H2000 Vertical Wind Turbine — 2000 W at 11 m/s, 48 V
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Built for wind that won't sit still.
Around buildings, trees and ridgelines the wind rarely arrives clean. It gusts, swirls and changes direction by the minute, and a conventional tail-vane turbine spends much of its life swinging round to chase it. Meanwhile the battery bank it was meant to feed keeps draining, and the generator gets another run.
The H2000 is an H-type vertical axis wind turbine: five high-speed aluminium alloy blades — or three, if you pick the three-blade option — standing upright around a disc-type ironless generator, with an assist wind wheel — the drum-shaped starting rotor you can see in the photos — at its centre as standard. The rotor is 2.1 m across and 3.2 m tall. Because it is vertical it takes wind from any direction, with nothing to swing, hunt or wear; the manufacturer calls it 360° automatic windward orientation. It starts turning at 2.5 m/s and starts charging at 3 m/s.
Straight up about the numbers: the 2000 W rating is measured at 11 m/s — a 40 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon breeze. The manufacturer has not published a power curve for this model, so we cannot show you what it makes at 5 to 7 m/s. We could calculate one and present it as measured — plenty of sellers do exactly that — but we would rather tell you it is missing. On an ordinary breeze expect a fraction of the rated figure, working around the clock. Treat it as a charging assist for your solar, not a replacement for it.
What It Solves
- The shifting wind: gusts that swap direction every few minutes are what vertical rotors are for. There is nothing to turn, so nothing is wasted turning.
- The overnight drain: the fridge and the lights pull amps all night while the panels do nothing. Wind keeps feeding the bank while you sleep.
- The grey winter week: the fronts that flatten your solar for days are exactly the weather this machine works hardest in.
- The generator bill: every windy day the bank stays up is fuel not burnt and a service interval pushed back.
- The gear nobody visits: pumps, gates, telemetry and lighting on a back block — steady small loads a long way from a powerpoint.
Key Features
- Takes wind from any direction: 360° automatic windward orientation — no yaw mechanism to hunt in shifting gusts or wear out.
- Five blades or three: pick the five-blade or the lower-priced three-blade rotor — the assist wind wheel is fitted at the centre as standard on both.
- Starts early: 2.5 m/s (9 km/h) to start turning, 3 m/s (10.8 km/h) to start charging.
- Built to survive 50 m/s: that is 180 km/h. If your site regularly sees worse, this is the wrong machine for it and we would rather say so.
- Disc-type ironless generator: NdFeB magnets, IP54 protected, electromagnetic brake.
- 48 V system: made for a 48 V battery bank — the voltage most serious off-grid banks now run.
- Kit or turbine only: the manufacturer's matched pure-wind WW20-48-48 MPPT controller with its dump-load box, with WiFi or Ethernet (RJ45) remote monitoring as factory-fitted options — or the turbine on its own if you already have a controller rated for it.
Kit, Or Turbine Only
The kit pairs the turbine with the manufacturer's matched pure-wind MPPT controller, the WW20-48-48, from the WW series. Wind only, no PV input at all — full details in the Specs tab. Pick 5 blades or 3 blades first, then the package. Four ways to buy: Turbine only, With Pure-Wind Controller, Controller + WiFi or Controller + Ethernet (RJ45). WiFi and RJ45 are factory-fitted remote monitoring — one or the other, chosen when you order, and neither can be added later.
Want wind and solar on the one controller? We sell wind-solar hybrid controllers separately and they take the place of the kit controller — pick Turbine only and add one. Our pick is the Mars 1 kW–3 kW wind-solar hybrid MPPT with a 2 kW wind rating; see the Wind and Solar Controllers collection.
Already have a controller rated for this turbine? Pick Turbine only.
What Else You'll Need
A turbine on a pole is half a system. The other half is a mast in clean air, cable sized for the run, breakers and an isolator, a dump load (included with the kit controllers) and a battery bank to feed. Cable sizing depends on run length, voltage and current — that is your electrician's call, not a line on a product page. Browse bus bars, breakers and wiring in the Electrical Supplies collection, and the full controller range here. Want to see how it goes together before you buy? Download the H series installation guide (PDF) — site choice, foundation, assembly step by step, wiring order, maintenance and troubleshooting, straight from the manufacturer.
Photos: these are the manufacturer's installation photos of the H series, and a few also show a different turbine model on a neighbouring mast. Most show the five-blade rotor. The H2000 you receive has the rotor you choose — five blades or three — with the assist wheel at its centre, at the sizes in the spec table.
