G-3000 3kW Heavy-Duty Wind Turbine for Off-Grid Properties

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Twelve quick questions and we'll point you at the two or three turbines in the range that fit your set-up. Nothing to sign up for. If none of them fit, we'll say so. Already know what you want? Skip to the Quote Form.

Step 1 · Your SiteWhere you are and how windy it is

1. Where are you? Your postcode or zip code goes on your quote.

2. Cyclone Region?

3. What's the Site Like?

4. How Windy is it, Honestly? Pick the one closest to your site, then look up your average wind below.

Wind Speed Calculator

Type your town, suburb or postcode / zip and your country — anywhere in the world — then tap Calculate Now.

Wind: NASA POWER 20-year average (2001–2020). Place search: © OpenStreetMap contributors.

How High will you Mount it? 6 m

Average Wind at That Height 22 km/h (6 m/s)

Step 2 · Your Set-UpWhat it powers and where it mounts

5. What are you Powering?

6. Where will it be Mounted?

7. How High can you Get it? Height is what makes a turbine earn its keep — the published figures assume it's up in clean air.

8. Is Space or Looks a Concern? Say yes and, where a vertical turbine comes in the same size as a horizontal one, we'll show you the vertical first. That's about fit and looks, not output — height still decides output for any turbine, because turbulence near buildings eats the wind before the blades see it.

Step 3 · Your PowerHow much you use and your batteries

9. Do you Know How Much Power you Use a Day? Skip it if you don't — most people don't. If you do, it sharpens the size we suggest.

Your Daily Use So Far0 kWh a day

Add what you run. Every figure can be changed — the one on your own appliance’s label or plate beats ours.

A rough guide from typical figures. It works out the energy you use in a day — not what size inverter or battery you need.

Where These Figures Come from

10. What Voltage is your Battery Bank?

11. How Big is the Battery Bank? Make sure you have picked your battery voltage in question 10 first. Rough is fine. The battery is sized to the controller's charging current, not the turbine's peak — so this goes on your quote rather than deciding the turbine.

The Same Sizes in kWh (Often Said as “kW”)
Battery Size	12 V	24 V	48 V
Under 200 Ah	Under 2.4 kWh	Under 4.8 kWh	Under 9.6 kWh
200 to 500 Ah	2.4 to 6 kWh	4.8 to 12 kWh	9.6 to 24 kWh
500 to 1,000 Ah	6 to 12 kWh	12 to 24 kWh	24 to 48 kWh
Over 1,000 Ah	Over 12 kWh	Over 24 kWh	Over 48 kWh

12. Wind on its Own, or Wind and Solar?

You can buy any turbine without using this. It's here to save you buying the wrong one. Want the long version first? Read our Guide to Choosing a Wind Turbine.

Get a Quote for your Set-Up

Tell us what you've got and we'll come back to you by email with the right turbine, controller and delivery to your door. Or email us direct: quotes@bushline.com.au

Your Name

Phone (Optional)

Turbine you're Looking at

Delivery Address

Battery Bank

Solar

Daily Use (If Known)

Mount & Height

Inverter (If Any)

Anything Else — What you're Running, What's Not Working, What you're Not Sure About

Goes straight to us at BushLine. No mailing list, no follow-up calls.

Wind Turbine FAQs

- Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
- Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
- Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
- Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
1. The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
2. Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
1. No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
2. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
- You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
- The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.
Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:
- 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
- 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
- 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
- When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
1. If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
- The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
- Yes, you need one.
- Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
- Why a Horizontal is Louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
- Why a Vertical is Usually Quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
1. What we won't Tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
2. The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
- On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
- It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
- Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
1. The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
- A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
- No — small turbines are built to spin fast. The smaller the rotor, the faster it has to turn to keep its blade tips up with the wind: the M-400's 1.35 m rotor runs at about 800 rpm, the M-600 and M-800 at about 500, the big G-series at 300.
- In the manufacturer's words, the high rpm is a design necessity, not a defect. A slower generator would need a bigger stator and more magnets and copper — heavier and dearer.
- They start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and make power right across the wind range — just less when the wind is light. What you get depends on your site and how high you mount it.
- Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
1. Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.
The Correct Order:
- 1. Wind Turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
- 2. Hybrid or Wind Charge Controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
- 3. Battery Bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
- 4. Off-Grid Inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.
Why you Cannot Skip the Battery:
1. Unstable Voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
2. Turbine Damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
1. This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
- It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
- Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
- Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.
It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.
Quick Checks — Tick as You Go
- Is the Meter Set to AC Volts (V~)?
- Does it Spin Freely Once Disconnected from the Controller?
- Is the Cable from the Mast Heavy Enough for the Run?
1. The Multimeter is Set to DC — The Most Common Mistake.
1. Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
- Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).
2. The Turbine is Stalling Because of a Short.
1. The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
- Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.
3. Voltage Drop from Thin Cable.
1. Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
- Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
- The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
- A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
- Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
- As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
- Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
1. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
- Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
- It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
- See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting Guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
- Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
- Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
- Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
- Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
- See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.

