Wind Turbine FAQs

    • Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
    • Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
    • Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
    • Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
    1. The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
    2. Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
    1. No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
    2. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
    • You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
    • The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.

  • Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:

    • 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
    • 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
    • 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
    • When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
    1. If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
    • The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
    • Yes, you need one.
    • Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
    • Why a Horizontal is Louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
    • Why a Vertical is Usually Quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
    1. What we won't Tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
    2. The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
    • On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
    • It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
    • Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
    1. The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
    • A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
    • No — small turbines are built to spin fast. The smaller the rotor, the faster it has to turn to keep its blade tips up with the wind: the M-400's 1.35 m rotor runs at about 800 rpm, the M-600 and M-800 at about 500, the big G-series at 300.
    • In the manufacturer's words, the high rpm is a design necessity, not a defect. A slower generator would need a bigger stator and more magnets and copper — heavier and dearer.
    • They start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and make power right across the wind range — just less when the wind is light. What you get depends on your site and how high you mount it.
    • Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
    1. Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

    The Correct Order:

    • 1. Wind Turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
    • 2. Hybrid or Wind Charge Controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
    • 3. Battery Bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
    • 4. Off-Grid Inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.

    Why you Cannot Skip the Battery:

    1. Unstable Voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
    2. Turbine Damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
    1. This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
    • It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
    • Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
    • Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.

  • It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.

    Quick Checks — Tick as You Go

    • Is the Meter Set to AC Volts (V~)?
    • Does it Spin Freely Once Disconnected from the Controller?
    • Is the Cable from the Mast Heavy Enough for the Run?

    1. The Multimeter is Set to DC — The Most Common Mistake.

    1. Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
    • Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).

    2. The Turbine is Stalling Because of a Short.

    1. The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
    • Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.

    3. Voltage Drop from Thin Cable.

    1. Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
    • Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
    • The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
    • A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
    • Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
    • As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
    • Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
    1. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
    • Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
    • It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
    • See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting Guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
    • Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
    • Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
    • Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
    • Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
    • See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.
1 15

WiFi Weather Station Thermo Barometer Wind

$299.00 AUD
Colour

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The Forecast is 100 Kays Away. Yours isn't.

You're camped up on a river flat, running a farm, or sat on an off-grid block. The forecast on your phone was measured at an airport a hundred kays away, and your ridge, your gully or your bit of coast does its own thing entirely.

So you miss the wind change. The awning is still out, the swag is still on the ground, and the first you know about it is the noise at two in the morning — then you're pegging gear down in the dark with a torch in your teeth. Same story with a spray run you shouldn't have started, or a tank you thought was fuller than it was.

This is a two-part kit. A sensor head bolts to a post, a rail or a pole and reads wind speed, gust, wind direction, rainfall, temperature and humidity where you actually are. It sends that back to the console over a 433 MHz radio link, and the console puts the lot on a colour screen. Hook the console to your Wi-Fi and it pushes the same readings up to Weather Underground and Weathercloud, so you can look at your own block from town.

It tells you what's happening at your place, right now. It isn't a forecasting service, it isn't a calibrated instrument, and nothing about it is fit for aviation, marine or any official use. What it does is stop you guessing.

What it Does
  • Reads your Own Patch: outdoor temperature, humidity, dew point, wind speed, wind gust, wind direction, rainfall and barometric pressure, measured at the post you mounted it on.
  • Watches the Room Too: indoor temperature and humidity on the same screen, along with the date, the time and the moon phase.
  • Shouts Before it Hits: twelve alarm modes, including wind gust, wind average, rate of rainfall and rainfall over 24 hours.
  • Puts it on your Phone: the console uploads over your Wi-Fi to Weather Underground and Weathercloud, so the farm or the weekender is visible from anywhere you've got signal.
  • Runs on Radio, Not Internet: the sensor talks to the console on 433 MHz, so the screen keeps updating when the Wi-Fi is down or was never there in the first place.
Key Features
  • Solar-Assisted Sensor: a small panel on the sensor housing works alongside 3 × AA cells rather than replacing them — batteries aren't included.
  • Louvred Radiation Shield: the thermo-hygrometer sits under a stack of plates so direct sun doesn't cook the temperature reading.
  • Level Bubble on the Foot: a spirit level moulded into the sensor base, because a tilted rain collector reads rubbish.
  • Three Ways to Mount it: on top of a post, on the side of a post or wall, or clamped to a pole.
  • Colour LCD Console: 165 × 135 × 18 mm, with a 138 × 80 mm active screen split into outdoor, wind, pressure and indoor panels.
  • Bench or Wall: two fold-out legs on the back for a desk or a bench, and a keyhole slot for hanging it on a nail.
  • Mains or Cells: a 5 V 500 mA adapter socket, or 3 × AA in the console as a backstop.
  • Metric on the Screen: the console in the supplier's photos reads m/s for wind, hPa for pressure, mm for rain and °C for temperature.
  • Gun Metal Grey: one colourway — a matte dark grey console with a white outdoor sensor head.

