Hybrid MPPT Wind & Solar Controller 12V-48V, Bluetooth

Wind and solar fighting over the same battery bank.

You have got a turbine on a pole and panels on the shed roof, and both of them want to charge the same bank. Run them into separate controllers and they argue: one sees the voltage the other has just pushed up, decides the battery is full and backs off, and you finish the day with less than either would have made on its own.

The turbine side is the part that bites. A turbine with nowhere to send its output on a windy night has nothing holding it back. It overspeeds, the noise goes up, and then it is a bearing, a blade, or the whole head off the pole – and you are up a tower in the dark sorting it out.

This is the box that sits between the two. Turbine onto the three-phase U, V and W terminals, solar onto S+ and S-, battery onto B+ and B-, and the dump load resistor onto D+ and D- so the turbine always has somewhere to dump. It works out whether it is looking at a 12V/24V or a 24V/48V system on its own, and it will charge sealed lead-acid, gel, ternary lithium or LiFePO4.

Two things to know before you order. It talks to your phone over Bluetooth, not Wi-Fi, and the supplier's own packaging says Android only – the Wi-Fi module is an optional extra that is not in this box and is not sold as an option here. And it is rated IP30, which is dust-resistant with no water rating at all, so it mounts inside in the shed, the van or the cabin. It does not go up the pole with the turbine.

What It Does

• Runs both inputs at once: three-phase wind on U, V and W, solar on S+ and S-, into one battery bank, so the two sources stop cancelling each other out.
• Brakes the turbine for you: the supplier states an automatic brake that comes in at 30 V AC on the 12V/24V models and 60 V AC on the 24V/48V models, with the excess going out to the dump load resistor on D+ and D-.
• Sorts out the system voltage itself: one option auto-detects 12V or 24V, the other auto-detects 24V or 48V. Pick the one that covers your bank.
• Handles four battery chemistries: sealed lead-acid, gel, ternary lithium and LiFePO4, with a custom setting on top. Every cut-in and cut-out voltage is in the second table under Specs.
• Shows you what is actually happening: the LCD cycles wind watts, solar watts, battery voltage and controller temperature, and the app adds daily, 30-day and lifetime kWh counters.
• Feeds a small DC load directly: L+ and L- give a switched 24 V or 48 V DC output at up to 10 A for lights, a gate or a camera. Your inverter does not go here – it goes on the battery.

Key Features

• Dump load resistor in the box: the packaging lists controller, dump load, cable, screws and nuts, an MC4 spanner and the manual. You are not hunting for a brake resistor after it lands.
• Bluetooth, Android only: the supplier prints "Built-in Bluetooth" and "Android only" on its own artwork. No iOS support is claimed by the supplier and none is claimed here.
• Wi-Fi and GPRS are optional modules: the packaging lists both as optional extras. Neither is included, and neither is offered as a variant on this page.
• Eleven terminals, labelled on the case: D+ B+ B- S+ S- U V W L+ L- D-, with an icon printed over each group so you are not guessing.
• Coated circuit board: the supplier states the internal board is sprayed against dust, moisture and static.
• Passive cooling: finned heatsink down one side. No fan, so there is no fan to seize up in a dusty shed.
• Four-button menu: ENTER, UP, DOWN and ESC on the front, so the settings are reachable without a phone.
• Compact enough to mount inside: 145 mm wide, 171 mm high and 69 mm deep over the heatsink, measured off the supplier's own dimension drawing.
• CE, FCC and RoHS marks on the case: the marks are printed on the housing. They are marks only – no certificate was sighted for this controller, and we are not going to pretend one was.
• Ships in streetlight mode by default: the DC load output is set to switch with dusk and dawn out of the box. If you want it on permanently, change the mode in the menu.

What Else You'll Need

• A way to disconnect the turbine: a 3-pin Anderson plug on the three turbine phases lets you unplug the head to drop the pole for maintenance, or pull it off the van, without cutting anything.
• Protection on the battery side: a DC mini circuit breaker and a battery isolator switch so you can kill the bank before you put a spanner near it.
• Somewhere for the cables to land: good 48V bus bars are genuinely hard to find. The 48V 400A bus bar set takes M8 and M10 lugs and keeps the joins tidy.
• Cable and lugs: flexible copper cable and a lug crimping tool. Be straight with yourself on sizing though – cable size depends on your run length, voltage and current. Our range suits 48V and shorter runs. On a 12V or 24V build with a long run, work it out properly or ask your sparky.
• The rest of it: the Wind Turbine Electrical Supplies collection has the breakers, isolators, bus bars, terminals and tools that go around a build like this.

Turbine Spinning But Showing 0W?

It is almost never a faulty turbine or controller. Read the 0W troubleshooting & correct installation guide before you assume something is broken.

Typical Off-Grid Wiring Layout

Q & A

Does it connect by Wi-Fi or by Bluetooth?

It is Bluetooth, and it is worth being blunt about that because this style of controller is widely listed as a Wi-Fi unit. The supplier's own artwork says "Built-in Bluetooth", the spec sheet lists communication as "Bluetooth (point to point)", and every variant code on this listing carries "With Bluetooth". The packaging separately lists a Wi-Fi module and a GPRS module as optional extras – they are not in the box and they are not sold as an option here. If you specifically need Wi-Fi so you can see the system from off site, this is not the unit for that on its own.

Will the app work on an iPhone?