1 8

Property-Scale Power That doesn't Clock Off at Sunset.

A cabin gets by on a few hundred watts. A working property does not. Pumps, a cool room, workshop tools, the house itself — the loads run day and night, and every grey week the generator becomes a daily fixture and the diesel run into town becomes routine. Panels alone can't carry a site like that through winter.

The G-3000 is the smaller of our two G Type heavy-duty machines — 215 kg of die-cast aluminium and steel swinging a 4.8 m three-blade rotor on a dedicated 10–15 m ground mast. It starts turning at 2.5 m/s, begins charging at 3 m/s, and carries the G Type's signature fitting: a mechanical PGJ brake (24 V powered), specified by the manufacturer for harsh, hard-to-service sites. This is not a rooftop unit and never will be.

Straight Up About the Numbers: the 3000 W rating is measured at 10 m/s — a 36 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. On the manufacturer's own curve it makes about 2,880 W at that rated speed and peaks at 3,120 W at 11 m/s. At a good steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s you will see about 1,180 W — working around the clock. This is a big machine and it wants a genuinely open, genuinely windy site to earn its money.

🔋 Needs a Battery Bank: With its controller, this kit charges a 48 V battery bank. It won't feed grid-tied solar with no batteries.

What it Actually Makes

Wind Speed	Feels Like	Output
3 m/s (10.8 km/h)	Cut-in — Just Starting to Turn	0 W
4 m/s (14 km/h)	Light Breeze	210 W
5 m/s (18 km/h)	Flags Start to Lift	450 W
6 m/s (22 km/h)	Steady Inland Breeze	780 W
7 m/s (25 km/h)	Decent Coastal Day	1,180 W
8 m/s (29 km/h)	Good Working Breeze	1,720 W
9 m/s (32 km/h)	Strong Breeze	2,350 W
10 m/s (36 km/h)	Rated Wind Speed	2,880 W
11 m/s (40 km/h)	Peak Output	3,120 W
12 m/s (43 km/h)	Very Windy	3,070 W
14 m/s (50 km/h)	Near Gale — Output Falls Away	2,350 W
16 m/s (58 km/h)	Gale	1,200 W

That is the manufacturer's own measured curve, and we would rather you saw it before you bought. What the 3,000 W in the Name Means: that is the most this turbine makes, and only in a 36 km/h wind. On a normal breezy day — 7 m/s, about 25 km/h — it makes about 1,180 W. Work out your battery bank and cable from the table above, not from the number in the name.

What it Solves

The Diesel Habit: a property generator that runs every day is fuel hauled, services logged and hours you never get back. Every windy hour is load the genset doesn't carry.
The Grey Winter Week: the fronts that flatten solar for days at a stretch are exactly the weather a 4.8 m rotor works hardest in.
The Night Shift: cool rooms, pumps and house loads pull all night while panels do nothing. Wind charges the bank around the clock.
The Remote Site: telecom bases, island installations and out-stations where a service call is an expedition — which is precisely why the manufacturer fits the serviceable mechanical brake.
The Undersized System: if a small turbine and a few panels never quite carry your site, this is the scale where wind starts doing real work — kilowatts in a working breeze, not watts.

Key Features

Heavy-Duty Build: 215 kg net, die-cast aluminium and steel body, reinforced FRP blades on a 4.8 m three-blade rotor.
Mechanical PGJ Brake: the fitted overspeed brake is the mechanical PGJ unit (24 V powered), confirmed by the manufacturer — specified for harsh, hard-to-service sites.
Starts Early for its Size: turning at 2.5 m/s, charging from 3 m/s (10.8 km/h).
Built to Survive 50 m/s: that is 180 km/h. If your site sees worse than that, this is the wrong machine for it and we would rather say so.
Permanent Magnet Generator: 3-phase AC synchronous with NdFeB magnets, IP54 protection — no brushes to wear, no exciter current to waste.
Ground-Mast Machine, Full Stop: 10–15 m dedicated mast. Not a rooftop unit — at this weight it has no business on a building.
Controller with Published Amps: the matched WW-series controller is one of the few in the range with a real, manufacturer-printed output current figure — 63 A.

