Wind Turbine Calculator Sent Pair a Wind Turbine to your needs.

Twelve quick questions and we'll point you at the two or three turbines in the range that fit your set-up. Nothing to sign up for. If none of them fit, we'll say so. Already know what you want? Skip to the Quote Form.

Step 1 · Your SiteWhere you are and how windy it is
1. Where are you? Your postcode or zip code goes on your quote.
2. Cyclone Region?
3. What's the Site Like?
4. How Windy is it, Honestly? Pick the one closest to your site, then look up your average wind below.

Wind Speed Calculator

Type your town, suburb or postcode / zip and your country — anywhere in the world — then tap Calculate Now.

Wind: NASA POWER 20-year average (2001–2020). Place search: © OpenStreetMap contributors.

How High will you Mount it? 6 m
Average Wind at That Height 22 km/h (6 m/s)
Step 2 · Your Set-UpWhat it powers and where it mounts
5. What are you Powering?
6. Where will it be Mounted?
7. How High can you Get it? Height is what makes a turbine earn its keep — the published figures assume it's up in clean air.
8. Is Space or Looks a Concern? Say yes and, where a vertical turbine comes in the same size as a horizontal one, we'll show you the vertical first. That's about fit and looks, not output — height still decides output for any turbine, because turbulence near buildings eats the wind before the blades see it.
Step 3 · Your PowerHow much you use and your batteries
9. Do you Know How Much Power you Use a Day? Skip it if you don't — most people don't. If you do, it sharpens the size we suggest.
Your Daily Use So Far0 kWh a day

Add what you run. Every figure can be changed — the one on your own appliance’s label or plate beats ours.

A rough guide from typical figures. It works out the energy you use in a day — not what size inverter or battery you need.

Where These Figures Come from
    10. What Voltage is your Battery Bank?
    11. How Big is the Battery Bank? Make sure you have picked your battery voltage in question 10 first. Rough is fine. The battery is sized to the controller's charging current, not the turbine's peak — so this goes on your quote rather than deciding the turbine.
    The Same Sizes in kWh (Often Said as “kW”)
    Battery Size12 V24 V48 V
    Under 200 AhUnder 2.4 kWhUnder 4.8 kWhUnder 9.6 kWh
    200 to 500 Ah2.4 to 6 kWh4.8 to 12 kWh9.6 to 24 kWh
    500 to 1,000 Ah6 to 12 kWh12 to 24 kWh24 to 48 kWh
    Over 1,000 AhOver 12 kWhOver 24 kWhOver 48 kWh
    12. Wind on its Own, or Wind and Solar?

    You can buy any turbine without using this. It's here to save you buying the wrong one. Want the long version first? Read our Guide to Choosing a Wind Turbine.

    Get a Quote for your Set-Up

    Tell us what you've got and we'll come back to you by email with the right turbine, controller and delivery to your door. Or email us direct: quotes@bushline.com.au

    Goes straight to us at BushLine. No mailing list, no follow-up calls.

    Wind Turbine FAQs

      • Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
      • Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
      • Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
      • Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
      1. The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
      2. Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
      1. No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
      2. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
      • You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
      • The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.

    • Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:

      • 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
      • 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
      • 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
      • When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
      1. If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
      • The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
      • Yes, you need one.
      • Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
      • Why a Horizontal is Louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
      • Why a Vertical is Usually Quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
      1. What we won't Tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
      2. The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
      • On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
      • It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
      • Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
      1. The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
      • A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
      • No — small turbines are built to spin fast. The smaller the rotor, the faster it has to turn to keep its blade tips up with the wind: the M-400's 1.35 m rotor runs at about 800 rpm, the M-600 and M-800 at about 500, the big G-series at 300.
      • In the manufacturer's words, the high rpm is a design necessity, not a defect. A slower generator would need a bigger stator and more magnets and copper — heavier and dearer.
      • They start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and make power right across the wind range — just less when the wind is light. What you get depends on your site and how high you mount it.
      • Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
      1. Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

      The Correct Order:

      • 1. Wind Turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
      • 2. Hybrid or Wind Charge Controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
      • 3. Battery Bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
      • 4. Off-Grid Inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.

