Wind Turbine FAQs
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Start with two questions: how much wind does your site actually get, and how much room do you have.
Vertical turbines (X-300, T-500W, and the H12 and HPRO series) start turning in about 2 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they suit rooftops, suburban blocks and anywhere the wind swirls and shifts. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
Horizontal turbines (S-400W, M-600W, M-800W, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. They scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W — and most of them survive heavier weather.
Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block. The largest models run at 220 V, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
Rated power is measured at 10–12 m/s. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
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No.Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will instantly destroy your equipment. Youmustwire the turbine into a dedicatedWind/Solar Hybrid MPPT Controller with an integrated Dump Load Resistor. The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.
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You must match the turbine and its hybrid controller to the exact voltage of your existing battery bank:
- 12V: Best for compact mobile setups like caravans, 4WDs, and camper trailers.
- 24V: Great for medium-sized setups like off-grid sheds, cabins, and motorhomes.
- 48V: The gold standard for full off-grid home systems. Higher voltage means less energy loss through your wires and allows you to use thinner, safer cables.
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When your battery bank becomes 100% fully charged, it stops accepting power. If a heavy wind storm hits at night when your batteries are full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will "free-spin" out of control and physically fly apart. A hybrid controller fixes this by automatically diverting that excess power into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
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No,that is the main benefit of the vertical design. Traditional horizontal "propeller" turbines create a high-pitched, annoying "chopping" noise. Our ST Tulip and Flower series utilise advanced omnidirectional maglev-style bearings, making them virtually silent and completely vibration-free, all you will hear is the wind. They are perfect for suburban blocks, tight caravan parks, and areas close to neighbours.
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It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start rotating at about 1.5 m/s — a light breeze. Charging starts once the wind clears the cut-in speed of about 3.5 m/s, and output climbs from there — the rated figure is measured at 13 m/s (about 47 km/h). A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries.
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You should connect the wind turbine to a battery bank first, via a dedicated charge controller, rather than directly to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.
🔋 The Correct Wiring SequenceTo safely capture and use the power, your setup must follow this exact order:
- Wind Turbine: Generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC power as wind speeds change.
- Hybrid/Wind Charge Controller: Converts the unstable AC power into steady DC power. It also protects the turbine from over-speeding by applying an electronic brake during high winds.
- Battery Bank (12V/24V/48V): Acts as a buffer to store the energy. It absorbs sudden power spikes from wind gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
- Off-Grid Inverter: Connects to the battery, converting the stored DC battery power into standard AC power for your household appliances.
⚠️ Why You Cannot Skip the Battery
- Unstable Voltage: Wind speeds change second by second. Without a battery to absorb and smooth out these massive fluctuations, a direct-connect inverter would constantly turn off and error out.
- Turbine Destruction: When a battery is full or disconnected, a wind turbine loses its "load" (resistance). Without that resistance, the blades can spin out of control in high winds and physically destroy the unit. The charge controller uses the battery connection to safely dump excess power and slow the turbine down.
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Wiring & Installation Requirement:This wind turbine generates 3-phase AC power andcannotbe connected directly to a battery, solar controller, or home inverter. To operate safely, it must run through a dedicatedWind/Solar Hybrid MPPT Controller with an integrated Dump Load Resistor. The dump load prevents the turbine from over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are fully charged.
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It is almost always one of three common installation issues. Check them in order:
1. Your multimeter is set to DC (the most common mistake).
- The issue: measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts.
- The reality: wind turbines generate 3-phase AC power directly from the stator.
- The fix: switch your multimeter to AC volts (V~). Testing these wires on a DC setting gives a false reading near zero.
2. The turbine is stalling because of a short.
- The issue: the blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up.
- The reality: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller’s internal braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
- The fix: completely disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it suddenly frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.
3. Voltage drop from thin cables.
- The issue: thin wire run a long way from the tower to the battery shed.
- The reality: thin solar or automotive cable over a long run (20 metres or more) loses the power as heat in the wire before it reaches the controller.
- The fix: use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG.
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Because the number on the box is a peak rating, not a promise. A turbine’s rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — for these models that is 13 m/s, about 47 km/h — and most sites see far less most of the time. Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second with the wind. That is physics, not a fault.
Where these turbines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through weather that shuts solar down. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different issue — see the 0 W question below.
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Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it's rarely a faulty unit. It's usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done. See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting & Installation Guide for the complete walkthrough, or contact us and we'll help you sort it out.