Kit, or Turbine Only

The kit pairs the turbine with the manufacturer's matched controller: the WW30-48-240, a heavy-duty pure-wind MPPT unit that ships in its own wooden crate with the dump-load box included. It rectifies the turbine's three-phase output and steps it down to charge a 48 V battery bank, with a manual brake button, lightning protection and an LCD display. Pure-wind means exactly that — no PV input at all, and the catalogue lists no wind-solar hybrid option for this turbine. If your plan needs solar on the same controller, this machine does not have that option and we would rather tell you now.

Sourcing your own controller rated for a 3 kW, 220 V machine? Pick Turbine Only.

What Else you'll Need

A turbine on a pole is half a system. The other half is a 10–15 m mast in clean air with proper footings, cable sized for the run, breakers and an isolator, a dump load (included with the kit controller) and a battery bank to feed. Cable sizing depends on run length, voltage and current — that is your electrician's call, not a line on a product page. Browse bus bars, breakers and wiring in the Electrical Supplies collection, and the full controller range here.

Representative photos: the manufacturer supplies one set of photographs per turbine family, not per model. The G-3000 you receive is this design, at the sizes in the spec table.

Limits

The rated figure needs a 36 km/h wind. 3,000 W is measured at 10 m/s. On the manufacturer's own curve a working breeze of 5 to 7 m/s gives about 450 to 1,180 W. The output table on this page is the honest planning number.

It is not 24/7 power. Wind supplements solar, it does not replace it. It makes power when the wind blows and none when it drops, so keep your panels and size the battery bank properly.

Ground mast only. A dedicated 10 to 15 m mast and nothing else. At 215 kg on a 4.8 m rotor this is not a rooftop unit, and it wants open ground and proper footings.

Survival is 50 m/s (180 km/h). If your site regularly sees worse than that, this is the wrong machine for it, and we would rather say so than sell it to you.

It is not plug-and-play. Professional installation by a licensed electrician is a warranty condition — keep the invoice. The manufacturer also treats blade damage from consistently extreme wind, and motor burnout after prolonged high-speed running, as case-by-case assessments rather than automatic cover.

The price excludes freight. This machine is quoted to your exact address before you order — send us your postcode and nearest town and we come back with a delivered price.

Q & A

Will it Really Make 3000 Watts?

At its rated 10 m/s — a 36 km/h wind — the manufacturer's curve shows about 2,880 W, peaking at 3,120 W at 11 m/s. On a typical usable breeze of 5 to 8 m/s you will see roughly 450 to 1,720 W, all day and all night. Work out what you will actually get from the output table above, not from the number in the product name.

Can I Run Solar Panels into the Kit Controller?

No. The WW30-48-240 is a pure-wind MPPT unit with no PV input at all, and the manufacturer's catalogue lists no wind-solar hybrid controller for this turbine. Solar on the same site needs its own charge controller running alongside — talk to us before you order and we will say plainly whether this machine fits your plan.

What Charging Current does the Kit Controller Deliver?

This is one of the few controllers in the range with a real published figure: maximum output current 63 A into the 48 V bank, printed by the manufacturer for this exact model. Be careful with the other number on its sheet — the 13 A rated input current sits on the 280 V DC side of the converter, and input and output currents must never be mixed up. Cable and breaker sizing is still your electrician's job.

Is the Cable from the Turbine AC or DC?

AC. The turbine generates 3-phase AC at a nominal 220 V, rising to 242 V maximum, and the controller rectifies it to DC before stepping it down to charge the battery. A generator is not a battery: the voltage on that cable rises with rotor speed, which is exactly why the matched controller accepts 60 to 320 V DC on its wind side. Cable selection and protection at these voltages are strictly your electrician's job.

Why does a 220 V Turbine Charge a 48 V Battery Bank?