      Why you Cannot Skip the Battery:

      1. Unstable Voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
      2. Turbine Damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
      1. This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
      • It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
      • Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
      • Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.

    • It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.

      Quick Checks — Tick as You Go

      • Is the Meter Set to AC Volts (V~)?
      • Does it Spin Freely Once Disconnected from the Controller?
      • Is the Cable from the Mast Heavy Enough for the Run?

      1. The Multimeter is Set to DC — The Most Common Mistake.

      1. Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
      • Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).

      2. The Turbine is Stalling Because of a Short.

      1. The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
      • Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.

      3. Voltage Drop from Thin Cable.

      1. Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
      • Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
      • The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
      • A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
      • Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
      • As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
      • Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
      1. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
      • Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
      • It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
      • See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting Guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
      • Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
      • Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
      • Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
      • Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
      • See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.
    1 16

    H2000 Vertical Wind Turbine — 2000 W at 11 m/s, 48 V

    $6,345.00 AUD
    Blades
    Package

    Delivering Outside Australia or New Zealand? We quote delivery to your door before you order — use the calculator above or email quotes@bushline.com.au. Your quote tells you whether import duty, customs charges and tax on arrival are included or payable by you.

    Delivery & Price Calculator

    Make Sure your Turbine Pairs Up with your System

    Run the Wind Turbine Calculator first. It asks about your battery voltage, daily use, mounting and site, then shows which turbines in the range suit you best.

    Open the Wind Turbine Calculator

    1 · Where is it Going?

    Delivery

    Buying two or more turbines (5% off)? Send this form and we'll quote it.

    Enter your postcode to see the delivery price (sea freight, incl. GST).

    2 · Your Package

    Rotor
    The price shown on the page is for the machine itself; delivery is priced to your address.

    The controller package includes the WW controller and its dump load (the box that safely burns off power your batteries can't take), plus a standard RS485 data port for checking the system on site (it needs a USB adapter, not included). See the WW Controller

    Buying 2 or more? You get 5% off every turbine package.

    3 · Add-Ons Tap to Add, Tap Again to Remove

    Remote Monitoring Port (Controller Packages Only - One Port, Fitted at the Factory)
    Lets you check the controller from a computer, over WiFi or a network cable (RJ45 plug).
    Cable from Turbine to Controller (6 mm², Three-Phase, per Turbine)
    Tower (Height & Price in your Quote)
    Your System (AUD)
    Package
    Cable
    Tower
    Delivery to your DoorEnter your Postcode
    Estimated Total

    Buying two or more turbines (5% off)? Send this form and we'll quote it.

    All prices include GST. We come back with one delivered price for your address, and that quote locks it in.

    4 · Your Details

    So the carrier can book the delivery with you.
    Can you Unload the Delivery on Site?
    Road in
    Brand, voltage, size in amp hours (Ah) or kilowatt hours (kWh, often said as kW), and the most charge current it takes. Not sure? Leave it blank and we'll ask.
    Estimated Total

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    Tracking

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    Simply enter the tracking number sent to your email to see exactly where your package is and when it is estimated to arrive.

    Note: It may take 24-48 hours for tracking information to update after your order has been dispatched.

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    Built for Wind That won't Sit Still.

    Around buildings, trees and ridgelines the wind rarely arrives clean. It gusts, swirls and changes direction by the minute, and a conventional tail-vane turbine spends much of its life swinging round to chase it. Meanwhile the battery bank it was meant to feed keeps draining, and the generator gets another run.

    The H2000 is an H-type vertical axis wind turbine: five high-speed aluminium alloy blades — or three, if you pick the three-blade option — standing upright around a disc-type ironless generator, with an assist wind wheel — the drum-shaped starting rotor you can see in the photos — at its centre as standard. The rotor is 2.1 m across and 3.2 m tall. Because it is vertical it takes wind from any direction, with nothing to swing, hunt or wear; the manufacturer calls it 360° automatic windward orientation. It starts turning at 2.5 m/s and starts charging at 3 m/s.