The supplier states Android only, in writing, on its own marketing image. We have no evidence of an iOS app and we are not going to imply one. If you are an iPhone household, buy this for the LCD on the front and treat the app as a bonus you may not get.

What is the app called?

We cannot tell you, and that is an honest answer rather than a dodge. The supplier does not name it on the box, in the listing, or on any image we can read – the screenshot they supply just shows a device called "Controller1". We have not been able to confirm which app it is or that it is still being maintained.

Is the dump load included, and do I actually need it?

Yes, it is included – the packaging lists "Dump load" as one of the five things in the box, and it is the green finned resistor you can see in the photos. And yes, you need it. A turbine that is spinning with nowhere to put its output is not being held back by anything. The controller brakes by dumping the excess into that resistor across D+ and D-. Leave it off and you have removed the thing that stops the turbine running away. The supplier does not state the resistance or the wattage rating of the resistor supplied, so if you are running a turbine at the top of the range, check it suits before you commission.

Which option do I need, and what size breaker do I run?

Pick the voltage option first: Auto 12V 24V if your bank is 12V or 24V, Auto 24V 48V if it is 24V or 48V. Then pick the wattage that covers your turbine and array.

Size your breaker off the amps, not the watts. The wattage in the option name is what the controller will accept from each input – it is not what your turbine will make, and it is not a current rating. The supplier gives a maximum current of 41.7 A for the 1000 W option on 12V/24V, 20.8 A for the 1000 W option on 24V/48V, and 31.25 A for the 1500 W option on 24V/48V.

For the 1200 W option, the supplier's spec sheet has no column at all. There is no maximum current, no charge current and no input power figure published for it. We are not going to make one up by interpolating between the ones either side, because a breaker sized off a guessed number is a fire risk. If you want the 1200 W option, size the cable and protection with your electrician off the measured output – or choose the 1000 W or 1500 W option, which are both specified.

Is it really MPPT, or is it a PWM unit with an MPPT sticker?

Here is exactly what we can and cannot stand behind. The case is printed "MPPT Wind Solar Hybrid Controller", the box says "MPPT control algorithms", and the spec sheet gives a specific MPPT boost-up threshold on the wind input – 17 V AC on the 12V/24V models, 34 V AC on the 24V/48V models – which is a real, testable number rather than a marketing word. The solar side is given as a Voc and Vmp window, which is the shape you would expect from a tracker.

What we do not have is an efficiency curve, a tracking-efficiency figure or any independent test data. The supplier quotes conversion efficiency of "greater than 98%", but that is a conversion figure, not a tracking figure, and no curve was supplied to back it. So: the wind input is explicitly described by the manufacturer as MPPT boost charging, and we have sighted no evidence to the contrary – but we have not verified MPPT tracking ourselves and we are not going to tell you we have.

Can I mount it outside, next to the turbine?

No. It is IP30, which means it keeps out solid objects down to 2.5 mm and offers no water protection whatsoever. Not rain, not spray, not hosing down. It mounts indoors – shed, van, cabin, pump house – or inside a properly sealed enclosure. Run the cable from the pole to the controller, not the other way round.

My DC load output does nothing during the day. Is it faulty?

Almost certainly not. The supplier states it defaults to streetlight mode, which means the L+ and L- output is meant to switch on at dusk and off at dawn. That is the factory setting, not a fault. Go into the menu and change the operating mode if you want the output on permanently.

Can I reset it if I get the settings wrong?

No, and this one matters. The supplier's own note reads: no one-key restore function, please do not modify preset parameters. There is no factory reset. If you go into the custom battery setting and change the cut-off voltages, there is no button that puts them back. Write down every value before you change it. The default setpoints for all four battery types are in the second table under Specs, so you have a written record either way.

Can I run my inverter off it?

Not off the controller's load output – that is rated 10 A, which is 240 W at 24V or 480 W at 48V, and it is meant for lights and small DC gear. Your inverter connects to the battery bank, through its own breaker or fuse, exactly as it would on a solar-only build. The controller charges the bank; the inverter draws from the bank.

How long does delivery take?

10–14 days from the day you order – not from dispatch. Allow up to 3 weeks, and longer again for regional and remote addresses. Shipping is free to Australia and New Zealand.

Specs

About the 1200 W option: the supplier's specification sheet covers models rated 1200W60, 1600W80, 2000W100 and 3000W150 – which map to the 1000 W and 1500 W options sold here. There is no column for the 1200 W option, so its maximum current, charge current and input power are genuinely unpublished. We have left those rows as "Not specified by supplier" rather than interpolating a number, because a breaker sized off a guess is a fire risk.

A note on the wattage in the name: "Wind1000W Solar1000W" is what the controller will accept from each input. It is not what your turbine will produce, and it is not a current rating. Size cable and protection off the amp figures above.

Battery Charge and Cut-Off Setpoints

These are the voltages the controller charges to and cuts off at, by battery type and system voltage. Check them against what your battery manufacturer specifies before you commission, and write down anything you change – there is no factory reset.

Supplier's own warning: no one-key restore function – do not modify the preset parameters unless you have written down what they were.

Watch Me

We do not have a video for this controller yet. When we get one that shows a real install rather than a supplier animation, it will go here.

In the meantime, the two things worth reading before you wire anything up are the wind turbine 0W troubleshooting and installation guide, and the wiring layout diagram in the Features tab. Between them they cover most of what goes wrong on a first hybrid build – which is nearly always wiring or commissioning, not a faulty controller.