Because the matched controller is a step-down MPPT: high voltage from the turbine side is converted down to battery voltage, which keeps the current in the long mast cable low. On paper the pairing lines up — the turbine tops out at 242 V and the controller's wind side is rated 280 V DC — and it is the manufacturer's own catalogue pairing. We have still asked the factory to confirm the combination in writing, because their page prints the two voltages side by side without explaining it. When their answer lands, it goes here.

Can I Mount it on the Roof?

No. The manufacturer specifies a dedicated ground mast of 10 to 15 m, and nothing else. A 215 kg machine with a 4.8 m rotor has no business on a building — if a rooftop turbine is what your site needs, look at the smaller horizontals in our range instead.

What Happens to it in a Storm?

The mechanical PGJ brake handles overspeed, the controller adds over-current protection with its dump load, and the machine is built to survive 50 m/s (180 km/h). If your site regularly sees more than that, do not put this turbine on it.

What is the Warranty Position?

Twelve months. Professional installation by a licensed electrician is a condition of it — keep the electrician's invoice with your paperwork. Be aware the manufacturer treats blade damage from consistently extreme wind, and motor burnout after prolonged high-speed running, as case-by-case assessments rather than automatic cover.

How Long Until it Arrives?

Built to order and sea-freighted — allow 4 to 6 weeks (up to 7 for WA and regional addresses). Delivery is quoted to your exact location before you order — use the Delivery & Price Calculator above, or call 0400 333 898, or email support@bushline.com.au with your postcode and nearest town for a delivered price. The turbine arrives as two packages — a nacelle crate and a 2.6 m blade-and-mast crate, 250 kg gross between them — so plan for machinery assistance at your end, not a hand unload. The kit adds the controller's own wooden crate (38.6 kg) with the dump-load box inside.

Not Sure This is the Right Turbine?

Read Choosing a Wind Turbine first. It covers which size suits your site and battery bank, vertical or horizontal, what wind will and will not do, and the parts you need around it.

What Monitoring does the Controller Have, and What is Not in the Box?

The WW30-48-240 controller has its own display screen and a built-in RS485 port as standard. The manufacturer states the RS485 port is for on-site use with a computer through an RS485-to-USB adapter (any brand; not included). Remote monitoring is a factory-fitted option on every WW-series controller from 1 kW to 5 kW: WiFi, or RJ45 for a cabled router connection — one or the other, chosen when you order, and it cannot be added later. The customer uses a computer app with no account and no ongoing fee; the manufacturer states it can see the controller's data and can adjust its settings remotely, so a settings change does not need a site visit. Ask us before you order and we will price the option for you. The manufacturer also states the controller charges on battery voltage alone, so it works alongside a lithium battery's own management system without a data link. In the box: the manufacturer states the controller ships with its Anderson plugs and the cables to connect the dump load. Not in the box: the battery cables and the turbine-to-controller cable — your electrician supplies those to suit the run, or the manufacturer can supply the turbine cable on request (ask us when you order). The plug rating is not yet specified by the supplier.

Specs

Downloads: G-series turbine installation instructions (PDF, 18 pages) · WW30-48-240 controller user manual (PDF)

Specification	Detail
Rated Power	3000 W at 10 m/s (36 km/h)
Maximum Power Output	3,120 W
Rated Voltage	220 V
Maximum Voltage Output	242 V
Start-Up Wind Speed	2.5 m/s (9 km/h)
Cut-in Wind Speed	3 m/s (10.8 km/h)
Rated Wind Speed	10 m/s (36 km/h)
Survival / Safe Wind Speed	≤50 m/s (≤180 km/h)
Wind Wheel / Rotor Diameter	4.8 m (4800 mm)
Blade Length	2.3 m (2300 mm)
Number of Blades	3
Blade Material	Reinforced FRP
Body Material	Die-Cast Aluminium + Steel
Magnet Material	NdFeB
Generator Type	3-Phase AC Permanent Magnet Synchronous Generator
Generator Speed	300 rpm
Over-Speed Protection	Mechanical Brake (PGJ, 24 V Powered) — Manufacturer-Confirmed Fitted Brake
Overload Protection	Controller Over-Current Protection + Dump Load
Wind Direction Adjustment	Auto Yaw
Generator Protection Grade	IP54
Working Temperature	-20°C to +50°C
Working Humidity	0-90% RH (Non-Condensing)
Mount Height	Ground mast only: 10–15 m. Not a rooftop unit.
Design Life	≥20 Years
Warranty	1 Year
Colour	White
Net Weight	215 kg
Gross Weight	250 kg
Packing Size	950 × 520 × 600 mm + 2600 × 300 × 380 mm (two packages)
Certification	CE marked to the Low Voltage Directive 2014/35/EU, EMC Directive 2014/30/EU and Machinery Directive 2006/42/EC. Tested to EN 61400-2 (small wind turbines), EN ISO 12100 and EN 60204-1. CE is a European mark and carries no legal standing in Australia.