Limits
It is not 24/7 power. It makes power when the wind blows and none when it drops. Wind supplements solar here, it does not replace it — keep the panels and size the bank properly.
The 2000 W rating needs a 40 km/h wind. That is the manufacturer's figure at 11 m/s. On the light breeze most sites see for most of the year you will get a fraction of it, working around the clock.
There is no power curve for this machine. The manufacturer has not published a wind-speed output table for the H series, so we cannot show you what it makes at 5 to 7 m/s. We would rather tell you that than print a calculated table as though it were measured.
It is built to survive 50 m/s (180 km/h). If your site regularly sees worse than that, this is the wrong machine for it and we would rather say so than sell you one.
It is not plug-and-play. This is a heavy machine: the manufacturer rates it for a 6 to 12 m ground mast or 1 to 5 m above the roofline, so have your installer confirm any roof structure can carry it. Professional installation by a licensed electrician is a warranty condition — keep the invoice — and the manufacturer treats blade damage from consistently extreme wind, and motor burnout after prolonged high-speed running, as case-by-case assessments rather than automatic cover.
Q & A
Will it really make 2000 watts?
At 11 m/s — a 40 km/h wind — that is the manufacturer's rating. On a normal usable breeze you will see a fraction of that, working day and night. The manufacturer has not published a power curve for the H series, so we will not print an output table we cannot source — size your expectations conservatively, and treat the machine as an around-the-clock assist for your solar.
Why a vertical axis turbine instead of a normal one?
A horizontal turbine must face the wind, so on a turbulent site it spends its time swinging back and forth chasing gusts. An H-type vertical rotor takes wind from any direction without moving anything — no yaw mechanism, nothing to hunt, nothing to wear. In clean, steady, open-country wind a horizontal machine of the same rating is usually the better harvester; in the chopped-up wind around buildings and obstacles, the vertical layout earns its keep. If your site is open and laminar, look at our L-series horizontals instead — honestly.
Does the kit controller take solar panels?
No. The WW20-48-48 kit controller is pure-wind and has no PV input at all. Run your panels through their own solar charge controller onto the same battery bank — the two charge side by side. Want them on the one box? Pick Turbine only and add one of our separately sold hybrid controllers — our pick is the Mars 1 kW–3 kW wind-solar hybrid MPPT with a 2 kW wind rating. See the Wind and Solar Controllers collection.
Why don't you publish a charging current in amps?
We will not calculate one by dividing watts by volts — that is how people end up sizing breakers off a guess. The WW20-48-48's own manual prints 42 A rated input current, and that figure is in its table in the Specs tab. Do not size cable or breakers from the wattage in any product title.
Is the cable from the turbine AC or DC?
AC. The turbine generates AC, and the rectifier inside the controller converts it to DC to charge the battery. A generator is not a battery: the voltage on that cable rises with rotor speed, which is exactly why the matched controller is built to take far more than the nominal battery voltage on its input. Cable selection and protection are your electrician's job.
Can I mount it on the roof?
Yes — the manufacturer rates it for 1 to 5 m above the roofline, or 6 to 12 m on a ground mast. Two things to weigh up: height is output, because turbulence near buildings eats the wind before the blades see it; and this is a heavy machine, so have your installer confirm the structure can carry it.
What happens to it in a storm?
The electromagnetic brake and the controller's overspeed protection wind it back, and the machine is built to survive 50 m/s (180 km/h). If your site regularly sees more than that, do not put this turbine on it.
What is the warranty position?
Twelve months. Professional installation by a licensed electrician is a condition of it — keep the electrician's invoice with your paperwork. Be aware the manufacturer treats blade damage from consistently extreme wind, and motor burnout after prolonged high-speed running, as case-by-case assessments rather than automatic cover.
How long until it arrives?
Built to order and sea-freighted — allow 4 to 6 weeks (up to 7 for WA and regional addresses). Delivery is quoted to your exact location before you order — use the Delivery & Price Calculator above, or call 0400 333 898, or email support@bushline.com.au with your postcode and nearest town for a delivered price. The turbine ships as two boxes, and the kit controller adds its own carton — plan access and a second set of hands (or a machine) for delivery day.
Not sure this is the right turbine?
Read Choosing a Wind Turbine first. It covers which size suits your site and battery bank, vertical or horizontal, what wind will and will not do, and the parts you need around it.
What monitoring does the controller have, and what is not in the box?