Limits

Straight up, here's what it won't do.

  • It is Not a Forecast: the little sun-and-cloud icon on the screen is a rule of thumb off the pressure trend, not a meteorological service. It reports what is happening; it doesn't predict what will.
  • No Accuracy Figure: the supplier prints no tolerance for temperature, humidity, wind or rain anywhere on its artwork, and no test certificate has been sighted. Read it as indicative, not as a reference measurement.
  • Never for Official Use: this is a consumer weather station. Don't use it for aviation, marine forecasting, official reporting or any decision that needs a certified instrument.
  • Radio Range is Line of Sight: the supplier's own panels disagree — one prints up to 100 m, another about 91 m — and both figures assume clear air. Buildings, trees, vehicles and high-voltage lines all cut it down, and it will not reach through a steel shed the way it reaches across a paddock.
  • No UV Number Published: one supplier panel labels a UV and light sensor on the head, two other panels of the same unit label six sensors and no UV, and no console photo shows a UV figure on the screen. We aren't printing a UV reading we can't stand behind.
  • Two Websites, That's it: the only destinations named on the supplier's material are Weather Underground and Weathercloud. No other app, home-automation hub or private server is named anywhere.
  • No Batteries in the Box: the sensor head needs 3 × AA and the console takes 3 × AA as backup, and the artwork states plainly that none are supplied.
  • The Rain Gauge Needs Looking After: the collector has to sit level and stay clear of leaves and grit or the rainfall figure drifts. That's true of every tipping-bucket gauge, not just this one.
  • No Weather Rating Quoted: the sensor head is built to live outside and the photos show it out in the rain, but no IP marking appears on any panel, so we aren't quoting one.

Q & A

Will it Work Out Bush with No Wi-Fi?

Yes, for the part that matters. The sensor head and the console talk to each other on a 433 MHz radio link that has nothing to do with the internet, so the screen keeps updating. What you lose without Wi-Fi is the phone and website side — Weather Underground and Weathercloud both need a connection.

How Far can the Sensor Sit from the Console?

The supplier's panels don't agree with each other: one says up to 100 m, another about 91 m. Both are open-air figures. Through a couple of walls, a steel shed or a line of gums, expect a lot less — and if you're pushing the distance, put the console on the side of the house nearest the sensor.

Does it Come with Batteries or a Plug Pack?

No batteries. The sensor head takes 3 × AA 1.5 V alkaline or lithium cells, the console takes 3 × AA as well, and the supplier's artwork says none are included. The console is specified for a 5 V 500 mA adapter, but whether that adapter is packed in the box is not specified by the supplier.

Can I Feed the Data to my Own Server or Another App?

Not that we can confirm. The only two destinations named on the supplier's material are Weather Underground and Weathercloud. If you're building something custom around a private server or a home-automation hub, work on the basis that this won't feed it.

How Accurate is it?

No tolerance is printed anywhere on the supplier's material — not for temperature, not for humidity, not for wind or rain — and no test certificate has been sighted, so we won't put a plus-or-minus number on this page. What it's good for is trend and comparison at your own place: is the wind building, has the pressure dropped, how much rain went into the gauge overnight.

How Long does Delivery Take?

Allow 5 to 10 working days from the day you order. Allow 1–2 days for fulfilment. Regional and remote runs take longer again. Free Standard Delivery.

Specs

Specification Detail
Console Readouts Outdoor temperature, humidity and dew point; wind speed, gust and direction; barometric pressure; rainfall; moon phase; indoor temperature and humidity; date and time
Outdoor Temperature Range -40 °C to 60 °C
Indoor Temperature Range 2.8 °C to 60 °C
Humidity Range Not Specified by Supplier
Wind Speed Range 0 to 180 km/h (0 to 50 m/s)
Wind Direction 0 to 360 Degrees
Rainfall Range 0 to About 10,000 mm
Barometric Pressure Range 300 to 1100 hPa
Measurement Accuracy Not specified by supplier — no tolerance is printed on any panel and no test certificate has been sighted
UV Index Not specified by supplier — the supplier's own panels contradict each other and no console photo shows a UV readout
Alarm Modes 12
Sensor to Console Link 433 MHz Radio
Sensor to Console Range Supplier panels disagree: one prints up to 100 m, another about 91 m. Line of sight only — buildings, trees, vehicles and high-voltage lines reduce it
Wi-Fi Upload Weather Underground and Weathercloud. Wi-Fi band and range not specified by supplier
Outdoor Sensor Power Built-in solar panel plus 3 × AA 1.5 V alkaline or lithium batteries (not included)
Console Power 5 V 500 mA mains adapter, or 3 × AA 1.5 V alkaline or lithium batteries (not included)
Console Dimensions 165 × 135 × 18 mm
Console Screen, Active Area 138 × 80 mm
Console Mounting Fold-out legs for a bench, or a keyhole slot for wall hanging
Outdoor Sensor Mounting Post Top, Post or Wall Side, or Pole Clamp
Outdoor Sensor Dimensions & Weight Not Specified by Supplier
Ingress Protection Rating Not specified by supplier — no IP marking appears on any panel or photo
Certification Marks Not specified by supplier — no mark appears on any supplier panel and no certificate has been sighted
Packed Contents Not specified by supplier — no packing list appears on any supplier panel
Colour Gun Metal Grey Console, White Outdoor Sensor Head
Brand Marking NicetyMeter, Printed on the Console Front

