MPPT Wind Solar Hybrid Controller | 1-3kW | BushLine

Wind and solar into one bank, sized to your gear.

A turbine that is spinning with nowhere to send its power is a turbine with nothing holding it back. It runs away with itself in a blow, and what you lose is a set of blades, a bearing, or the whole head off the pole. Same story at the other end of the run: an unregulated charge into a bank you have paid good money for cooks it quietly over a season, and you find out when the lights go dim on the wrong night.

This is the box that sits between the two. Wind on one side, solar on the other, one battery bank in the middle, and a dump load to give the turbine somewhere to push when the bank is full.

It comes in thirteen wind and solar pairs rather than one size, because the two sides of your system are rarely the same size. Pick the pair that covers what you actually own. It will not make you more power than your turbine and panels can produce, and buying a bigger pair than you need does nothing but cost more.

What It Does

Takes both inputs at once: a three-phase wind turbine into the U, V and W terminals and a solar array into PV+ and PV−, charging the one bank from both.
Sets its own system voltage: the case is marked 12V 24V 48V AUTO. You do not choose a voltage at checkout and there is no 12V version and 48V version to get mixed up between.
Gives the turbine somewhere to dump: the D+ and D− terminals feed the dump load resistor, which is the part that loads the turbine up when the batteries are full.
Runs a switched load output: L+ and L− drive a DC load directly, with day and night modes and adjustable timing.
Reports what it is doing: an LCD with four keys on the front, and an RS485 socket for the optional Wi-Fi module if you want it on your phone.

Which Pair Do I Need?

Take your turbine’s rated output for the wind figure, and the total of your panels for the solar figure. Then pick the pair at or above both.

Matched, 2000W and 2000W: the straightforward case. You are building both sides at once, or replacing a controller on a balanced system.
Wind-heavy, 3000W and 1000W: a genuinely windy site. Also the pick if most of your solar already runs through its own controller and only a couple of panels come through this one.
Solar-heavy, 1000W and 3000W: the common one. You have a decent array on the roof already and you are adding a turbine to cover the overnight and winter gap.

Buying a turbine from us instead? Then you do not need to work any of this out. Turbines supplied with a hybrid controller ship one already matched to the turbine, wind and solar both. This listing is for people building or repairing a system around gear they already own.

Not sure which pair? Take the wind and solar figures off your own gear and pick the pair at or above both, then check it against the spec table. Cable and breaker sizing is a separate job: have your electrician size it from the measured output. We would rather you bought the right one than the dearest one.

Key Features

Dual input, one bank: separate wind and solar tracking into a single battery bank, selected as a matched pair at checkout.
Automatic system voltage: marked 12V 24V 48V AUTO on the case and in the supplier’s own images.
Three-phase turbine input: U, V and W terminals, which is what a three-phase wind generator needs.
Dump load supplied: the supplier’s contents list includes the dump load resistor and its mounting bracket.
Battery profiles built in: sealed lead-acid, gel, LiFePO4, ternary lithium and a custom profile where you set each voltage yourself.
Adjustable set points: boost, float, overvoltage and undervoltage thresholds are all settable from the front panel.
LCD and four keys: ENTER, UP, DOWN and ESC, showing battery voltage, wind power and solar power.
RS485 socket: an RJ45 port on the side for the optional Elfin-EW11A Wi-Fi module.
Fanless metal body: sheet metal case with a finned heatsink on the back and no cooling fan to seize up.
Switched DC load output: L+ and L− with day and night modes and adjustable output time.

What Else You’ll Need

A controller on the wall is one part of a system. The rest of it matters just as much, and most of it is cheaper than the mistake it prevents.

A way to disconnect the turbine: a 3-pin Anderson plug from the electrical supplies range lets you unplug the turbine to drop the pole for maintenance, or take the whole lot off the van, without cutting anything.
Breakers and isolators: the supplier’s own wiring diagram puts a breaker on the solar, on the battery, on the load and on the turbine. Four of them, not one.
Bus bars and lugs: good 48V bus bars are genuinely hard to find, and a proper lug beats a twisted strand under a screw every time.
Cable sized for your run: we cannot size this for you from a wattage figure. It depends on run length, system voltage and actual current. The range suits 48V and shorter runs; for 12V and 24V builds check your own sizing or ask your sparky.

Browse the wind turbine electrical supplies collection

Turbine Spinning But Showing 0W?

