Wind Turbine FAQs

    • Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
    • Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
    • Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
    • Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
    1. The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
    2. Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
    1. No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
    2. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
    • You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
    • The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.

  • Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:

    • 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
    • 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
    • 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
    • When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
    1. If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
    • The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
    • Yes, you need one.
    • Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
    • Why a Horizontal is Louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
    • Why a Vertical is Usually Quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
    1. What we won't Tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
    2. The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
    • On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
    • It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
    • Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
    1. The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
    • A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
    • No — small turbines are built to spin fast. The smaller the rotor, the faster it has to turn to keep its blade tips up with the wind: the M-400's 1.35 m rotor runs at about 800 rpm, the M-600 and M-800 at about 500, the big G-series at 300.
    • In the manufacturer's words, the high rpm is a design necessity, not a defect. A slower generator would need a bigger stator and more magnets and copper — heavier and dearer.
    • They start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and make power right across the wind range — just less when the wind is light. What you get depends on your site and how high you mount it.
    • Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
    1. Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

    The Correct Order:

    • 1. Wind Turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
    • 2. Hybrid or Wind Charge Controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
    • 3. Battery Bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
    • 4. Off-Grid Inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.

    Why you Cannot Skip the Battery:

    1. Unstable Voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
    2. Turbine Damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
    1. This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
    • It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
    • Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
    • Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.

  • It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.

    Quick Checks — Tick as You Go

    • Is the Meter Set to AC Volts (V~)?
    • Does it Spin Freely Once Disconnected from the Controller?
    • Is the Cable from the Mast Heavy Enough for the Run?

    1. The Multimeter is Set to DC — The Most Common Mistake.

    1. Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
    • Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).

    2. The Turbine is Stalling Because of a Short.

    1. The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
    • Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.

    3. Voltage Drop from Thin Cable.

    1. Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
    • Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
    • The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
    • A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
    • Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
    • As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
    • Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
    1. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
    • Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
    • It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
    • See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting Guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
    • Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
    • Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
    • Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
    • Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
    • See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.
1 14

DC Solar Wind Mini Circuit Breaker Overload Protection 6A to 125A

$20.00 AUD
Rated Current
Poles Number

Delivering Outside Australia or New Zealand? Delivery is free. Import duty, customs charges and any tax on arrival are set by your country and are payable by you — we can’t collect them for you.

Ask About This Product

Tracking

Keep an Eye on your Gear

Simply enter the tracking number sent to your email to see exactly where your package is and when it is estimated to arrive.

Note: It may take 24-48 hours for tracking information to update after your order has been dispatched.

Track my Order

Rated IP20. Fine in a Box, Not on a Pole.

A DC fault doesn't put itself out. Mains AC crosses zero a hundred times a second and that snuffs the arc for you, which is why a household breaker can get away with a modest arc chute. A battery bank never crosses zero. Put an AC-only breaker on the DC side of an off-grid system and a hard fault can hold an arc across the contacts until the breaker welds shut and stops being a breaker at all.

This is a DC-rated mini circuit breaker for that job. Twelve current ratings from 6A to 125A, one to four poles, and a rated voltage of 1000V DC, so the same part suits a 12V van fit-out, a 24V shed and a 48V house bank. It goes on the DC side of your system — controller to battery, battery to bus bar, solar array to controller — and gives you a handle you can pull before you put a spanner anywhere near a live terminal.

Where it doesn't suit you: it's IP20, so it needs to live inside an enclosure, not out on the tower. The supplier rates it from -10°C to +40°C, which is under what a black steel box in full sun on the Nullarbor will reach in February. And it is not the part for the three-phase wild AC between a turbine and its controller — that run wants an AC-rated turbine brake or isolator instead.