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Wind Turbine FAQs

    • Start with two questions: how much wind your site actually gets, and how much room you have.
    • Vertical turbines (the X-300, H1000 and H2000) start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and take wind from any direction, so they keep working where the wind swirls and shifts — around buildings, trees and rooflines. They run from 300 W up to 2000 W.
    • Horizontal turbines (M-400, M-600, M-800, and the L1, L2 and G series) want cleaner, steadier wind and a clear run at it. In clean, steady wind a horizontal of the same rating is usually the better harvester, and they scale further — 400 W up to 5000 W.
    • Match the turbine to your battery bank, not to the biggest number. 12 V suits a camper, 4WD or tinnie; 24 V a van, cabin or boat; 48 V a shed or remote block.
    1. The largest models run at mains voltage, and the L2-3000, G-3000 and G-5000 are ground-mount only — they need a 10–15 m mast and are not rooftop units.
    2. Rated power is measured at 10–14 m/s, depending on the model. What you get at your place depends on your wind, your mast height and the season — not on a number on our website.
    1. No. Wind turbines generate "wild" 3-phase AC power that changes voltage constantly with the wind speed.
    2. Connecting it directly to a battery or a standard solar inverter will destroy your equipment.
    • You must wire the turbine into a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor.
    • The controller converts the power to stable DC to charge your batteries safely.

  • Match the turbine and its controller to the voltage of your existing battery bank:

    • 12 V: compact mobile setups — caravans, 4WDs and camper trailers.
    • 24 V: medium setups — off-grid sheds, cabins and motorhomes.
    • 48 V: most of this range, and the sensible choice for a full off-grid system. Higher voltage means less current in the cable, so less loss over a long run and lighter cable.
    • When your battery bank is fully charged it stops accepting power.
    1. If a storm hits at night with the batteries full, a turbine with nowhere to send its power will free-spin out of control and can physically fly apart.
    • The controller prevents that by diverting the excess into the dump load resistor, which burns it off safely as heat and acts as an electronic brake to slow the turbine down.
    • Yes, you need one.
    • Usually quieter, but not silent — no turbine is.
    • Why a Horizontal is Louder: its blade tips travel several times faster than the wind, and blade noise climbs steeply with tip speed. The whoosh rises and falls as each blade comes round — a rhythmic swish that carries through wind noise more than a steady hiss does.
    • Why a Vertical is Usually Quieter: its blades turn more slowly, so there is less of that whoosh.
    1. What we won't Tell you: that it's silent. Every turbine gets louder as the wind picks up. The wind often covers much of it in a strong blow, but a close neighbour can still hear one in light to moderate wind.
    2. The manufacturer publishes no noise figure for the turbines themselves (the "65 dB or less" on some Specs tabs is the controller's), so we don't quote one.
    • On a building, use vibration isolators — a turbine bolted to a structure carries its sound into the rooms — and check your council's rules on noise, height and placement before you order a mast.
    • It will turn, but turning is not charging. The blades start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s (about 7 to 9 km/h) — a light breeze.
    • Charging starts at the cut-in speed: 3 m/s (about 11 km/h) on every model except the X-300, which starts and charges from 2 m/s. Output then climbs steeply with wind speed.
    1. The rated figure is measured much higher — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, a 36 to 50 km/h wind, not a normal afternoon. Each product page's spec table gives that model's own numbers.
    • A gentle breeze keeps the turbine ticking over; it takes real wind to push real power into your batteries. Every horizontal model has its measured power curve published on its product page — work from that, not from the number in the product name.
    • No — small turbines are built to spin fast. The smaller the rotor, the faster it has to turn to keep its blade tips up with the wind: the M-400's 1.35 m rotor runs at about 800 rpm, the M-600 and M-800 at about 500, the big G-series at 300.
    • In the manufacturer's words, the high rpm is a design necessity, not a defect. A slower generator would need a bigger stator and more magnets and copper — heavier and dearer.
    • They start turning at 2 to 2.5 m/s and make power right across the wind range — just less when the wind is light. What you get depends on your site and how high you mount it.
    • Yes — connect the turbine to a battery bank first, through a dedicated charge controller.
    1. Never straight to an inverter. Connecting a wind turbine directly to a standard inverter will damage the equipment or cause the system to fail.