It is almost never a faulty turbine or controller. Read the 0W troubleshooting and correct installation guide before you assume something is broken.

Q & A

Do I have to choose 12V, 24V or 48V when I order?

No, and this is the single most common way people end up with the wrong item on a controller. There is one unit. The only thing you choose at checkout is the wind and solar wattage pair. The case is marked 12V 24V 48V AUTO and it reads the bank when you connect it. Connect the battery first, before the turbine and before the panels, so it has a bank to read.

Which wind and solar pair should I buy?

Wind figure equals your turbine’s rated output. Solar figure equals the total of the panels coming through this controller. Pick the pair at or above both. Oversizing does not make more power, it just costs more.

Is the dump load resistor included, or do I buy it separately?

Included. The supplier’s contents list is Controller, Dump load, Cable and screws and nuts, one pair of MC4 connectors, MC4 spanner, and the manual. The dump load is the green finned resistor with the metal bracket that you can see in the photographs.

Fit it. It is not an accessory. It is the thing that gives the turbine something to push against once the batteries are full, and a turbine with nowhere to send its power in a strong blow is a turbine that can overspeed. We have not been given the resistor’s resistance or wattage rating.

Will it suit my turbine?

The wind input is three-phase AC, into terminals marked U, V and W. That suits a three-phase wind generator, which is what most small turbines are. If yours puts out DC, or has only two wires, this is not the right controller for it. Ring us with the make and we will tell you straight rather than guess.

What size cable and what size breaker do I need?

We cannot answer that from the wattage on the label, and neither should anyone else. The supplier has not published a maximum charging current for this controller, and cable and breaker sizing is a current job, not a watts job. It also depends on your run length and your system voltage.

Do not work it back from the wattage figure in the variant name. Have your electrician size it from the actual measured output.

What does Pfan mean on the display?

Wind power. The display and the app were translated from Chinese and the word for wind has come out as fan throughout, so Pfan is your turbine’s power and Ppv is your solar. The terminals marked Fan Input and Fan unloading on the supplier’s diagram are the turbine input and the dump load. There is no cooling fan in this unit at all, it is fanless.

Is the Wi-Fi monitoring included?

No. The RS485 socket is built in, but the Wi-Fi module that plugs into it is listed by the supplier as optional and is not in the box. It is an Elfin-EW11A.

Can I run it outside on the pole?

We would not. The supplier has not published an ingress protection rating for this controller, so we are not going to put a number on it. Treat it as an indoor or sealed-enclosure item, mounted somewhere dry with air around the heatsink.

How long will it take to get here?

Allow 10 to 14 days from the day you order, and up to three weeks in the busy periods. Regional and remote runs take longer again. Shipping is free to Australia and New Zealand.

Specs

Type	MPPT wind and solar hybrid charge controller, off-grid. Marked MPPT Wind/Solar hybrid CHARGE CONTROLLER on the case
Configurations	Thirteen wind and solar pairs, from 1000W wind + 1000W solar up to 3000W wind + 3000W solar. Selected at checkout
Maximum wind input	Up to 3000W, depending on the pair you select. Supplier images state Wind: 0 – 3000W
Maximum solar input	Up to 3000W, depending on the pair you select. Supplier images state Solar: 0 – 3000W
System voltage	12V / 24V / 48V, detected automatically. Marked 12V 24V 48V AUTO on the case. Not selected at purchase
Maximum charging current	Not specified by supplier. No rated current figure is published on the product, the packaging or any supplier image. Do not size cable, lugs or breakers from the wattage figure in the variant name. Have your electrician size it from the measured output
Maximum PV open-circuit voltage	Not specified by supplier. Check your array’s Voc against the supplier before you commit to a string layout
Conversion efficiency	Not specified by supplier. No efficiency figure or curve appears on the product or in the supplier images
Wind input type	Three-phase AC, terminals marked U, V and W
Terminals	PV+ · PV− · B+ · B− · L+ · L− on the left block; D+ · U · V · W · D− on the right block, plus an RJ45 RS485 socket
Dump load resistor	Included. Connects to the D+ and D− terminals. Resistance and wattage rating: Not specified by supplier
Battery types	Sealed lead-acid, gel, LiFePO4, ternary lithium (LiNiCoMn), and a custom profile
Default set points, 12V sealed lead-acid	Overvoltage 15.5V · overvoltage recovery 15.0V · boost 14.4V · boost return 13.2V · float 13.8V · float return 13.0V · undervoltage 10.8V · undervoltage recovery 13.1V · boost time 1 hour. All adjustable. Read from the supplier’s app screenshots
Load output	Switched DC output on L+ and L−, with day and night modes and adjustable output time. Rated load current: Not specified by supplier
Display	LCD with four keys: ENTER, UP, DOWN, ESC. Shows battery voltage, wind power (Pfan) and solar power (Ppv)
Communication	RS485 on an RJ45 socket
Wi-Fi module	Optional, not included. Elfin-EW11A, 60 × 25 × 12 mm, 275 mm lead, input 5–36 V DC at 5 W
Protections	Overcharge, over-discharge and overload
Enclosure	Sheet metal body, fanless, with a finned heatsink on the back
Ingress protection rating	Not specified by supplier. Mount it indoors or in a sealed enclosure
Dimensions and weight	Not specified by supplier
Operating temperature	Not specified by supplier
In the box	Controller · dump load resistor · cable, screws and nuts · one pair of MC4 connectors · MC4 spanner · manual. RS485 Wi-Fi module is optional and not included
Markings	CE, FCC, RoHS and ISO 9001 logos appear on the manual cover. No certificate has been sighted and we are not claiming compliance to any standard on the supplier’s behalf
Delivery	10 to 14 days from the day you order, allow up to three weeks. Free shipping to Australia and New Zealand