What it Solves
  • Working on a Live Bank: you can shut down and isolate one leg of the system before you touch a terminal, instead of pulling a lug off under load.
  • Turbine & Solar Sharing a Bank: a breaker on each input means you can drop the solar array out to fault-find the turbine without shutting the whole shed down.
  • Van & Camper Builds: a small rating on the 12V side of a fridge or inverter circuit, so an overload opens a breaker you can reset rather than damaging the cable.
  • Remote Site & Mine Telemetry: a repeater or pump cabinet running off panels needs each circuit broken separately so a tech can work on one without dropping the site.
  • Farm Sheds & Pump Paddocks: long DC runs out to a bore pump want overload protection at the source end, in a board you can label and lock.
Key Features
  • Twelve Current Ratings: 6A, 10A, 16A, 20A, 25A, 32A, 40A, 50A, 63A, 80A, 100A and 125A, so you can size to the circuit rather than round up and lose the protection.
  • One to Four Poles: 1P, 2P, 3P and 4P, so you can break the negative as well as the positive where your design calls for it.
  • 1000V DC Rated: a long way above any 12V, 24V or 48V bank, and high enough to suit a solar string on the array side.
  • C Tripping Curve: tolerates the inrush of a motor or an inverter starting, without sitting through a genuine overload.
  • 10kA Breaking at the Top End: the 80A to 125A ratings are given a 10kA breaking capacity, which is the figure that matters on a big lithium bank with short, fat cables.
  • Backup Fuse Rating: the supplier states it can sit behind a 100A gL fuse where prospective fault current is above 10kA.
  • Tunnel Terminals: the conductor is clamped in a closed tunnel rather than pinched under a screw head, which holds a stranded cable better over heat cycles.
  • Self-Extinguishing Housing: thermoplastic body, impact resistant and self-extinguishing, per the supplier's own data.
  • Selectivity Grade 3: supplier-stated, for coordinating with an upstream device so the nearest breaker opens first.
  • Delivery: Free Standard Delivery, 5 to 10 working days from the day you order. Allow 1–2 days for fulfilment. Regional and remote addresses can take longer.

DC circuit breaker window indicator: with the handle down the window shows green and the circuit is open, with the handle up it shows red and the circuit is closedLabelled diagram of the two-pole DC circuit breaker showing where to read the rated current, breaking capacity, model number, window indication and wiring diagram, plus the operating handle and fastening screwsAngled view of the three-pole 125A DC circuit breaker, its red operating handles ganged together so all three poles break at once

Where This Fits

This is one part of the gear that sits between a wind turbine and your battery bank. Here's the whole picture:

Off-grid wiring layout — vertical axis wind turbine and solar panel into a hybrid MPPT controller, with dump load, main battery circuit breaker, DC bus bar, 12V 24V 48V battery bank and inverter

  • Wind Turbines: vertical and horizontal turbines from 300 W to 5 kW (rated) — and they can charge overnight, when your solar can't.
  • Hybrid MPPT Controllers: you can't wire a turbine straight to a battery. The controller rectifies the output, manages the charge, and brakes the turbine when the bank is full.
  • The Rest of the Electrical Range: bus bars, breakers, isolators, cable, lugs and Anderson plugs.

Every input and output wants a breaker or isolator on it, so you can safely shut down and isolate the turbine before you touch anything. That protects you, and it stops a surge damaging your new turbine or the rest of your power system. Cable sizing depends on your run length, voltage and current — if you're building 12V or 24V, check the sizing against your own run or ask your sparky.

Q & A

What Size Breaker do I Need for my Turbine?

Your electrician sizes it from the current your system actually carries — not from the wattage in a turbine's name. Dividing a turbine's watts by your bank voltage is how people end up sizing breakers off a guess: those watts are made at the rated wind speed in the turbine's spec table. Where the controller's maker publishes a maximum output current, work from that — the WW series prints 21 A, 42 A, 63 A and 105 A. Most hybrid controllers publish none, so your electrician sizes from the measured output. Two limits always apply: the breaker must not be rated above your cable's current rating, and it must not be rated above what your controller's DC output terminals are rated for. The twelve ratings, 6A to 125A, are there so your electrician can pick the one that fits.

Can I Put it on the Wires Between the Turbine and the Controller?

No. That run is three-phase wild AC at a frequency and voltage that both change with wind speed, and this breaker is rated for DC. Use an AC-rated turbine brake switch or isolator there. This one belongs downstream of the controller, on the DC side.

Will it Work on a 12V, 24V or 48V Bank?

Yes. The rated voltage is 1000V DC, so every common off-grid bank voltage is well under it. Voltage is not the limit here — current is, and so is your cable.

Do I Want 1P, 2P, 3P or 4P?

One pole breaks the positive only. Two poles break positive and negative together, which is what most people want on a battery circuit so nothing stays live when the handle is down. Three and four pole versions exist mainly for multi-string solar and for series-connecting poles to lift the DC voltage rating. The supplier does not state whether the 1000V DC figure is per pole or only with poles wired in series, and it does not state whether the breaker is polarity sensitive. If your design depends on either of those, ask your sparky before you order.

Can I Mount it Outside on the Tower or on the Shed Wall?

Not on its own. It's IP20 — that rating is about fingers and solid objects, not water. It needs to go in an enclosure. The supplier's operating range is -10°C to +40°C, so pick a shaded spot with airflow; a sealed dark box in western sun will run hotter than that and a thermal breaker will nuisance-trip when it's warm.

What's the Breaking Capacity?