    Straight Up About the Numbers: the 2000 W rating is measured at 11 m/s — a 40 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon breeze. The manufacturer has not published a power curve for this model, so we cannot show you what it makes at 5 to 7 m/s. We could calculate one and present it as measured — plenty of sellers do exactly that — but we would rather tell you it is missing. On an ordinary breeze expect a fraction of the rated figure, working around the clock. Treat it as a charging assist for your solar, not a replacement for it.

    🔋 Needs a Battery Bank: With its controller, this kit charges a 48 V battery bank. It won't feed grid-tied solar with no batteries.

    What it Solves
    • The Shifting Wind: gusts that swap direction every few minutes are what vertical rotors are for. There is nothing to turn, so nothing is wasted turning.
    • The Overnight Drain: the fridge and the lights pull amps all night while the panels do nothing. Wind keeps feeding the bank while you sleep.
    • The Grey Winter Week: the fronts that flatten your solar for days are exactly the weather this machine works hardest in.
    • The Generator Bill: every windy day the bank stays up is fuel not burnt and a service interval pushed back.
    • The Gear Nobody Visits: pumps, gates, telemetry and lighting on a back block — steady small loads a long way from a powerpoint.
    Key Features
    • Takes Wind from Any Direction: 360° automatic windward orientation — no yaw mechanism to hunt in shifting gusts or wear out.
    • Five Blades or Three: pick the five-blade or the lower-priced three-blade rotor — the assist wind wheel is fitted at the centre as standard on both.
    • Starts Early: 2.5 m/s (9 km/h) to start turning, 3 m/s (10.8 km/h) to start charging.
    • Built to Survive 50 m/s: that is 180 km/h. If your site regularly sees worse, this is the wrong machine for it and we would rather say so.
    • Disc-Type Ironless Generator: NdFeB magnets, IP54 protected, electromagnetic brake.
    • 48 V System: made for a 48 V battery bank — the voltage most serious off-grid banks now run.
    • Kit or Turbine Only: the manufacturer's matched pure-wind WW20-48-48 MPPT controller with its dump-load box, with WiFi or Ethernet (RJ45) remote monitoring as factory-fitted options — or the turbine on its own if you already have a controller rated for it.
    Kit, or Turbine Only

    The kit pairs the turbine with the manufacturer's matched pure-wind MPPT controller, the WW20-48-48, from the WW series. Wind only, no PV input at all — full details in the Specs tab. Pick 5 Blades or 3 Blades first, then the package. Four ways to buy: Turbine Only, With Pure-Wind Controller, Controller + WiFi or Controller + Ethernet (RJ45). WiFi and RJ45 are factory-fitted remote monitoring — one or the other, chosen when you order, and neither can be added later.

    Want wind and solar on the one controller? We sell wind-solar hybrid controllers separately and they take the place of the kit controller — pick Turbine Only and add one. Our pick is the Mars 1 kW–3 kW wind-solar hybrid MPPT with a 2 kW wind rating; see the Wind and Solar Controllers collection.

    Already have a controller rated for this turbine? Pick Turbine Only.

    What Else you'll Need

    A turbine on a pole is half a system. The other half is a mast in clean air, cable sized for the run, breakers and an isolator, a dump load (included with the kit controllers) and a battery bank to feed. Cable sizing depends on run length, voltage and current — that is your electrician's call, not a line on a product page. Browse bus bars, breakers and wiring in the Electrical Supplies collection, and the full controller range here. Want to see how it goes together before you buy? Download the H series installation guide (PDF) — site choice, foundation, assembly step by step, wiring order, maintenance and troubleshooting, straight from the manufacturer.

    Photos: these are the manufacturer's installation photos of the H series, and a few also show a different turbine model on a neighbouring mast. Most show the five-blade rotor. The H2000 you receive has the rotor you choose — five blades or three — with the assist wheel at its centre, at the sizes in the spec table.