Where the supplier does not state something, we say so rather than guess.

Wiring

The Terminal Strip

Read straight off the unit. Two green terminal blocks along the bottom, and an RJ45 socket on the right-hand end.

PV+ · PV−	Solar array in
B+ · B−	Battery bank
L+ · L−	Switched DC load out
U · V · W	Wind turbine in, three-phase. Labelled Fan Input on the supplier’s diagram
D+ · D−	Dump load resistor. Labelled Fan unloading on the supplier’s diagram
RS485	RJ45 socket for the optional Wi-Fi module

Order Of Connection

Battery first: the controller reads the bank to set itself to 12V, 24V or 48V. Give it something to read before anything else is live.
Dump load next: D+ and D−. Do this before the turbine, not after.
Then the turbine: U, V and W, with the turbine braked or the pole down while you work.
Then the solar: PV+ and PV−.
A breaker on each leg: the supplier’s own diagram shows a breaker on the solar, the battery, the load and the turbine. The turbine one is three-pole.

The Dump Load Is Not Optional

It comes in the box and it belongs on the wall next to the controller. When the bank is full the turbine still has wind on it, and the dump load is where that energy goes. Leave it off and there is nothing loading the turbine at the top of its range.

Mount it on something that will not mind the heat, give it air, and keep it away from anything that burns. We have not been given its resistance or wattage rating, so do not substitute a different resistor.

Typical Off-Grid Wiring Layout

Off-grid wiring layout: vertical axis wind turbine and solar panel into a hybrid MPPT controller, with dump load, main battery circuit breaker, DC bus bar, 12V 24V 48V battery bank and inverter

This is a wiring summary taken from the supplier’s own diagram and from the markings on the unit. It is not a substitute for the manual in the box, and mains-adjacent or fixed-wiring work is a licensed electrician’s job.