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Short answer: wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order — battery first, then solar, then wind. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common “spinning but 0 W” problem.
Correct installation comes down to isolation and the right sequence:
- Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar
- Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop
- Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last
See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.
L2-2000W Horizontal Wind Turbine & Controller 48V
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L2-2000W Horizontal Wind Turbine & Controller 48V
When the panels can't carry the property, wind picks up the shift.
A few panels run a shack. A property is a different animal: the pressure pump, the shed lights, the freezer, the fences and cameras — and a battery bank that spends every night and every grey winter week going backwards while the generator does the catching up. Fuel runs, oil changes, and that drone across the paddock at dinner time.
The L2-2000 is the workhorse of our horizontal-axis range — 75 kg of turbine swinging a 3.5 m rotor on three reinforced FRP blades. It starts turning in a 2 m/s breath of wind and begins charging at 3 m/s, feeding a 48 V bank through the hours and the weather that panels cannot: night, winter, and the windy fronts that flatten solar output for days.
Straight up about the numbers: the 2,000 W rating is measured at 10 m/s — a 36 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. On a decent breeze you will see a fraction of that, working around the clock. One honesty note on top: the manufacturer's spec line says 2,000 W at 10 m/s, but the same manufacturer's own power curve reads 1,730 W at 10 m/s and does not cross 2,000 W until about 11 m/s. Both figures are theirs, printed as supplied. Work from the output table below, not from the number in the product name.
What It Actually Makes
| Wind speed | Feels like | Output |
|---|---|---|
| 4 m/s (14 km/h) | Light breeze | 100 W |
| 5 m/s (18 km/h) | Flags start to lift | 219 W |
| 6 m/s (22 km/h) | Steady inland breeze | 395 W |
| 7 m/s (25 km/h) | Decent coastal day | 640 W |
| 8 m/s (29 km/h) | Good working breeze | 950 W |
| 9 m/s (32 km/h) | Fresh breeze | 1,339 W |
| 10 m/s (36 km/h) | Rated wind speed | 1,730 W |
| 11 m/s (40 km/h) | Very windy | 2,035 W |
| 12 m/s (43 km/h) | Very windy — curve peak | 2,085 W |
That is the manufacturer's own measured curve, and we would rather you saw it before you bought. At a good steady 7 m/s this turbine makes about 640 W — not 2,000 W. Running day and night, that adds up. Work out your battery bank and cable from the output table above, not from the number in the product name.
What It Solves
- The property-sized overnight drain: fridges, freezers, pumps and cameras pull amps all night while the panels do nothing. A working breeze feeds the bank the whole time you are asleep.
- The grey winter fortnight: the fronts that kill your solar for days are exactly the weather this machine works hardest in.
- Less generator time: at property scale, every windy day is litres of diesel you have not carted and hours you have not put on the genset.
- The wind-solar hybrid site: pick the hybrid kit and one controller runs the turbine and a PV array together into the same 48 V bank.
- The shed a long way from the switchboard: workshops, pump sheds and outstations where running mains would cost more than the whole system.
Key Features
- 3.5 m rotor, three blades: reinforced FRP blades on a reinforced die-cast aluminium body — the biggest swept area of any 48 V model we sell.
- Starts early: turning at 2 m/s, charging from 3 m/s (11 km/h).
- 48 V system: matches the bank most serious off-grid properties already run.
- Built to survive 50 m/s: that is 180 km/h. If your site regularly sees worse, this is the wrong machine for it and we would rather say so.
- Permanent magnet generator: 3-phase AC synchronous with NdFeB magnets — no brushes to wear, no exciter current to waste. IP54 protected.
- Two layers of protection: electromagnetic brake for overspeed, controller over-current protection plus dump load for overload.
- Roof or ground mount: 3–6 m above the roofline, or 6–10 m on a ground mast.
- Two controller choices: the HCM wind-solar hybrid (runs panels too) or the pure-wind WW-series MPPT — pick either as a kit, or take the turbine only.
Kit, Or Turbine Only
Pick With Hybrid Controller and the kit pairs the turbine with the manufacturer's matched wind-solar hybrid unit, the LHCM2-1/48V. The hybrid part matters: wind charges through MPPT, and the same box takes a solar array on a PWM input — one controller runs both, which is how most properties end up wiring these anyway. One honest caveat, spelled out in the Specs tab: the manufacturer publishes only series-level figures for this controller, not model-level ones.