    Limits

    It is not 24/7 power. It makes power when the wind blows and none when it drops. Wind supplements solar here, it does not replace it — keep the panels and size the bank properly.

    The 2000 W rating needs a 40 km/h wind. That is the manufacturer's figure at 11 m/s. On the light breeze most sites see for most of the year you will get a fraction of it, working around the clock.

    There is no power curve for this machine. The manufacturer has not published a wind-speed output table for the H series, so we cannot show you what it makes at 5 to 7 m/s. We would rather tell you that than print a calculated table as though it were measured.

    It is built to survive 50 m/s (180 km/h). If your site regularly sees worse than that, this is the wrong machine for it and we would rather say so than sell you one.

    It is not plug-and-play. This is a heavy machine: the manufacturer rates it for a 6 to 12 m ground mast or 3 to 5 m above the roofline, so have your installer confirm any roof structure can carry it. Professional installation by a licensed electrician is a warranty condition — keep the invoice — and the manufacturer treats blade damage from consistently extreme wind, and motor burnout after prolonged high-speed running, as case-by-case assessments rather than automatic cover.

    Q & A

    Will it Really Make 2000 Watts?

    At 11 m/s — a 40 km/h wind — that is the manufacturer's rating. On a normal usable breeze you will see a fraction of that, working day and night. The manufacturer has not published a power curve for the H series, so we will not print an output table we cannot source — size your expectations conservatively, and treat the machine as an around-the-clock assist for your solar.

    Why a Vertical Axis Turbine Instead of a Normal One?

    A horizontal turbine must face the wind, so on a turbulent site it spends its time swinging back and forth chasing gusts. An H-type vertical rotor takes wind from any direction without moving anything — no yaw mechanism, nothing to hunt, nothing to wear. In clean, steady, open-country wind a horizontal machine of the same rating is usually the better harvester; in the chopped-up wind around buildings and obstacles, the vertical layout earns its keep. If your site is open and laminar, look at our L-series horizontals instead — honestly.

    Does the Kit Controller Take Solar Panels?

    No. The WW20-48-48 kit controller is pure-wind and has no PV input at all. Run your panels through their own solar charge controller onto the same battery bank — the two charge side by side. Want them on the one box? Pick Turbine Only and add one of our separately sold hybrid controllers — our pick is the Mars 1 kW–3 kW wind-solar hybrid MPPT with a 2 kW wind rating. See the Wind and Solar Controllers collection.

    Why don't you Publish a Charging Current in Amps?

    We will not calculate one by dividing watts by volts — that is how people end up sizing breakers off a guess. The WW20-48-48's own manual prints 42 A rated input current, and that figure is in its table in the Specs tab. Do not size cable or breakers from the wattage in any product title.

    Is the Cable from the Turbine AC or DC?

    AC. The turbine generates AC, and the rectifier inside the controller converts it to DC to charge the battery. A generator is not a battery: the voltage on that cable rises with rotor speed, which is exactly why the matched controller is built to take far more than the nominal battery voltage on its input. Cable selection and protection are your electrician's job.

    Can I Mount it on the Roof?

    Yes — the manufacturer rates it for 3 to 5 m above the roofline, or 6 to 12 m on a ground mast. Two things to weigh up: height is output, because turbulence near buildings eats the wind before the blades see it; and this is a heavy machine, so have your installer confirm the structure can carry it.

    What Happens to it in a Storm?

    The electromagnetic brake and the controller's overspeed protection wind it back, and the machine is built to survive 50 m/s (180 km/h). If your site regularly sees more than that, do not put this turbine on it.

    What is the Warranty Position?

    Twelve months. Professional installation by a licensed electrician is a condition of it — keep the electrician's invoice with your paperwork. Be aware the manufacturer treats blade damage from consistently extreme wind, and motor burnout after prolonged high-speed running, as case-by-case assessments rather than automatic cover.