4.5kA (4,500A) on the 6A to 63A ratings, and 10kA (10,000A) on the 80A to 125A ratings. That step up is not marketing — it's the reason the bigger units exist. Breaking capacity is the fault current the breaker can interrupt and still be a breaker afterwards; go past it and the contacts can weld instead of opening. A large lithium bank with short, fat cables can push well past 4,500A into a dead short, so work out your bank's prospective fault current before you pick a rating rather than sizing on the continuous load alone. If that figure is anywhere near 4.5kA, use an 80A-and-up unit or put a fuse in front — the supplier states a 100A gL backup fuse where prospective fault current is above 10kA. If you're not sure what your bank can deliver, your cell or battery data sheet will give a short-circuit figure, or ask your sparky.

Specs

Specifications Details
Type DC Miniature Circuit Breaker, Overload & Short Circuit Protection
Rated Current (Options Sold) 6A, 10A, 16A, 20A, 25A, 32A, 40A, 50A, 63A, 80A, 100A, 125A
Pole Configurations (Options Sold) 1P, 2P, 3P, 4P
Rated Voltage 1000V DC
Breaking Capacity, 6A to 63A 4,500A (4.5kA)
Breaking Capacity, 80A to 125A 10,000A (10kA)
Tripping Curve C
Maximum Backup Fuse 100A gL, Where Prospective Fault Current is Above 10kA
Selectivity Grade 3
Operating Temperature -10°C to +40°C
Ingress Protection IP20 — Enclosure Required
Terminals Closed Tunnel Terminals
Terminal Cable Capacity (mm²) Not Specified by Supplier
Housing Thermoplastic, Impact Resistant, Self-Extinguishing
Mounting Not Specified by Supplier
Dimensions & Module Width (mm) Not Specified by Supplier
Weight (kg) Not Specified by Supplier
Polarity Sensitivity Not Specified by Supplier
Electrical & Mechanical Life (Operations) Not Specified by Supplier
Standards Claimed by Supplier IEC 60898 and GB 10963 — supplier's claim, no certificate sighted
Australian Approval (RCM, AS/NZS) Not Specified by Supplier

Watch Me

Everything we know about this one is written down: the Specs for the supplier's published figures, and the Q & A for the questions buyers ask before they order.

Payment & Security

Payment Methods

  • American Express
  • Apple Pay
  • Bancontact
  • BLIK
  • Google Pay
  • Mastercard
  • MB WAY
  • PayPal
  • Satispay
  • Visa

Your payment information is processed securely.

We do not store credit card details or have access to your credit card information.

Wind Turbine FAQs

    • Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
    • Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
    • Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
    • Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
    1. The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
    2. Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
    1. No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
    2. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
    • You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
    • The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.

  • Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:

    • 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
    • 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
    • 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
    • When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
    1. If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
    • The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
    • Yes, you need one.
    • Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
    • Why a Horizontal is Louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
    • Why a Vertical is Usually Quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
    1. What we won't Tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
    2. The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
    • On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
    • It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
    • Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
    1. The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
    • A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
    • No — small turbines are built to spin fast. The smaller the rotor, the faster it has to turn to keep its blade tips up with the wind: the M-400's 1.35 m rotor runs at about 800 rpm, the M-600 and M-800 at about 500, the big G-series at 300.
    • In the manufacturer's words, the high rpm is a design necessity, not a defect. A slower generator would need a bigger stator and more magnets and copper — heavier and dearer.
    • They start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and make power right across the wind range — just less when the wind is light. What you get depends on your site and how high you mount it.
    • Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
    1. Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

    The Correct Order:

    • 1. Wind Turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
    • 2. Hybrid or Wind Charge Controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
    • 3. Battery Bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
    • 4. Off-Grid Inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.

    Why you Cannot Skip the Battery:

    1. Unstable Voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
    2. Turbine Damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
    1. This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
    • It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
    • Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
    • Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.

  • It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.

    Quick Checks — Tick as You Go

    • Is the Meter Set to AC Volts (V~)?
    • Does it Spin Freely Once Disconnected from the Controller?
    • Is the Cable from the Mast Heavy Enough for the Run?

    1. The Multimeter is Set to DC — The Most Common Mistake.

    1. Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
    • Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).

    2. The Turbine is Stalling Because of a Short.

    1. The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
    • Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.

    3. Voltage Drop from Thin Cable.

    1. Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
    • Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
    • The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
    • A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
    • Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
    • As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
    • Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
    1. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
    • Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
    • It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
    • See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting Guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
    • Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
    • Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
    • Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
    • Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
    • See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.

You Might Also Need

  • Free Delivery

    Excluding Some Wind Turbines

  • 10–14 Days From Order

    Allow Up to 3 Weeks for Remote Areas

  • Simple & Easy Tracking

    Updates to Your Phone

  • A Real Person Replies

    Covered by Australian Consumer Law

Compare /10