Wind Turbine FAQs

  • Start with two questions: how much wind does your site actually get, and how much room do you have.

    Vertical turbines (X-300, and the H12 and HPRO series) start turning in about 2 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they suit rooftops, suburban blocks and anywhere the wind swirls and shifts. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.

    Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. They scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W — and most of them survive heavier weather.

    Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block. The largest models run at 220 V, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.

    Rated power is measured at 10–12 m/s. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.

  • No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will instantly destroy your equipment. You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.

  • You must match the turbine and its charge controller to the exact voltage of your existing battery bank:

    • 12V: Best for compact mobile setups like caravans, 4WDs, and camper trailers.
    • 24V: Great for medium-sized setups like off-grid sheds, cabins, and motorhomes.
    • 48V: The gold standard for full off-grid home systems. Higher voltage means less energy loss through your wires and allows you to use thinner, safer cables.

  • When your battery bank becomes 100% fully charged, it stops accepting power. If a heavy wind storm hits at night when your batteries are full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will "free-spin" out of control and physically fly apart. The charge controller fixes this by automatically diverting that excess power into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.

  • No, that is the main benefit of the vertical design. A horizontal "propeller" turbine makes a chopping noise as each blade passes the mast. Our verticals — the X-300, H12 and HPRO series — take wind from any direction with no yaw mechanism, and the HPRO series runs on a magnetic-levitation generator, so most of what you hear is the wind itself. They suit suburban blocks, caravan parks and sites close to neighbours.

  • It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start rotating at about 1.5 m/s — a light breeze. Charging starts once the wind clears the cut-in speed of about 3.5 m/s, and output climbs from there — the rated figure is measured at 13 m/s (about 47 km/h). A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries.

  • You should connect the wind turbine to a battery bank first, via a dedicated charge controller, rather than directly to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

    🔋 The Correct Wiring SequenceTo safely capture and use the power, your setup must follow this exact order:

    1. Wind Turbine: Generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC power as wind speeds change.
    2. Hybrid/Wind Charge Controller: Converts the unstable AC power into steady DC power. It also protects the turbine from over-speeding by applying an electronic brake during high winds.
    3. Battery Bank (12V/24V/48V): Acts as a buffer to store the energy. It absorbs sudden power spikes from wind gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
    4. Off-Grid Inverter: Connects to the battery, converting the stored DC battery power into standard AC power for your household appliances.

    ⚠️ Why You Cannot Skip the Battery

    • Unstable Voltage: Wind speeds change second by second. Without a battery to absorb and smooth out these massive fluctuations, a direct-connect inverter would constantly turn off and error out.
    • Turbine Destruction: When a battery is full or disconnected, a wind turbine loses its "load" (resistance). Without that resistance, the blades can spin out of control in high winds and physically destroy the unit. The charge controller uses the battery connection to safely dump excess power and slow the turbine down.

  • Wiring & Installation Requirement: This wind turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, solar controller, or home inverter. To operate safely, it must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load prevents the turbine from over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are fully charged.

  • It is almost always one of three common installation issues. Check them in order:

    1. Your multimeter is set to DC (the most common mistake).

    • The issue: measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts.
    • The reality: wind turbines generate 3-phase AC power directly from the stator.
    • The fix: switch your multimeter to AC volts (V~). Testing these wires on a DC setting gives a false reading near zero.

    2. The turbine is stalling because of a short.

    • The issue: the blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up.
    • The reality: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller’s internal braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
    • The fix: completely disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it suddenly frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.

    3. Voltage drop from thin cables.

    • The issue: thin wire run a long way from the tower to the battery shed.
    • The reality: thin solar or automotive cable over a long run (20 metres or more) loses the power as heat in the wire before it reaches the controller.
    • The fix: use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG.

  • Because the number on the box is a peak rating, not a promise. A turbine’s rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — for these models that is 13 m/s, about 47 km/h — and most sites see far less most of the time. Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second with the wind. That is physics, not a fault.

    Where these turbines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through weather that shuts solar down. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different issue — see the 0 W question below.

  • Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it's rarely a faulty unit. It's usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done. See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting & Installation Guide for the complete walkthrough, or contact us and we'll help you sort it out.