    The Correct Order:

    • 1. Wind Turbine — generates wild, fluctuating 3-phase AC as the wind changes.
    • 2. Hybrid or Wind Charge Controller — converts it to steady DC, and protects the turbine from over-speeding with an electronic brake.
    • 3. Battery Bank (12 V, 24 V or 48 V) — absorbs the gusts and provides a steady source of energy.
    • 4. Off-Grid Inverter — connects to the battery, converting stored DC into AC for your appliances.

    Why you Cannot Skip the Battery:

    1. Unstable Voltage: wind changes second by second. Without a battery to smooth it out, a direct-connected inverter would constantly cut out.
    2. Turbine Damage: when a battery is full or disconnected, the turbine loses its load. Without that resistance the blades can spin out of control in high wind and destroy the unit. The controller uses the battery connection to dump excess power and slow it down.
    1. This turbine generates 3-phase AC power and cannot be connected directly to a battery, a solar controller or a home inverter.
    • It must run through a dedicated wind charge controller (pure-wind or wind-solar hybrid) with a dump-load resistor. The dump load stops the turbine over-speeding and destroying itself in high winds once your batteries are full.
    • Installation and commissioning must be carried out by a suitably qualified and licensed electrician.
    • Cable, breakers, isolators and all protective devices are selected to suit your site and are the electrician's call, not ours.

  • It is almost always one of three installation issues. Check them in order.

    Quick Checks — Tick as You Go

    • Is the Meter Set to AC Volts (V~)?
    • Does it Spin Freely Once Disconnected from the Controller?
    • Is the Cable from the Mast Heavy Enough for the Run?

    1. The Multimeter is Set to DC — The Most Common Mistake.

    1. Measuring the three turbine wires with the meter set to DC volts gives a false reading near zero.
    • Wind turbines generate 3-phase AC directly from the stator. Switch the meter to AC volts (V~).

    2. The Turbine is Stalling Because of a Short.

    1. The blades turn heavily and slowly, or lock up: if any of the three AC output wires touch each other, or the controller's braking diodes have short-circuited, it acts as a magnetic brake — the turbine can never spin fast enough to build voltage.
    • Disconnect the turbine from the controller. If it frees up and spins much faster, the problem is a short in the wiring or a faulty controller.

    3. Voltage Drop from Thin Cable.

    1. Thin solar or automotive cable over 20 metres or more loses the power as heat before it reaches the controller.
    • Use heavy cable between the mast and the controller on long runs — minimum 8 AWG, ideally 6 AWG. Final sizing is your electrician's call.
    • The number in the name is a peak rating, not a promise.
    • A turbine's rated output is measured at a specific wind speed — 10 to 14 m/s depending on the model, which is about 36 to 50 km/h — and most sites see far less than that most of the time.
    • Your display shows what the wind is delivering right now, so it will sit well below the rated figure and move second by second as the wind changes. That is physics, not a fault.
    • As an example, the L2-2500 is rated 2,500 W at 11 m/s. On a decent steady coastal breeze of 7 m/s the manufacturer's own curve gives about 813 W. That is why we publish the full power curve on every horizontal turbine's product page.
    • Where these machines earn their keep is time: they keep charging through the night and through the weather that shuts solar down.
    1. If the display shows 0 W while the blades are spinning, that is a different problem — see the 0 W question.
    • Not necessarily — this is one of the most common questions we get, and it is rarely a faulty unit.
    • It is usually a quick settings check, or (on a first-time install) how the wiring and start-up sequence were done.
    • See our full Wind Turbine 0W Troubleshooting Guide for the complete walkthrough, or the Set-Up Guide — or contact us and we will help you sort it out.
    • Wire your bus bar and breakers before and after the controller, then power up in the right order. Getting the sequence right prevents almost all wiring issues, including the common "spinning but 0 W" problem.
    • Fit a breaker before the controller (turbine/solar side) and after it (battery side), landing on a DC bus bar.
    • Keep the turbine-to-controller cable run to 2–10 metres to limit voltage drop.
    • Power up in this order: battery breaker first, then solar, then wind turbine last.
    • See our full How to Install & Start Up guide for the complete step-by-step walkthrough and wiring diagram.

  • Free Delivery

    Excluding Some Wind Turbines

  • 10–14 Days From Order

    Allow Up to 3 Weeks for Remote Areas

  • Turbines Priced to your Door

    Most by Postcode at Checkout (AU & NZ)

  • A Real Person Replies

    Covered by Australian Consumer Law

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