Wind Turbine FAQs

    • Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
    • Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
    • Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
    • Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
    1. The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
    2. Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
    1. No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
    2. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
    • You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
    • The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.
  • Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:

    • 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
    • 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
    • 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
    • When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
    1. If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
    • The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
    • Yes, you need one.
    • Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
    • Why a Horizontal is Louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
    • Why a Vertical is Usually Quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
    1. What we won't Tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
    2. The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
    • On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
    • It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
    • Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
    1. The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
    • A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
    • No — small turbines are built to spin fast. The smaller the rotor, the faster it has to turn to keep its blade tips up with the wind: the M-400's 1.35 m rotor runs at about 800 rpm, the M-600 and M-800 at about 500, the big G-series at 300.
    • In the manufacturer's words, the high rpm is a design necessity, not a defect. A slower generator would need a bigger stator and more magnets and copper — heavier and dearer.
    • They start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and make power right across the wind range — just less when the wind is light. What you get depends on your site and how high you mount it.
    • Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
    1. Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

    The Correct Order:

    • 1. Wind Turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
    • 2. Hybrid or Wind Charge Controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
    • 3. Battery Bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
    • 4. Off-Grid Inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.

    Why you Cannot Skip the Battery:

    1. Unstable Voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
    2. Turbine Damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
    1. This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
    • It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
    • Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
    • Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.
  • It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.

    Quick Checks — Tick as You Go

    • Is the Meter Set to AC Volts (V~)?
    • Does it Spin Freely Once Disconnected from the Controller?
    • Is the Cable from the Mast Heavy Enough for the Run?

    1. The Multimeter is Set to DC — The Most Common Mistake.

    1. Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
    • Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).

    2. The Turbine is Stalling Because of a Short.

    1. The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
    • Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.

    3. Voltage Drop from Thin Cable.

    1. Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
    • Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
    • The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
    • A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
    • Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
    • As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
    • Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
    1. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
    • Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
    • It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
    • See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting Guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
    • Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
    • Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
    • Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
    • Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
    • See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.

Solar Security Camera Wi-Fi Auto Tracking

Regular price $319.99 AUD
Options: 4G 10X Zoom 128G SD Card

Delivering Outside Australia or New Zealand? Delivery is free. Import duty, customs charges and any tax on arrival are set by your country and are payable by you — we can’t collect them for you.

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Eyes on the Yard with No Power Run to it.

The gear that walks is never the gear you are watching. It is the pump at the back gate, the fuel drum behind the shed, the trailer parked up at the block you only get to on weekends. There is no mains out there, no sparky booked, and by the time you notice something is missing the tracks have washed out and you are guessing.

Guessing turns into a police report with nothing in it, an insurer asking for evidence you do not have, and the same thing happening again next month because nobody knows who did it. A camera that needed a cable run was never going to get installed out there, so nothing ever got installed at all.

This one carries its own panel and its own battery. It bolts to a shed wall, a fence post or a pole, the panel goes on its own bracket where the sun is, and a 1.8 m lead joins the two. Four lenses feed three views to the V380 Pro app on your phone — a fixed wide-angle across the top, and three separate motorised heads you drive yourself from the app. A 128 GB card comes in the box, so it records to something from day one.

It is a record and a deterrent. It is not a guard, and it is not a 24-hour DVR — the honest detail on that is in the Limits tab, and it is worth reading before you buy.

What it Does
  • Watches a Site with No Power: the panel and the built-in battery are the whole supply. No trenching, no electrician, no extension lead through the mud.
  • Sweeps Instead of Staring: three separate motorised heads, driven from your phone. The bottom head swings 355° and tilts 100°; the two side heads each swing 270° and tilt 90°.
  • Reads a Plate at the Gate: 10x optical zoom on the app, so you can push in on a vehicle at the far fence instead of squinting at a smear of pixels.
  • Tells the Difference: humanoid detection pings your phone when a person walks in, and you can paint the alarm area on a grid so the driveway triggers it and the tree line does not.
  • Talks Back to the Yard: built-in microphone and speaker, so you can direct a delivery driver or tell someone they are on camera without leaving the ute.
  • Works Where There is No Wi-Fi: the 4G version takes your own SIM and runs off the mobile network. The Wi-Fi version does not — pick the right one for the site.
Key Features
  • Four Lenses, Three Views: a fixed wide-angle lens across the top plus three motorised PTZ heads, shown as three panes at once in the app.
  • Full Motorised Control: pan and tilt are electric on all three heads, and all three hold preset positions you can jump straight to.
  • Two Night Modes: infrared for a black-and-white picture, or white-light LEDs that switch on when something moves and give you colour.
  • 128 GB Card Included: a 128 GB microSD card ships with both versions, and the slot is rated to 128 GB. Cloud storage exists as a paid subscription if you want it.
  • Own Solar Supply: a 235 x 172 mm panel on its own adjustable bracket, joined to the camera by a 1.8 m lead so the panel can sit in sun the camera is not in.
  • Three Power Modes: adaptive, low-power and battery-saving, chosen in the app to trade recording coverage against how long the battery lasts.
  • IP66 Housing: the supplier rates it for dust and heavy rain, and calls it UV-resistant. That is a weather rating, not an immersion rating.
  • Physical Controls on the Body: an off and on switch, a USB-C charging port, a reset button, a TF card slot, and a SIM slot on the 4G version only.
  • Shares to the Household: set it up on one account, then share the camera to other phones by scanning a code.
  • Mounts to What you Have: universal bracket, wall plugs and screws in the box, plus a separate bracket for the panel.