    How Long Until it Arrives?

    Built to order and sea-freighted — allow 4 to 6 weeks (up to 7 for WA and regional addresses). Delivery is quoted to your exact location before you order — use the Delivery & Price Calculator above, or call 0400 333 898, or email support@bushline.com.au with your postcode and nearest town for a delivered price. The turbine ships as two boxes, the longer one 3.27 m, and the kit controller adds its own carton — plan access and a second set of hands (or a machine) for delivery day.

    Not Sure This is the Right Turbine?

    Read Choosing a Wind Turbine first. It covers which size suits your site and battery bank, vertical or horizontal, what wind will and will not do, and the parts you need around it.

    What Monitoring does the Controller Have, and What is Not in the Box?

    The WW20-48-48 controller has its own display screen and a built-in RS485 port as standard. The manufacturer states the RS485 port is for on-site use with a computer through an RS485-to-USB adapter (any brand; not included). For remote monitoring pick Controller + WiFi, or Controller + Ethernet (RJ45) for a cabled router connection — it is factory-fitted, one or the other, and cannot be added later. The customer uses a computer app with no account and no ongoing fee; the manufacturer states it can see the controller's data and can adjust its settings remotely, so a settings change does not need a site visit. The manufacturer also states the controller charges on battery voltage alone, so it works alongside a lithium battery's own management system without a data link. In the box: the manufacturer states the controller ships with its Anderson plugs and the cables to connect the dump load. Not in the box: the battery cables and the turbine-to-controller cable — your electrician supplies those to suit the run, or the manufacturer can supply the turbine cable on request (ask us when you order). The plug rating is not yet specified by the supplier.

    Specs

    Download: H series installation guide (PDF) · WW20-48-48 controller user manual (PDF)

    Specification Detail
    Rated Power 2000 W at 11 m/s (39.6 km/h)
    Maximum Power Output 2300 W
    Rated Voltage 48 V
    Maximum Voltage Output Not Specified by Supplier
    Start-Up Wind Speed 2.5 m/s (9 km/h)
    Cut-in (Charging) Wind Speed 3 m/s (10.8 km/h)
    Rated Wind Speed 11 m/s (39.6 km/h)
    Survival / Safe Wind Speed Up to 50 m/s (180 km/h)
    Rotor Diameter 2.1 m (2100 mm)
    Blade Length / Rotor Height 3.2 m (3200 mm)
    Number of Blades 5 high-speed blades, or 3 on the three-blade option — both with an assist wind wheel at the centre
    Blade Material Aluminium Alloy
    Body Material Aluminium Alloy
    Magnet Material NdFeB
    Generator Type Disc-Type Ironless Generator
    Rated Generator Speed 188 rpm
    Control Mode / Over-Speed Protection Electromagnetic Brake
    Overload Protection Controller Over-Current Protection + Dump Load
    Wind Direction Adjustment 360° Automatic Windward Orientation — No Yaw Mechanism
    Generator Protection Grade IP54
    Mounting Flange DN125 (From the Manufacturer's Drawing)
    Working Temperature -20°C to +50°C
    Working Humidity 0–90% RH (Non-Condensing)
    Mount Height Ground Mast: 6–12 m; Rooftop: 3–5 m Above the Roofline
    Design Life 20+ Years (Manufacturer's Stated Service Life)
    Warranty 1 Year
    Colour White (Other Colours to Custom Order)
    Net Weight 280 kg (5 Blades) · 250 kg (3 Blades)
    Gross Weight 366 kg (5 Blades) · 330 kg (3 Blades)
    Packing Two boxes — 2.28 m × 975 × 1110 mm and 3.27 m × 345 × 480 mm
    Certification CE marked to the Low Voltage Directive 2014/35/EU, EMC Directive 2014/30/EU and Machinery Directive 2006/42/EC. Tested to EN 61400-2 (small wind turbines), EN ISO 12100 and EN 60204-1. CE is a European mark and carries no legal standing in Australia.