  • Short answer: wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order — battery first, then solar, then wind. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common “spinning but 0 W” problem.

    Correct installation comes down to isolation and the right sequence:

    • Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar
    • Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop
    • Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last

    See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.

1 10

WW Series Pure-Wind MPPT Wind Turbine Controller - 1 kW to 5 kW @48 V

$755.00 AUD
Matched Turbine Size
Monitoring port

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Turbine makes the power. The controller regulates it.

A wind turbine on its own is a wild thing. The voltage on its cable rises and falls with every gust, it will happily overcharge a battery bank on a windy night, and with nothing to load it up in a storm the rotor just keeps accelerating. The controller is the half of the system that does the thinking: it rectifies the turbine's three-phase output, tracks the rotor for the best harvest, holds the battery at a safe charge, burns the surplus in a dump load, and brakes the machine when the wind gets stupid.

The WW series is the heavy-duty end of our controller range — pure-wind MPPT units for 1 kW to 5 kW turbines charging a 48 V battery bank. Four models: the WW10-48-48 (1 kW, step-up input), the WW20-48-48 (2 kW, step-up input), the WW30-48-240 (3 kW, step-down from a 280 V-class turbine) and the WW50-48-240 (5 kW, same step-down input, heavier output stage). Every one ships with its matched dump-load box.

Straight up about the numbers: the 1, 2, 3 and 5 kW in the names are the turbine sizes these controllers are built to sit behind, not power they generate — a controller makes nothing on its own, and what reaches your batteries is whatever the wind gives the turbine. What these units do have, unusually, is a real published output current for every model: 21 A, 42 A, 63 A and 105 A maximum output, straight off the manufacturer's own model pages. Most wind controller listings cannot honestly print that figure. These can.

What It Solves
  • The overcharged bank: the controller holds the 48 V bank inside its charge window, with temperature compensation, instead of letting a windy week cook it.
  • The runaway rotor: manual brake button, over-current dump, over-voltage dump, and optional wind-speed and rotor-speed brake triggers — the turbine gets loaded up and slowed before it damages itself.
  • The wasted gust: MPPT tracking loads the rotor at the point where it actually makes the most power, rather than dragging it or letting it freewheel.
  • The surplus with nowhere to go: a matched dump-load resistor box is included — when the batteries are full the energy goes into heat, not into your battery plates.
  • The mystery box on the wall: an LCD shows what the turbine and battery are doing, RS485 comms are built in, and lightning protection is on board.
Key Features
  • Published output currents: 21 A (WW10), 42 A (WW20), 63 A (WW30), 105 A (WW50) maximum output — real per-model figures from the manufacturer, not numbers derived from wattage.
  • Pure-wind MPPT: built for wind and nothing else. No PV input at all — if you want one box to run panels too, look at the HCM hybrid series instead.
  • Dump-load box included: a separate matched resistor box ships with every controller — 2.8 kg, 9 kg, 13 kg or 19 kg of it depending on model.
  • Layered braking: manual full-dump button (hold 5 seconds), over-current brake, over-voltage brake, plus optional over-wind-speed and over-rotor-speed triggers, all adjustable.
  • High-voltage step-down input: the WW30 and WW50 take a 60–320 V DC wind input, which is how a 220 V-class turbine ends up charging a 48 V bank.
  • Monitoring on board: LCD display, lightning protection, RS485 built in, and a factory-fitted WiFi or RJ45 Ethernet port as an option — one or the other, chosen when you order.
  • Efficiency worth having: ≥92% on the WW10, WW20 and WW30, ≥95% on the WW50, with standby losses under 8 W.
Which Model For Which Turbine

Match the controller to the turbine, not to ambition. The manufacturer's own selection tables pair them this way:

  • WW10-48-48 (1 kW): L1-1000 horizontal, H12-1000 and HPRO-1000 verticals — 48 V-class turbines, step-up input.
  • WW20-48-48 (2 kW): L2-2000 horizontal, H12-2000 and HPRO-2000 verticals — 48 V-class turbines, step-up input.
  • WW30-48-240 (3 kW): L2-2500, L2-3000 and G-3000 — 220 V-class turbines stepped down to the 48 V bank.
  • WW50-48-240 (5 kW): G-5000 — the biggest machine in the range.