Never going to run solar through it? Pick With Pure-Wind Controller and the kit ships the manufacturer's pure-wind MPPT unit instead — the WW20-48-48, with its dump-load resistor box included. Wind only, no PV input at all — and it is the one controller on this page with a properly published current rating: 42 A maximum output. Full details in the Specs tab.
Already have a controller rated for a 2 kW turbine at 48 V? Pick Turbine only.
What Else You'll Need
A turbine on a pole is half a system. The other half is a mast in clean air, cable sized for the run, breakers and an isolator, a dump load (included with both kit controllers) and a battery bank to feed. Cable sizing depends on run length, voltage and current — that is your electrician's call, not a line on a product page. Browse bus bars, breakers and wiring in the Electrical Supplies collection, and the full controller range here.
Representative photos: the manufacturer supplies one set of photographs per turbine family, not per model. The L2-2000 you receive is this design, at the sizes in the spec table.
Q & A
Will it really make 2,000 watts?
In strong wind, yes — the manufacturer's curve peaks at 2,085 W at 12 m/s. But be aware the spec line and the curve disagree slightly at the rated speed: the spec says 2,000 W at 10 m/s, the curve reads 1,730 W at 10 m/s and crosses 2,000 W nearer 11 m/s. Both are the manufacturer's own figures and we publish them as printed. On a typical usable breeze of 5 to 8 m/s you will see roughly 220 to 950 W, all day and all night. Work out what you will actually get from the output table above, not from the number in the product name.
Does the kit controller take solar panels?
The hybrid one does. The LHCM2-1/48V runs the turbine on MPPT and takes a solar array on a PWM input at the same time — the manufacturer's series sheet rates the HCM range for 1–3 kW of wind and 1–3 kW of solar. The pure-wind WW20-48-48 has no PV input at all — pick it only if panels will never hang off this controller.
Why don't you publish a charging current in amps for the hybrid controller?
Because the supplier has not published one, and we will not calculate one by dividing watts by volts — that is how people end up sizing breakers off a guess. Do not size cable or breakers from the wattage in any product title. The pure-wind WW20-48-48 is the exception on this page: its own datasheet prints 42 A rated input and 42 A maximum output current, so those are in its table below. For the hybrid, when the manufacturer gives us the amp figure, it goes in the table.
Is the cable from the turbine AC or DC?
AC. The turbine generates 3-phase AC, and the rectifier inside the controller converts it to DC to charge the battery. A generator is not a battery: the voltage on that cable rises with rotor speed, which is exactly why the matched controller is built to take far more than the nominal battery voltage on its input. Cable selection and protection are your electrician's job.
Can I mount it on the roof?
Yes — 3 to 6 m above the roofline, or 6 to 10 m on a ground mast. This is a 75 kg machine with a 3.5 m rotor, so have someone competent confirm the structure and the mounting before it goes up. Height is output: turbulence near buildings eats the wind before the blades see it, so the extra metres of clean air pay for themselves.
What happens to it in a storm?
The electromagnetic brake and the controller's overspeed protection wind it back, and the machine is built to survive 50 m/s (180 km/h). If your site regularly sees more than that, do not put this turbine on it.
What is the warranty position?
Twelve months. Professional installation by a licensed electrician is a condition of it — keep the electrician's invoice with your paperwork. Be aware the manufacturer treats blade damage from consistently extreme wind, and motor burnout after prolonged high-speed running, as case-by-case assessments rather than automatic cover.
How long until it arrives?
Built to order and sea-freighted — allow 6 to 8 weeks. Delivery is free to Australia and New Zealand. The turbine arrives as three packages (the longest is 1.75 m); the kit controller ships in its own packaging on top of that.