Limits

This is the section most listings for this camera leave out, so read it before you spend the money.

  • It is Not a 24-Hour DVR: the supplier's own panel says continuous recording runs only while the battery is sufficient. Once it drops, the camera falls back to recording on PIR triggers, and lower again it sleeps until you open the app. Anyone selling this as round-the-clock recording is quoting the best case and stopping there.
  • Auto-Tracking is One Lens: the supplier states plainly that only one lens follows a moving target. The other heads stay where you left them. It does not track with all four at once.
  • There is a Blind Spot: the bottom head turns 355°, not a full circle, and the two side heads turn 270°. Nothing sees through the wall it is bolted to. Mount it on the corner, not flat on the middle of a long wall.
  • No Runtime Figure Exists: the supplier does not publish the battery capacity or the panel's wattage, so nobody can honestly tell you how many days it runs without sun. A shaded mount, a run of overcast days or a camera left in continuous recording will flatten it. If you need it up no matter what, run it on mains through the charging port.
  • No Published Night Range: the supplier shows infrared and white-light night vision but states no distance for either. We are not going to print a number we cannot source. Judge it on the sample frames in the gallery.
  • The Wi-Fi Version Has No 4G: it is 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi only, it will not join a 5 GHz network, and its SIM slot does nothing. The 4G version needs a SIM and a data plan you supply, and it needs mobile coverage at the mounting point — not at the house, at the pole.
  • IP66 is Not Immersion: IP66 covers dust and heavy water jets. It is not IP67 or IP68, there is no depth rating, and no certificate has been sighted. Do not submerge it, do not mount it where it will sit under water in a downpour.
  • Resolution is a Total, Not a Stream: the supplier's 20MP figure is the four lenses added together. The per-lens resolution is not published, so treat 20MP as a headline number rather than what any single view records at.
  • It will Not Stop Anyone: a siren and a voice through a speaker move some people on and not others. This gives you a record and a warning. It does not replace a lock, a gate or insurance.

Q & A

Which Version do I Want, 4G or Wi-Fi?

Wi-Fi if the camera will sit inside range of a 2.4 GHz network you control — a shed near the house, a yard behind the workshop. 4G if there is no network out there at all. The two are different hardware: the Wi-Fi one cannot be converted later, so pick on where it is going, not on price. They are the same price anyway.

Does a SIM Card Come with it?

No. The 4G version has the slot and you supply the SIM and the data plan. Check there is usable mobile coverage at the exact spot you are mounting it before you commit to that version — coverage at the house does not mean coverage at the back fence.

Is the Memory Card Included?

Yes. Both versions ship with a 128 GB microSD card, and 128 GB is the largest the slot takes. Cloud storage is offered separately as a paid subscription and is nothing to do with us.

How Long does it Run on the Battery?

We do not know, and we are not going to make a number up. The supplier publishes neither the battery capacity nor the panel wattage. What is published is that the camera manages its own power in three modes and drops to motion-triggered recording as the battery falls. In sun, on the low-power setting, it is designed to look after itself. In continuous recording through a cloudy week, it will not.

Can I Run it Off Mains Instead?

There is a USB-C charging port on the body and an off and on switch beside it. The supplier does not state a charger specification or a continuous-power mode, so treat mains as charging rather than as a documented permanent supply.

How Long will it Take to Arrive?