Running a turbine that is not on that list? Ask us before you buy. A mismatched controller is the most expensive way to find out what a dump load is for.

What Else You'll Need

A controller is the middle of a system, not the whole of one. Either side of it you need cable sized for the run, breakers and an isolator, and a 48 V battery bank worth protecting. Cable sizing at these currents — up to 105 A on the battery side of the WW50 — is your electrician's call, not a line on a product page. Browse bus bars, breakers and wiring in the Electrical Supplies collection, and the wind turbine range here.

Photos: pick a size and the gallery shows that model’s own controller and dump-load box; the dump load gets bigger as the model does. The other photos show the WW case in general. The WW10-48-48, WW20-48-48, WW30-48-240 or WW50-48-240 you receive is this design, at the sizes in the spec table.

Q & A

Other wind controllers on this site say the charging current is "not specified by supplier". Why does this one print amps?

Because the WW series is the one controller range where the manufacturer publishes a maximum output current for each individual model — 21 A, 42 A, 63 A and 105 A, printed on each unit's own datasheet page. We publish an amp figure when the manufacturer does, and say so plainly when they don't. Size cable and breakers with your electrician from these published figures, never from the wattage in a product title.

Is the cable from the turbine AC or DC?

AC. The turbine generates three-phase AC, and the rectifier inside the controller converts it to DC to charge the battery. A generator is not a battery: the voltage on that cable rises with rotor speed, which is exactly why the WW30 and WW50 are rated to accept up to 320 V on the wind input while feeding a 48 V bank. Cable selection and protection on both sides are your electrician's job.

Can I wire solar panels into it?

No. These are pure-wind controllers with no PV input at all. If you want one box that runs a turbine and a solar array together, that is the HCM wind-solar hybrid series — a different product, also in our controller range.

Will it charge a 12 V or 24 V battery bank?

No. All four models are 48 V battery units. If your bank is not 48 V, this is the wrong controller for it and we would rather say so.

Is the dump load included, and what is it for?

Included — every model ships with its matched external dump-load resistor box. When the batteries are full, or the controller needs to brake the turbine, the energy has to go somewhere: it goes into the resistors as heat. The box gets hot in service by design, so mount it clear of anything that minds.

What is the warranty position?

Twelve months from the manufacturer, on all four models.

How long until it arrives, and what turns up?

Built to order and sea-freighted — allow 4 to 6 weeks (up to 7 for WA and regional addresses). Free Standard Delivery. The WW10 is a 10 kg controller with a 2.8 kg dump-load box (the supplier has not published its carton sizes or gross weight); the WW20 arrives as two cartons (controller and dump-load box, 23 kg the pair); the WW30 and WW50 each arrive as a single wooden crate at 38.6 kg and 46.5 kg respectively — plan for two people or a trolley at the delivery end.

What monitoring does the controller have, and what is not in the box?

Every WW-series controller (WW10 to WW50) has its own display screen and a built-in RS485 port as standard. The manufacturer states the RS485 port is for on-site use with a computer through an RS485-to-USB adapter (any brand; not included). Remote monitoring is a factory-fitted option on every WW-series controller from 1 kW to 5 kW: WiFi, or RJ45 for a cabled router connection — one or the other, chosen when you order, and it cannot be added later. The customer uses a computer app with no account and no ongoing fee; the manufacturer states it can see the controller's data and can adjust its settings remotely, so a settings change does not need a site visit. Ask us before you order and we will price the option for you. The manufacturer also states the controller charges on battery voltage alone, so it works alongside a lithium battery's own management system without a data link. In the box: the manufacturer states the controller ships with its Anderson plugs and the cables to connect the dump load. Not in the box: the battery cables and the turbine-to-controller cable — your electrician supplies those to suit the run, or the manufacturer can supply the turbine cable on request (ask us when you order). The plug rating is not yet specified by the supplier.