    The manufacturer gives the three-blade rotor the same figures as the five-blade, except weight: same hub, arms and assembly, two fewer blades.

    No wind-speed power curve appears in the manufacturer's documentation for this model. The manufacturer gives the rated output at rated wind speed and a maximum output of 2300 W; its table of output against rotor speed (rpm, not wind speed) is in the installation guide.

    The Pure-Wind Controller Option
    Specification WW20-48-48
    Controller Type Pure-Wind MPPT, Step-Up (No PV Input at All)
    Rated Input Power 2 kW
    Rated Input Voltage 48 Vdc
    Wind Input Voltage Range 12-64 Vdc; Cut-in Voltage Factory-Set at 12 Vdc, Adjustable
    Rated Input Current 42 A
    Maximum Output Current 42 A — published by the manufacturer for this exact model
    Battery Voltage 48 Vdc
    Manual Brake Press and hold 5 s to fully dump; manual recovery required
    Over-Current Brake 50 A factory setting; adjustable 0-50 A; full dump and recovery after 10 min
    Optional Over-Wind-Speed Brake 18 m/s factory setting; adjustable 0-30 m/s; recovery below 15 m/s after 10 min
    Optional Over-Speed Brake 500 rpm factory setting; adjustable 0-1000 rpm; recovery after 10 min
    Display LCD
    Communications RS485 built in; optional WiFi or RJ45 Ethernet, factory-fitted — one or the other
    Lightning Protection Yes
    Efficiency 92% or Better
    Static Loss Less than 5 W (catalogue); the manual prints less than 2 W — both as printed
    Working Temperature / Humidity -20°C to +40°C / 0-90% (Non-Condensing)
    Noise 65 dB or Less
    Cooling / Installation Forced Air Cooling, Wall-Mounted, IP42
    Controller Size / Weight 300 × 375 × 145 mm, 10 kg
    Dump Load Box Separate box, 300 × 400 × 210 mm, 9 kg — included
    Warranty 1 Year

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    Wind Turbine FAQs

      • Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
      • Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
      • Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
      • Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
      1. The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
      2. Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
      1. No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
      2. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
      • You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
      • The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.

    • Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:

      • 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
      • 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
      • 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
      • When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
      1. If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
      • The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
      • Yes, you need one.
      • Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
      • Why a Horizontal is Louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
      • Why a Vertical is Usually Quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
      1. What we won't Tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
      2. The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
      • On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
      • It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
      • Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
      1. The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
      • A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
      • No — small turbines are built to spin fast. The smaller the rotor, the faster it has to turn to keep its blade tips up with the wind: the M-400's 1.35 m rotor runs at about 800 rpm, the M-600 and M-800 at about 500, the big G-series at 300.
      • In the manufacturer's words, the high rpm is a design necessity, not a defect. A slower generator would need a bigger stator and more magnets and copper — heavier and dearer.
      • They start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and make power right across the wind range — just less when the wind is light. What you get depends on your site and how high you mount it.
      • Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
      1. Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

      The Correct Order:

      • 1. Wind Turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
      • 2. Hybrid or Wind Charge Controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
      • 3. Battery Bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
      • 4. Off-Grid Inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.

      Why you Cannot Skip the Battery:

      1. Unstable Voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
      2. Turbine Damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
      1. This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
      • It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
      • Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
      • Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.

    • It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.

      Quick Checks — Tick as You Go

      • Is the Meter Set to AC Volts (V~)?
      • Does it Spin Freely Once Disconnected from the Controller?
      • Is the Cable from the Mast Heavy Enough for the Run?

      1. The Multimeter is Set to DC — The Most Common Mistake.

      1. Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
      • Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).

      2. The Turbine is Stalling Because of a Short.

      1. The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
      • Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.

      3. Voltage Drop from Thin Cable.

      1. Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
      • Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
      • The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
      • A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
      • Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
      • As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
      • Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
      1. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
      • Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
      • It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
      • See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting Guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
      • Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
      • Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
      • Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
      • Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
      • See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.

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