Specs
| Specification | Detail | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Rated power | 2,000 W at 10 m/s (36 km/h) | ||
| Maximum power output | 2,085 W | ||
| Rated voltage | 48 V | ||
| Maximum voltage output | 52.8 V | ||
| Start-up wind speed | 2 m/s (7.2 km/h) | ||
| Cut-in wind speed | 3 m/s (10.8 km/h) | ||
| Rated wind speed | 10 m/s (36 km/h) | ||
| Survival / safe wind speed | Up to 50 m/s (180 km/h) | ||
| Wind wheel / rotor diameter | 3.5 m (3500 mm) | ||
| Blade length | 1.68 m (1680 mm) | ||
| Number of blades | 3 | ||
| Blade material | Reinforced FRP | ||
| Body material | Reinforced die-cast aluminium | ||
| Magnet material | NdFeB | ||
| Generator type | 3-phase AC permanent magnet synchronous generator | ||
| Over-speed protection | Electromagnetic brake | ||
| Overload protection | Controller over-current protection + dump load | ||
| Wind direction adjustment | Auto yaw | ||
| Generator protection grade | IP54 | ||
| Working temperature | -20°C to +50°C | ||
| Working humidity | 0-90% RH (non-condensing) | ||
| Mount height | Ground: 6-10 m; rooftop: 3-6 m above the roofline | ||
| Design life | 20+ years | ||
| Warranty | 1 year | ||
| Colour | White | ||
| Net weight | 75 kg | ||
| Gross weight | 90 kg | ||
| Packing | 3 packages: 750 × 370 × 370 mm + 1750 × 230 × 320 mm + 740 × 520 × 50 mm | ||
| Certification | CE marked to the Low Voltage Directive 2014/35/EU, EMC Directive 2014/30/EU and Machinery Directive 2006/42/EC. Tested to EN 61400-2 (small wind turbines), EN ISO 12100 and EN 60204-1. CE is a European mark and carries no legal standing in Australia. | ||
The Hybrid Kit Controller — LHCM2-1/48V
One honesty note before the table: the manufacturer publishes no specification for this individual model — only for the HCM series it belongs to. Every figure below is a series figure, printed as supplied.
| Specification | LHCM2-1/48V (series figures) |
|---|---|
| Controller type | Wind-solar hybrid (wind MPPT + PV PWM) |
| Rated wind power | 1 kW – 3 kW (series) |
| Rated solar power | 1 kW – 3 kW (series) |
| Battery voltage | 48 V (series supports 24 / 48 / 96 / 120 / 192 V, one out of five, customisable) |
| Max wind input voltage | 180 V below 96 V systems, 350 V above (except special parameters) |
| Max solar input voltage | 180 V below 96 V systems, 350 V above (except special parameters) |
| Maximum battery charging current | Not specified by supplier — do not size cable or breakers from the wattage in the product title |
| Wind charging mode | MPPT (boost / buck / boost & buck; the manufacturer does not state which build this model is) |
| Solar charging mode | PWM |
| Wind unloading method | Internal and external resistance unloading, subject to the actual configuration |
| Protection | Battery: over-discharge, over-charge, anti-reverse connection · Wind: over rotate speed, over voltage, over current · Manual brake function |
| Load output | None |
| Display | LCD |
| Communications | Optional RS232, RS485, GPRS or anemometer (one out of four, purchased separately) |
| Operating temperature & humidity | −20°C to +55°C / 35-85% RH (non-condensing) |
| Quiescent power drain | 3 W or less |
| Controller size | 460 × 400 × 165.4 mm |
| Net weight | 14 kg (16.5 kg gross) |
The Pure-Wind Controller Option — WW20-48-48
| Specification | WW20-48-48 |
|---|---|
| Controller type | Pure-wind MPPT (no PV input at all), step-up |
| Rated input power | 2 kW |
| Rated input voltage | 56 Vdc |
| Wind input voltage range | 12–64 Vdc; cut-in voltage factory setting 12 Vdc, adjustable |
| Rated input current | 42 A |
| Maximum output current | 42 A (printed by the manufacturer for this exact model) |
| Battery voltage | 48 Vdc |
| Over-current brake | 50 A factory setting; adjustable 0–50 A; full dump and recovery after 10 min |
| Manual brake | Press and hold for 5 s to fully dump; manual recovery required |
| Unloading | Separate dump-load resistor box, included |
| Display | LCD |
| Communications | RS485 built in; optional RS232 / RJ45 / GPRS / Bluetooth / Zigbee |
| Lightning protection | Yes |
| Efficiency | 92% or better |
| Static loss | Under 5 W |
| Working temperature | -20°C to +40°C |
| Cooling / installation | Natural cooling, wall-mounted, IP42 |
| Controller size / weight | 300 × 375 × 145 mm, 10 kg |
| Dump load box | 300 × 400 × 210 mm, 9 kg |
| Warranty | 1 year |
| Packing | 2 cardboard boxes, 495 × 380 × 255 mm each, 23 kg gross |
Watch Me
Manufacturer footage of the L-series horizontal-axis design this model belongs to.
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Wind Turbine FAQs
-
Start with two questions: how much wind does your site actually get, and how much room do you have.