G-3000 power curve chart: output in watts against wind speed, about 2,880 W at the 10 m/s rated speed and peaking at 3,120 W at 11 m/s

The Kit Controller

WW-series pure-wind controller in its blue wall-mount cabinet, showing the battery, dump load, wind input and brake-breaker terminals - representative series photo

Specification	WW30-48-240 (Kit Controller)
Controller Type	Pure-Wind MPPT (No PV Input at All)
Topology	Step-Down
Rated Input Power	3 kW
Rated Input Voltage	280 V DC
Wind Input Voltage Range	60–320 V DC; cut-in voltage factory-set at 60 V DC, adjustable
Rated Input Current	13 A (wind side — do not confuse with the battery-side output current)
Maximum Output Current	63 A (battery side, published by the manufacturer for this model)
Battery Voltage	48 V DC
Over-Current Brake	15 A factory setting; adjustable 0–15 A; full dump, recovery after 10 min
Manual Brake	Press and hold for 5 s to fully dump; manual recovery required
Optional Over-Wind-Speed Brake	18 m/s (64.8 km/h) factory setting; adjustable 0–30 m/s; recovers below 15 m/s after 10 min
Display	LCD
Communications	RS485 built in; optional WiFi or RJ45 Ethernet, factory-fitted — one or the other
Lightning Protection	Yes
Efficiency	≥92%
Static Loss	Less than 5 W
Working Temperature	-20°C to +40°C
Working Humidity	0–90% RH (Non-Condensing)
Noise	≤65 dB
Cooling	Forced Air Cooling
Installation	Wall-Mounted
Protection Level	IP42
Controller Size / Weight	360 × 440 × 195 mm; 15.5 kg
Dump-Load Box	Included — 400 × 390 × 210 mm, 13 kg
Packing	1 wooden crate, 540 × 490 × 565 mm; 38.6 kg gross
Warranty	1 Year

One thing to know about this model's paperwork: the manufacturer publishes no series parameter page for the 3 kW unit — every figure above comes from the model's own dedicated catalogue page. Where the range's smaller controllers leave the charging current unpublished, this one prints it: 63 A maximum output. We publish it exactly as printed and nothing here has been derived or calculated.

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Wind Turbine FAQs

- Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
- Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
- Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
- Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
1. The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
2. Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
1. No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
2. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
- You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
- The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.
Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:
- 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
- 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
- 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
- When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
1. If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
- The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
- Yes, you need one.
- Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
- Why a Horizontal is Louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
- Why a Vertical is Usually Quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
1. What we won't Tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
2. The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
- On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
- It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
- Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
1. The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
- A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
- No — small turbines are built to spin fast. The smaller the rotor, the faster it has to turn to keep its blade tips up with the wind: the M-400's 1.35 m rotor runs at about 800 rpm, the M-600 and M-800 at about 500, the big G-series at 300.
- In the manufacturer's words, the high rpm is a design necessity, not a defect. A slower generator would need a bigger stator and more magnets and copper — heavier and dearer.
- They start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and make power right across the wind range — just less when the wind is light. What you get depends on your site and how high you mount it.
- Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
1. Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.
The Correct Order:
- 1. Wind Turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
- 2. Hybrid or Wind Charge Controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
- 3. Battery Bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
- 4. Off-Grid Inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.
Why you Cannot Skip the Battery:
1. Unstable Voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
2. Turbine Damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
1. This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
- It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
- Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
- Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.
It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.
Quick Checks — Tick as You Go
- Is the Meter Set to AC Volts (V~)?
- Does it Spin Freely Once Disconnected from the Controller?
- Is the Cable from the Mast Heavy Enough for the Run?
1. The Multimeter is Set to DC — The Most Common Mistake.
1. Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
- Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).
2. The Turbine is Stalling Because of a Short.
1. The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
- Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.
3. Voltage Drop from Thin Cable.
1. Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
- Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
- The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
- A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
- Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
- As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
- Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
1. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
- Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
- It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
- See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting Guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
- Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
- Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
- Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
- Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
- See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.