The WW20-48-48 controller has its own display screen and a built-in RS485 port as standard. The manufacturer states the RS485 port is for on-site use with a computer through an RS485-to-USB adapter (any brand; not included). For remote monitoring pick Controller + WiFi, or Controller + Ethernet (RJ45) for a cabled router connection — it is factory-fitted, one or the other, and cannot be added later. The customer uses a computer app with no account and no ongoing fee; the manufacturer states it can see the controller's data and can adjust its settings remotely, so a settings change does not need a site visit. The manufacturer also states the controller charges on battery voltage alone, so it works alongside a lithium battery's own management system without a data link. In the box: the manufacturer states the controller ships with its Anderson plugs and the cables to connect the dump load. Not in the box: the battery cables and the turbine-to-controller cable — your electrician supplies those to suit the run, or the manufacturer can supply the turbine cable on request (ask us when you order). The plug rating is not yet specified by the supplier.
Specs
Download: H series installation guide (PDF) · WW20-48-48 controller user manual (PDF)
| Specification | Detail | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Rated power | 2000 W at 11 m/s (39.6 km/h) | ||
| Maximum power output | Not specified by supplier | ||
| Rated voltage | 48 V | ||
| Maximum voltage output | Not specified by supplier | ||
| Start-up wind speed | 2.5 m/s (9 km/h) | ||
| Cut-in (charging) wind speed | 3 m/s (10.8 km/h) | ||
| Rated wind speed | 11 m/s (39.6 km/h) | ||
| Survival / safe wind speed | Up to 50 m/s (180 km/h) | ||
| Rotor diameter | 2.1 m (2100 mm) | ||
| Blade length / rotor height | 3.2 m (3200 mm) | ||
| Number of blades | 5 high-speed blades, or 3 on the three-blade option — both with an assist wind wheel at the centre | ||
| Blade material | Aluminium alloy | ||
| Body material | Aluminium alloy | ||
| Magnet material | NdFeB | ||
| Generator type | Disc-type ironless generator | ||
| Rated generator speed | 200 rpm | ||
| Control mode / over-speed protection | Electromagnetic brake | ||
| Overload protection | Controller over-current protection + dump load | ||
| Wind direction adjustment | 360° automatic windward orientation — no yaw mechanism | ||
| Generator protection grade | IP54 | ||
| Mounting flange | DN125 (from the manufacturer's drawing) | ||
| Working temperature | -20°C to +50°C | ||
| Working humidity | 0–90% RH (non-condensing) | ||
| Mount height | Ground mast: 6–12 m; rooftop: 1–5 m above the roofline | ||
| Design life | 20+ years (manufacturer's stated service life) | ||
| Warranty | 1 year | ||
| Colour | White (other colours to custom order) | ||
| Net weight | Not specified by supplier | ||
| Gross weight | Not specified by supplier | ||
| Packing | Not specified by supplier | ||
| Certification | CE marked to the Low Voltage Directive 2014/35/EU, EMC Directive 2014/30/EU and Machinery Directive 2006/42/EC. Tested to EN 61400-2 (small wind turbines), EN ISO 12100 and EN 60204-1. CE is a European mark and carries no legal standing in Australia. | ||
No power curve appears in the manufacturer's documentation for this model. Rated output at rated wind speed is the only output figure we hold, and the table above is everything the manufacturer publishes.
The Pure-Wind Controller Option
| Specification | WW20-48-48 |
|---|---|
| Controller type | Pure-wind MPPT, step-up (no PV input at all) |
| Rated input power | 2 kW |
| Rated input voltage | 48 Vdc |
| Wind input voltage range | 12-64 Vdc; cut-in voltage factory-set at 12 Vdc, adjustable |
| Rated input current | 42 A |
| Maximum output current | 42 A — published by the manufacturer for this exact model |
| Battery voltage | 48 Vdc |
| Manual brake | Press and hold 5 s to fully dump; manual recovery required |
| Over-current brake | 50 A factory setting; adjustable 0-50 A; full dump and recovery after 10 min |
| Optional over-wind-speed brake | 18 m/s factory setting; adjustable 0-30 m/s; recovery below 15 m/s after 10 min |
| Optional over-speed brake | 500 rpm factory setting; adjustable 0-1000 rpm; recovery after 10 min |
| Display | LCD |
| Communications | RS485 built in; optional WiFi or RJ45 Ethernet, factory-fitted — one or the other |
| Lightning protection | Yes |
| Efficiency | 92% or better |
| Static loss | Under 2 W |
| Working temperature / humidity | -20°C to +40°C / 0-90% (non-condensing) |
| Noise | 65 dB or less |
| Cooling / installation | Forced air cooling, wall-mounted, IP42 |
| Controller size / weight | 300 × 375 × 145 mm, 10 kg |
| Dump load box | Separate box, 300 × 400 × 210 mm, 9 kg — included |
| Warranty | 1 year |
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Wind Turbine FAQs
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Start with two questions: how much wind does your site actually get, and how much room do you have.