Allow 5 to 10 working days from the day you order. Allow 1–2 days for fulfilment. Regional and remote addresses can take longer. Free Standard Delivery. If it turns up faulty or not as described, tell us and we will sort it out.

Specs

Specification Detail
Type Solar & Battery Powered Outdoor PTZ Security Camera
Lens Configuration Four lenses, three views — one fixed wide-angle lens plus three motorised PTZ heads
Stated Resolution 20MP total across the four lenses (supplier's figure). Per-lens resolution not specified by supplier
Zoom 10x Optical, Controlled from the App
Pan & Tilt — Bottom Head Pan 0–355°, Tilt 0–100°, Both Electric
Pan & Tilt — Side Heads Pan 270°, Tilt 90° Each, Both Electric
Preset Positions Supported on All Three PTZ Heads
Auto-Tracking One lens only — the supplier states the other heads do not track
Night Vision Infrared and white-light LEDs; white light triggers on movement. Range not specified by supplier
Motion Detection PIR sensor plus app-defined alarm area. Detection range not specified by supplier
Alarm App Notification & Customisable Alarm Sound
Audio Two-Way Intercom, Built-in Microphone & Speaker
Connectivity Two versions: 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi only (no 4G), or 4G mobile with SIM slot. 5 GHz Wi-Fi not supported
SIM Card Slot on the 4G version only. SIM and data plan not supplied
App V380 Pro, iOS & Android
Storage microSD / TF up to 128 GB. A 128 GB card is included with both versions. Cloud storage available as a paid subscription
Power Solar panel plus built-in rechargeable battery, USB-C charging port, off and on switch
Battery Capacity Not Specified by Supplier
Solar Panel Output Not Specified by Supplier
Solar Panel Size 235 x 172 mm
Solar Lead Length 1.8 m Extension Cord
Camera Dimensions 270 mm wide x 250 mm high overall; side PTZ heads 110 x 72 mm; bottom PTZ head 115 mm
Weight Not Specified by Supplier
Housing Material Not Specified by Supplier
Weather Rating IP66 — dust and heavy rain. Not IP67 or IP68, no depth rating, no certificate sighted
Operating Temperature Not Specified by Supplier
Mounting Universal bracket for the camera, separate adjustable bracket for the panel
In the Box Camera, solar panel, panel bracket, universal bracket, 128 GB microSD card, screws and wall plugs, manual
Shipping Free Standard Delivery. Allow 5 to 10 working days from the day you order; allow 1–2 days for fulfilment; regional and remote addresses can take longer

Payment & Security

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Wind Turbine FAQs

    • Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
    • Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
    • Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
    • Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
    1. The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
    2. Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
    1. No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
    2. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
    • You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
    • The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.
  • Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:

    • 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
    • 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
    • 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
    • When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
    1. If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
    • The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
    • Yes, you need one.
    • Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
    • Why a Horizontal is Louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
    • Why a Vertical is Usually Quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
    1. What we won't Tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
    2. The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
    • On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
    • It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
    • Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
    1. The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
    • A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
    • No — small turbines are built to spin fast. The smaller the rotor, the faster it has to turn to keep its blade tips up with the wind: the M-400's 1.35 m rotor runs at about 800 rpm, the M-600 and M-800 at about 500, the big G-series at 300.
    • In the manufacturer's words, the high rpm is a design necessity, not a defect. A slower generator would need a bigger stator and more magnets and copper — heavier and dearer.
    • They start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and make power right across the wind range — just less when the wind is light. What you get depends on your site and how high you mount it.
    • Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
    1. Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

    The Correct Order:

    • 1. Wind Turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
    • 2. Hybrid or Wind Charge Controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
    • 3. Battery Bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
    • 4. Off-Grid Inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.

    Why you Cannot Skip the Battery:

    1. Unstable Voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
    2. Turbine Damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
    1. This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
    • It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
    • Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
    • Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.
  • It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.

    Quick Checks — Tick as You Go

    • Is the Meter Set to AC Volts (V~)?
    • Does it Spin Freely Once Disconnected from the Controller?
    • Is the Cable from the Mast Heavy Enough for the Run?

    1. The Multimeter is Set to DC — The Most Common Mistake.

    1. Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
    • Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).

    2. The Turbine is Stalling Because of a Short.

    1. The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
    • Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.

    3. Voltage Drop from Thin Cable.

    1. Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
    • Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
    • The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
    • A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
    • Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
    • As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
    • Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
    1. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
    • Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
    • It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
    • See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting Guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
    • Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
    • Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
    • Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
    • Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
    • See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.

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