Specs

Downloads: WW10-48-48 controller user manual (PDF) · WW20-48-48 controller user manual (PDF) · WW30-48-240 controller user manual (PDF) · WW50-48-240 controller user manual (PDF) · G-series turbine installation instructions (PDF, 18 pages)

All figures below are from the manufacturer's per-model datasheet pages. Where a value differs between models it is shown per column.

Specification WW10-48-48 WW20-48-48 WW30-48-240 WW50-48-240
Controller type Pure-wind MPPT (no PV input at all)
Topology Step-up Step-up Step-down Step-down
Rated input power (matched turbine size) 1 kW 2 kW 3 kW 5 kW
Rated input voltage 48 Vdc 48 Vdc 280 Vdc 280 Vdc
Wind input voltage range 0–64 Vdc; 12 V default start-charge voltage (settable 8–64 V) 12–64 Vdc (model page); the series table prints 0–64 Vdc with a 12 V default start-charge voltage (settable 8–64 V) — both as printed 60–320 Vdc; cut-in 60 Vdc factory setting, adjustable 60–320 Vdc; cut-in 60 Vdc factory setting, adjustable
Rated input current 21 A 42 A 13 A 21 A
Maximum output current (battery side) 21 A 42 A 63 A 105 A
Battery voltage 48 Vdc
Rated output voltage 48 Vdc
Output over-voltage protection Lower limit 56 Vdc factory setting (adjustable 44–64 Vdc); upper limit 60 Vdc factory setting (lower limit +4 V)
Temperature compensation -3 mV/°C/2V
Manual brake Press and hold button for 5 s to fully dump; manual recovery required; three-phase AC short circuit when air switch is closed
Over-current brake 25 A factory setting; adjustable 0–25 A; full dump and recovery after 10 min 50 A factory setting; adjustable 0–50 A; full dump and recovery after 10 min 15 A factory setting; adjustable 0–15 A; full dump and recovery after 10 min 25 A factory setting
Over-voltage brake Controlled by output over-voltage protection Controlled by output over-voltage protection 320 Vdc factory setting; adjustable 220–320 Vdc 320 Vdc factory setting; PWM step-down dump
Optional over-wind-speed brake 18 m/s (64.8 km/h) factory setting; adjustable 0–30 m/s (0–108 km/h); recovery below 15 m/s (54 km/h) after 10 min
Optional over-speed brake 500 rpm factory setting; adjustable 0–1000 rpm; recovery after 10 min
Rectification Uncontrolled rectification
Display LCD
Communications RS485 built in (supplier-confirmed); optional WiFi or RJ45 Ethernet, factory-fitted — one or the other, cannot be added later (manufacturer)
Lightning protection Yes
Efficiency ≥92% ≥92% ≥92% ≥95%
Static loss Less than 2 W Less than 5 W Less than 5 W Less than 6 W (model page); the series continuation prints less than 8 W — both as printed
Working temperature -20°C to +40°C
Working humidity 0–90% RH (non-condensing)
Noise 65 dB or less
Cooling Forced air cooling Forced air cooling Forced air cooling The manufacturer prints both "fan cooling" (model page) and "natural cooling" (series table); we publish as printed. Allow ventilation either way.
Installation Wall-mounted
Protection level IP42 — indoor or sheltered mounting, not weather-exposed
Controller size 300 × 375 × 145 mm 300 × 375 × 145 mm 360 × 440 × 195 mm 360 × 440 × 195 mm
Controller net weight 10 kg 10 kg 15.5 kg 15.5 kg
Dump-load box (included) 360 × 80 × 120 mm, 2.8 kg 300 × 400 × 210 mm, 9 kg 400 × 390 × 210 mm, 13 kg 680 × 390 × 182 mm, 19 kg
Shipping Not specified by supplier 2 cardboard boxes, 495 × 380 × 255 mm each; 23 kg gross 1 wooden crate, 540 × 490 × 565 mm; 38.6 kg gross 1 wooden crate, 820 × 495 × 550 mm; 46.5 kg gross
Warranty 1 year

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Wind Turbine FAQs

  • Start with two questions: how much wind does your site actually get, and how much room do you have.

    Vertical turbines (X-300, and the H12 and HPRO series) start turning in about 2 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they suit rooftops, suburban blocks and anywhere the wind swirls and shifts. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.

    Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. They scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W — and most of them survive heavier weather.

    Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block. The largest models run at 220 V, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.

    Rated power is measured at 10–12 m/s. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.

  • No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will instantly destroy your equipment. You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.

  • You must match the turbine and its charge controller to the exact voltage of your existing battery bank:

    • 12V: Best for compact mobile setups like caravans, 4WDs, and camper trailers.
    • 24V: Great for medium-sized setups like off-grid sheds, cabins, and motorhomes.
    • 48V: The gold standard for full off-grid home systems. Higher voltage means less energy loss through your wires and allows you to use thinner, safer cables.

  • When your battery bank becomes 100% fully charged, it stops accepting power. If a heavy wind storm hits at night when your batteries are full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will "free-spin" out of control and physically fly apart. The charge controller fixes this by automatically diverting that excess power into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.

  • No, that is the main benefit of the vertical design. A horizontal "propeller" turbine makes a chopping noise as each blade passes the mast. Our verticals — the X-300, H12 and HPRO series — take wind from any direction with no yaw mechanism, and the HPRO series runs on a magnetic-levitation generator, so most of what you hear is the wind itself. They suit suburban blocks, caravan parks and sites close to neighbours.

  • It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start rotating at about 1.5 m/s — a light breeze. Charging starts once the wind clears the cut-in speed of about 3.5 m/s, and output climbs from there — the rated figure is measured at 13 m/s (about 47 km/h). A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries.

  • You should connect the wind turbine to a battery bank first, via a dedicated charge controller, rather than directly to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

    🔋 The Correct Wiring SequenceTo safely capture and use the power, your setup must follow this exact order:

    1. Wind Turbine: Generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC power as wind speeds change.
    2. Hybrid/Wind Charge Controller: Converts the unstable AC power into steady DC power. It also protects the turbine from over-speeding by applying an electronic brake during high winds.
    3. Battery Bank (12V/24V/48V): Acts as a buffer to store the energy. It absorbs sudden power spikes from wind gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
    4. Off-Grid Inverter: Connects to the battery, converting the stored DC battery power into standard AC power for your household appliances.

    ⚠️ Why You Cannot Skip the Battery

    • Unstable Voltage: Wind speeds change second by second. Without a battery to absorb and smooth out these massive fluctuations, a direct-connect inverter would constantly turn off and error out.
    • Turbine Destruction: When a battery is full or disconnected, a wind turbine loses its "load" (resistance). Without that resistance, the blades can spin out of control in high winds and physically destroy the unit. The charge controller uses the battery connection to safely dump excess power and slow the turbine down.

  • Wiring & Installation Requirement: This wind turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, solar controller, or home inverter. To operate safely, it must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load prevents the turbine from over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are fully charged.

  • It is almost always one of three common installation issues. Check them in order:

    1. Your multimeter is set to DC (the most common mistake).

    • The issue: measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts.
    • The reality: wind turbines generate 3-phase AC power directly from the stator.
    • The fix: switch your multimeter to AC volts (V~). Testing these wires on a DC setting gives a false reading near zero.

    2. The turbine is stalling because of a short.

    • The issue: the blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up.
    • The reality: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller’s internal braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
    • The fix: completely disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it suddenly frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.

    3. Voltage drop from thin cables.

    • The issue: thin wire run a long way from the tower to the battery shed.
    • The reality: thin solar or automotive cable over a long run (20 metres or more) loses the power as heat in the wire before it reaches the controller.
    • The fix: use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG.

  • Because the number on the box is a peak rating, not a promise. A turbine’s rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — for these models that is 13 m/s, about 47 km/h — and most sites see far less most of the time. Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second with the wind. That is physics, not a fault.

    Where these turbines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through weather that shuts solar down. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different issue — see the 0 W question below.

  • Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it's rarely a faulty unit. It's usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done. See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting & Installation Guide for the complete walkthrough, or contact us and we'll help you sort it out.

  • Short answer: wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order — battery first, then solar, then wind. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common “spinning but 0 W” problem.

    Correct installation comes down to isolation and the right sequence:

    • Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar
    • Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop
    • Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last

    See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.

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