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Wind Turbine FAQs

Summary Checklist for Your Choice
Choose the SR or ST-1200W if you want portability, low noise, and minimal investment for camping or caravans.
Choose the ST-2000, ST-3000, or ST-5000 if you have a stationary house/cabin and want to supplement solar panels at night.
Choose the ST-10kW — the largest turbine we sell — if you have heavy agricultural power needs, acreage, and a budget for proper mast engineering.
The vertical axis wind turbines listed on the BushLine Outdoor Equipment catalogue are categorised by physical design shapes, which dictate their ideal applications.
No.Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will instantly destroy your equipment. Youmustwire the turbine into a dedicatedWind/Solar Hybrid MPPT Controller with an integrated Dump Load Resistor. The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.
You must match the turbine and its hybrid controller to the exact voltage of your existing battery bank:
- 12V: Best for compact mobile setups like caravans, 4WDs, and camper trailers.
- 24V: Great for medium-sized setups like off-grid sheds, cabins, and motorhomes.
- 48V: The gold standard for full off-grid home systems. Higher voltage means less energy loss through your wires and allows you to use thinner, safer cables.
When your battery bank becomes 100% fully charged, it stops accepting power. If a heavy wind storm hits at night when your batteries are full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will "free-spin" out of control and physically fly apart. A hybrid controller fixes this by automatically diverting that excess power into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
No,that is the main benefit of the vertical design. Traditional horizontal "propeller" turbines create a high-pitched, annoying "chopping" noise. Our ST Tulip and Flower series utilise advanced omnidirectional maglev-style bearings, making them virtually silent and completely vibration-free, all you will hear is the wind. They are perfect for suburban blocks, tight caravan parks, and areas close to neighbours.
It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start rotating at about 1.5 m/s — a light breeze. Charging starts once the wind clears the cut-in speed of about 3.5 m/s, and output climbs from there — the rated figure is measured at 13 m/s (about 47 km/h). A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries.
You should connect the wind turbine to a battery bank first, via a dedicated charge controller, rather than directly to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.
🔋 The Correct Wiring SequenceTo safely capture and use the power, your setup must follow this exact order:
1. Wind Turbine: Generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC power as wind speeds change.
2. Hybrid/Wind Charge Controller: Converts the unstable AC power into steady DC power. It also protects the turbine from over-speeding by applying an electronic brake during high winds.
3. Battery Bank (12V/24V/48V): Acts as a buffer to store the energy. It absorbs sudden power spikes from wind gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
4. Off-Grid Inverter: Connects to the battery, converting the stored DC battery power into standard AC power for your household appliances.
⚠️ Why You Cannot Skip the Battery
- Unstable Voltage: Wind speeds change second by second. Without a battery to absorb and smooth out these massive fluctuations, a direct-connect inverter would constantly turn off and error out.
- Turbine Destruction: When a battery is full or disconnected, a wind turbine loses its "load" (resistance). Without that resistance, the blades can spin out of control in high winds and physically destroy the unit. The charge controller uses the battery connection to safely dump excess power and slow the turbine down.
Wiring & Installation Requirement:This wind turbine generates 3-phase AC power andcannotbe connected directly to a battery, solar controller, or home inverter. To operate safely, it must run through a dedicatedWind/Solar Hybrid MPPT Controller with an integrated Dump Load Resistor. The dump load prevents the turbine from over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are fully charged.
It is almost always one of three common installation issues. Check them in order:
1. Your multimeter is set to DC (the most common mistake).
- The issue: measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts.
- The reality: wind turbines generate 3-phase AC power directly from the stator.
- The fix: switch your multimeter to AC volts (V~). Testing these wires on a DC setting gives a false reading near zero.
2. The turbine is stalling because of a short.
- The issue: the blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up.
- The reality: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller’s internal braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
- The fix: completely disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it suddenly frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.
3. Voltage drop from thin cables.
- The issue: thin wire run a long way from the tower to the battery shed.
- The reality: thin solar or automotive cable over a long run (20 metres or more) loses the power as heat in the wire before it reaches the controller.
- The fix: use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG.
Because the number on the box is a peak rating, not a promise. A turbine’s rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — for these models that is 13 m/s, about 47 km/h — and most sites see far less most of the time. Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second with the wind. That is physics, not a fault.
Where these turbines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through weather that shuts solar down. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different issue — see the 0 W question below.
Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it's rarely a faulty unit. It's usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done. See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting & Installation Guide for the complete walkthrough, or contact us and we'll help you sort it out.
Short answer: wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order — battery first, then solar, then wind. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common “spinning but 0 W” problem.
Correct installation comes down to isolation and the right sequence:
- Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar
- Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop
- Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last
See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.

Wind Turbine FAQs

MPPT Wind Solar Hybrid Controller 1kw, 1.5kw, 2kw & 3kw

Tracking

Keep an eye on your gear.

MPPT Wind Solar Hybrid Controller 1kw, 1.5kw, 2kw & 3kw

Wind and solar into one bank, sized to your gear.

What It Does

Which Pair Do I Need?

Key Features

What Else You’ll Need

Turbine Spinning But Showing 0W?

Q & A

Specs

Wiring

The Terminal Strip

Order Of Connection

The Dump Load Is Not Optional

Typical Off-Grid Wiring Layout

Payment & Security

Wind Turbine FAQs

My Cart

MPPT Wind Solar Hybrid Controller 1kw, 1.5kw, 2kw & 3kw

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