Vertical turbines (X-300, and the H12 and HPRO series) start turning in about 2 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they suit rooftops, suburban blocks and anywhere the wind swirls and shifts. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. They scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W — and most of them survive heavier weather.
Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block. The largest models run at 220 V, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
Rated power is measured at 10–12 m/s. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
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No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will instantly destroy your equipment. You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.
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You must match the turbine and its charge controller to the exact voltage of your existing battery bank:
- 12V: Best for compact mobile setups like caravans, 4WDs, and camper trailers.
- 24V: Great for medium-sized setups like off-grid sheds, cabins, and motorhomes.
- 48V: The gold standard for full off-grid home systems. Higher voltage means less energy loss through your wires and allows you to use thinner, safer cables.
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When your battery bank becomes 100% fully charged, it stops accepting power. If a heavy wind storm hits at night when your batteries are full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will "free-spin" out of control and physically fly apart. The charge controller fixes this by automatically diverting that excess power into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
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No, that is the main benefit of the vertical design. A horizontal "propeller" turbine makes a chopping noise as each blade passes the mast. Our verticals — the X-300, H12 and HPRO series — take wind from any direction with no yaw mechanism, and the HPRO series runs on a magnetic-levitation generator, so most of what you hear is the wind itself. They suit suburban blocks, caravan parks and sites close to neighbours.
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It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start rotating at about 1.5 m/s — a light breeze. Charging starts once the wind clears the cut-in speed of about 3.5 m/s, and output climbs from there — the rated figure is measured at 13 m/s (about 47 km/h). A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries.
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You should connect the wind turbine to a battery bank first, via a dedicated charge controller, rather than directly to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.
🔋 The Correct Wiring SequenceTo safely capture and use the power, your setup must follow this exact order:
- Wind Turbine: Generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC power as wind speeds change.
- Hybrid/Wind Charge Controller: Converts the unstable AC power into steady DC power. It also protects the turbine from over-speeding by applying an electronic brake during high winds.
- Battery Bank (12V/24V/48V): Acts as a buffer to store the energy. It absorbs sudden power spikes from wind gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
- Off-Grid Inverter: Connects to the battery, converting the stored DC battery power into standard AC power for your household appliances.
⚠️ Why You Cannot Skip the Battery
- Unstable Voltage: Wind speeds change second by second. Without a battery to absorb and smooth out these massive fluctuations, a direct-connect inverter would constantly turn off and error out.
- Turbine Destruction: When a battery is full or disconnected, a wind turbine loses its "load" (resistance). Without that resistance, the blades can spin out of control in high winds and physically destroy the unit. The charge controller uses the battery connection to safely dump excess power and slow the turbine down.
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Wiring & Installation Requirement: This wind turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, solar controller, or home inverter. To operate safely, it must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load prevents the turbine from over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are fully charged.
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It is almost always one of three common installation issues. Check them in order:
1. Your multimeter is set to DC (the most common mistake).
- The issue: measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts.
- The reality: wind turbines generate 3-phase AC power directly from the stator.
- The fix: switch your multimeter to AC volts (V~). Testing these wires on a DC setting gives a false reading near zero.
2. The turbine is stalling because of a short.
- The issue: the blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up.
- The reality: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller’s internal braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
- The fix: completely disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it suddenly frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.
3. Voltage drop from thin cables.
- The issue: thin wire run a long way from the tower to the battery shed.
- The reality: thin solar or automotive cable over a long run (20 metres or more) loses the power as heat in the wire before it reaches the controller.
- The fix: use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG.
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Because the number on the box is a peak rating, not a promise. A turbine’s rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — for these models that is 13 m/s, about 47 km/h — and most sites see far less most of the time. Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second with the wind. That is physics, not a fault.
Where these turbines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through weather that shuts solar down. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different issue — see the 0 W question below.
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Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it's rarely a faulty unit. It's usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done. See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting & Installation Guide for the complete walkthrough, or contact us and we'll help you sort it out.
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Short answer: wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order — battery first, then solar, then wind. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common “spinning but 0 W” problem.
Correct installation comes down to isolation and the right sequence:
- Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar
- Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop
- Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last
See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.













