close to neighbours.
-
It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start rotating at about 1.5 m/s — a light breeze. Charging starts once the wind clears the cut-in speed of about 3.5 m/s, and output climbs from there — the rated figure is measured at 13 m/s (about 47 km/h). A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries.
-
You should connect the wind turbine to a battery bank first, via a dedicated charge controller, rather than directly to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.
🔋 The Correct Wiring SequenceTo safely capture and use the power, your setup must follow this exact order:
- Wind Turbine: Generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC power as wind speeds change.
- Hybrid/Wind Charge Controller: Converts the unstable AC power into steady DC power. It also protects the turbine from over-speeding by applying an electronic brake during high winds.
- Battery Bank (12V/24V/48V): Acts as a buffer to store the energy. It absorbs sudden power spikes from wind gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
- Off-Grid Inverter: Connects to the battery, converting the stored DC battery power into standard AC power for your household appliances.
⚠️ Why You Cannot Skip the Battery
- Unstable Voltage: Wind speeds change second by second. Without a battery to absorb and smooth out these massive fluctuations, a direct-connect inverter would constantly turn off and error out.
- Turbine Destruction: When a battery is full or disconnected, a wind turbine loses its "load" (resistance). Without that resistance, the blades can spin out of control in high winds and physically destroy the unit. The charge controller uses the battery connection to safely dump excess power and slow the turbine down.
-
Wiring & Installation Requirement: This wind turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, solar controller, or home inverter. To operate safely, it must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load prevents the turbine from over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are fully charged.
-
It is almost always one of three common installation issues. Check them in order:
1. Your multimeter is set to DC (the most common mistake).
- The issue: measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts.
- The reality: wind turbines generate 3-phase AC power directly from the stator.
- The fix: switch your multimeter to AC volts (V~). Testing these wires on a DC setting gives a false reading near zero.
2. The turbine is stalling because of a short.
- The issue: the blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up.
- The reality: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller’s internal braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
- The fix: completely disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it suddenly frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.
3. Voltage drop from thin cables.
- The issue: thin wire run a long way from the tower to the battery shed.
- The reality: thin solar or automotive cable over a long run (20 metres or more) loses the power as heat in the wire before it reaches the controller.
- The fix: use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG.
-
Because the number on the box is a peak rating, not a promise. A turbine’s rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — for these models that is 13 m/s, about 47 km/h — and most sites see far less most of the time. Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second with the wind. That is physics, not a fault.
Where these turbines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through weather that shuts solar down. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different issue — see the 0 W question below.
-
Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it's rarely a faulty unit. It's usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done. See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting & Installation Guide for the complete walkthrough, or contact us and we'll help you sort it out.
-
Short answer: wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order — battery first, then solar, then wind. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common “spinning but 0 W” problem.
Correct installation comes down to isolation and the right sequence:
- Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar
- Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop
- Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last
See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.