Vertical turbines (X-300, T-500W, and the H12 and HPRO series) start turning in about 2 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they suit rooftops, suburban blocks and anywhere the wind swirls and shifts. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
Horizontal turbines (S-400W, M-600W, M-800W, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. They scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W — and most of them survive heavier weather.
Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block. The largest models run at 220 V, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
Rated power is measured at 10–12 m/s. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
-
No.Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will instantly destroy your equipment. Youmustwire the turbine into a dedicatedWind/Solar Hybrid MPPT Controller with an integrated Dump Load Resistor. The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.
-
You must match the turbine and its hybrid controller to the exact voltage of your existing battery bank:
- 12V: Best for compact mobile setups like caravans, 4WDs, and camper trailers.
- 24V: Great for medium-sized setups like off-grid sheds, cabins, and motorhomes.
- 48V: The gold standard for full off-grid home systems. Higher voltage means less energy loss through your wires and allows you to use thinner, safer cables.
-
When your battery bank becomes 100% fully charged, it stops accepting power. If a heavy wind storm hits at night when your batteries are full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will "free-spin" out of control and physically fly apart. A hybrid controller fixes this by automatically diverting that excess power into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
-
No,that is the main benefit of the vertical design. Traditional horizontal "propeller" turbines create a high-pitched, annoying "chopping" noise. Our ST Tulip and Flower series utilise advanced omnidirectional maglev-style bearings, making them virtually silent and completely vibration-free, all you will hear is the wind. They are perfect for suburban blocks, tight caravan parks, and areas close to neighbours.
-
It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start rotating at about 1.5 m/s — a light breeze. Charging starts once the wind clears the cut-in speed of about 3.5 m/s, and output climbs from there — the rated figure is measured at 13 m/s (about 47 km/h). A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries.
-
You should connect the wind turbine to a battery bank first, via a dedicated charge controller, rather than directly to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.
🔋 The Correct Wiring SequenceTo safely capture and use the power, your setup must follow this exact order:
- Wind Turbine: Generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC power as wind speeds change.
- Hybrid/Wind Charge Controller: Converts the unstable AC power into steady DC power. It also protects the turbine from over-speeding by applying an electronic brake during high winds.
- Battery Bank (12V/24V/48V): Acts as a buffer to store the energy. It absorbs sudden power spikes from wind gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
- Off-Grid Inverter: Connects to the battery, converting the stored DC battery power into standard AC power for your household appliances.
⚠️ Why You Cannot Skip the Battery
- Unstable Voltage: Wind speeds change second by second. Without a battery to absorb and smooth out these massive fluctuations, a direct-connect inverter would constantly turn off and error out.
- Turbine Destruction: When a battery is full or disconnected, a wind turbine loses its "load" (resistance). Without that resistance, the blades can spin out of control in high winds and physically destroy the unit. The charge controller uses the battery connection to safely dump excess power and slow the turbine down.
-
Wiring & Installation Requirement:This wind turbine generates 3-phase AC power andcannotbe connected directly to a battery, solar controller, or home inverter. To operate safely, it must run through a dedicatedWind/Solar Hybrid MPPT Controller with an integrated Dump Load Resistor. The dump load prevents the turbine from over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are fully charged.
-
It is almost always one of three common installation issues. Check them in order:
1. Your multimeter is set to DC (the most common mistake).
- The issue: measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts.
- The reality: wind turbines generate 3-phase AC power directly from the stator.
- The fix: switch your multimeter to AC volts (V~). Testing these wires on a DC setting gives a false reading near zero.
2. The turbine is stalling because of a short.
- The issue: the blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up.
- The reality: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller’s internal braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
- The fix: completely disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it suddenly frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.
3. Voltage drop from thin cables.
- The issue: thin wire run a long way from the tower to the battery shed.
- The reality: thin solar or automotive cable over a long run (20 metres or more) loses the power as heat in the wire before it reaches the controller.
- The fix: use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG.
-
Because the number on the box is a peak rating, not a promise. A turbine’s rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — for these models that is 13 m/s, about 47 km/h — and most sites see far less most of the time. Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second with the wind. That is physics, not a fault.
Where these turbines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through weather that shuts solar down. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different issue — see the 0 W question below.
-
Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it's rarely a faulty unit. It's usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done. See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting & Installation Guide for the complete walkthrough, or contact us and we'll help you sort it out.
-
Short answer: wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order — battery first, then solar, then wind. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common “spinning but 0 W” problem.
Correct installation comes down to isolation and the right sequence:
- Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar
- Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop
- Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last
See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.
